22 April 2025
La Gomera is one of the smaller islands in the Canaries. It has rugged volcanic mountains, lush greenery, and deep ravines. The island has a mystical feel — it’s much quieter and less touristy than Tenerife or Gran Canaria. It is also where Christopher Columbus stopped in 1492 to stock up before sailing to America.
The day started with an hour long drive to the southern Tenerife port of Los Cristianos. From there, we took the Armas ferry to San Sebastián, the capital of La Gomera. We needed transportation on La Gomera so we ferried the car too.
As you step off the ferry, your eyes are immediately drawn to the dramatic hillside, where the buildings of San Sebastián cling to the steep slopes, stacked one above the other in a cascade of color.
Torre del Conde is a medieval stone tower located in the middle of a quiet park in San Sebastián, surrounded by palm trees. It was built around 1450 by one of the Spanish conquerors who took control of the Canary Islands.
The tower was originally built for defense, but it also symbolized Spanish authority over the local indigenous Guanche people during the early colonization. It’s not huge — around 50 feet high — but it’s very solid, with thick whitewashed stone walls and a simple, almost fortress-like design.
The Monument to the Sacred Heart of Jesus, also known as the Cristo de San Sebastián stands prominently on a hillside offering a commanding view over the town and its harbor.
Quinn, Emily, and Kyle took a more adventurous route today, tackling steep trails and exploring rugged terrain that ranged from moss-draped forests to dry, arid stretches.
Savoring a cold beer, we soaked in the more tranquil side of LaGomera, surrounded by the island’s rugged coastline, with its black-sand beaches, towering cliffs, and stunning views of the Atlantic. After more than three weeks on the move, a quiet afternoon at the beach was the perfect reset.
The ferry schedule cut our day a bit shorter than we would have liked, with boarding starting around 4:30.
We caught the Fred Olsen ferry back to Tenerife — a gentler ride than this morning’s, with the Atlantic offering a calm, mesmerizing view.
A funny thing happened on our way back to Santa Cruz. We had planned to stop for dinner in the seaside village of Candelaria, but while driving on the freeway, we spotted a large fire just off the road. Thick black smoke billowed into the sky, and Quinn guessed they might be burning wooden pallets. Strangely, there didn’t seem to be anyone near the flames. As the scene faded in our rearview mirror, it was hard to make sense of what we’d just witnessed.
We kept going, and after exiting, we got a bit turned around and accidentally drove the wrong way down a one-way street. Strangely enough, that wrong turn led us straight to the seafood market we’d been trying to find.
As it turned out, we landed at a seaside treasure — an unforgettable seafood restaurant with sweeping views of the Atlantic.
The restaurant also functions as a seafood market, offering locally sourced catches prepared with authentic Canarian flair — standout dishes include grilled cuttlefish, Galician-style octopus, and crispy fried moray eel.
There were also a few tasty side dishes and warm, crusty bread. Before long, everyone was happily full on all the deliciousness. Our dining experience was enhanced by the restaurant’s informal setting — plastic chairs and simple tables — which contributed to its charm. It was a relaxed, no-frills atmosphere with stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean.
After dinner, we strolled along the Atlantic … Kyle had dropped us at the door but had to park several blocks away. The stroll afterward was every bit as satisfying as dinner.
Now about that little pallet fire … as we were leaving Candeleria, we noticed it was odd that southbound traffic was stopped and backed-up as far as we could see and there was no traffic going north which is where we were headed.
Apparently, the fire was quite serious, breaking out at a pallet warehouse and quickly escalating. The blaze was intense enough to shut down the freeway in both directions, and firefighters battled the flames throughout the night. We were incredibly lucky to have passed by just as the fire was beginning — before any emergency crews had arrived. Timing was everything; had we left the port just 20 or 30 minutes later, we could have been stuck in a massive traffic jam for hours.
We made it back to our apartment around 10:00 pm, ready to unwind and looking forward to an open, unplanned day tomorrow. There was so much from the day to absorb and reflect on.
So what does an “unplanned” day look like for this group? Stay tuned.
Jane in Spain 