Jon and Ellen rolled in late last night after making the long drive from Dublin — about five hours on the road. It was a late arrival, but so good to see them pull in and know they’d made it safely. Our little Waterville crew is growing!
We started our day at the Cur le Chéile Festival in the nearby village of Caherdaniel. Even the drive there was part of the experience — a beautiful stretch along the coast, winding over the hillsides with spectacular views of the sea and rugged Kerry landscape below. Ireland certainly knows how to make the journey just as memorable as the destination.
Cur le Chéile is an Irish phrase meaning “together” or “coming together.” Pronounced car-la-kill-lay, it is a fitting name for the community festival in Caherdaniel and Castlecove, where locals and visitors come together for traditional music, dancing, food, sheepdog trials, markets, games and other festivities celebrating the culture and community of South Kerry.
Perhaps the spirit of Cur le Chéile is best captured by the old Irish saying, “Ní neart go cur le chéile” — “There is no strength without unity.” In these small Kerry villages, that sense of togetherness is still alive and well.
The Blind Piper Pub, with all its Irish charm, marked the entrance to the heart of the festivities — a perfect welcome to a day of music, community and celebration.
It was a drizzly, gray Irish day, but that didn’t dampen the spirit of the festival. Trailers carrying sheep and cattle rolled in as local farmers arrived with their prized animals, proudly putting them on display for everyone to admire.
It felt wonderfully authentic — a glimpse into the farming traditions that remain such an important part of life in rural Ireland.
Inside the community building, the spirit of a true village market came alive. Tables overflowed with homemade goodies, crafts, jewelry and local creations, while lively chatter filled the room and vendors happily offered samples of their wares. Colorful papier-mâché figures and whimsical decorations hung overhead, adding to the festive, homespun atmosphere. It was the kind of gathering that made you feel like part of the community, even if only for the day.
We regrouped at the Blind Piper for a warm bowl of chowder, some hearty brown bread and a brew. It was the perfect spot to take a break, talk over our plans for the rest of the day and simply slow down and enjoy the moment.
In the meantime, the farmers had packed up their prized animals and the pasture was cleared for one of the day’s highlights — the sheepdog demonstration and trials.
The event began with the farmer explaining the language he uses to communicate with his dogs, Jack and Cap — a series of whistles and voice commands that tell them when to move, turn, slow down, stop, lay down. One dog responds to commands in Irish, while the other works in English.
He explained that the dogs need continuous training to keep their skills sharp. At some point a dog might lose interest in herding … the farmer said his dog Max decided to go into retirement.
To the sheep, the dogs are predators, so the farmer carefully controls their speed and movements to keep the flock from becoming overly stressed. It was impressive to watch the teamwork between farmer and dog, with a simple whistle or word instantly changing the dog’s direction or pace. “That’ll do” is the final command that releases the dog from his shepherding duties.
A nice-sized crowd of locals gathered along the field to watch the trials, cheering on the dogs and their handlers.
During the trials, the dogs were challenged to maneuver the flock through gates and around obstacles, following a set course while their handlers remained largely at a distance. The goal was to move the sheep into a pen.
Well, it was amateur day on the field, and the dogs provided plenty of unexpected entertainment! During one run, a dog sent the sheep straight through the hospitality tent. On another, the dog abandoned the flock altogether to challenge a barking dog in the audience.
Then came another surprise. Max, the farmer’s retired sheepdog, apparently decided he wasn’t quite ready for retirement. He jumped the fence and joined in the action, eager to show the younger dogs how it’s done.
The crowd cheered, laughed and applauded through it all. The afternoon ended with a trophy presentation, but after such a lively and entertaining day, it seemed everyone walked away a winner.
The festivities carried on into the evening, but we made our way back along the coast toward Waterville, with a variety of stops and activities planned to fill out the afternoon.
Just about every evening, someone would build a fire in the fireplace, and it quickly became one of our favorite ways to end the day. We’d gather around the warmth of the fire, sharing stories and laughs, talking about the day’s adventures and making plans for whatever tomorrow might bring. It was a cozy way to wind down after another full day in Ireland.
We even managed to find the Packers – Vikings game on an Irish network. Watching American football in Ireland came with an unexpected bonus — instead of commercials, the broadcast cut to a panel of Irish commentators who filled the breaks with trivia, goofy games, friendly banter and plenty of laughs.
Who needs commercials when you can watch the Irish have a little fun trying to keep a bunch of American football fans entertained? It was the Packers – Vikings rivalry with a decidedly Irish twist — and great craic!
And in the end, that’s what so much of Ireland is about — the craic. Pronounced “crack,” it’s an Irish word for fun, good conversation, lively company and simply enjoying the moment. And there was certainly plenty of craic to go around!
