Our next stop was Knock, one of Ireland’s most important pilgrimage sites. In 1879, fifteen villagers reported seeing an apparition of the Virgin Mary, St. Joseph and St. John the Evangelist beside the parish church. Today, the peaceful shrine draws pilgrims from around the world — a place of faith, hope and quiet reflection.
The Apparition Chapel stands on the very spot where fifteen villagers witnessed the apparition in 1879. Inside, beautiful statues recreate the vision of Mary, St. Joseph and St. John the Evangelist, making it the spiritual heart of the Knock Shrine.
On the backside of the Apparition chapel is the original parish church, St. John the Baptist, which remains an active community church today. This humble little church where the famous apparition occurred is simple — a lovely reminder that the story of Knock began in a very small and ordinary Irish parish.
This original church was also where Theresa’s ancestors once worshiped, making our visit even more meaningful. It was exciting to think that we were walking in their footsteps, standing in the very place where they had gathered, prayed and spent so much of their lives.
One of the more unusual sights at Knock was the long row of holy water taps near the parking area. There are so many because generations of pilgrims have traditionally taken Knock holy water home with them — to bless their homes and share with loved ones.
Another striking sight was the pyramid of blue votive candles tucked inside a small, almost office-like shelter. Pilgrims light the candles as a symbol of prayer — often for a loved one, a special intention, healing or remembrance.
The Basilica of Our Lady, Queen of Ireland, is the centerpiece of the Knock Shrine. Built to accommodate the thousands of pilgrims who come here each year, the vast circular church can seat around 10,000 people.
Inside the vast Basilica, the eye is immediately drawn to the beautiful statue of Our Lady of Knock overlooking the sanctuary. With Mary standing serenely at its heart, the simple, light-filled interior feels surprisingly peaceful and intimate despite the enormous size of the church.
A short walk across the grounds is the Reconciliation Chapel. It has a striking modern design, with a low, circular shape and a simple, peaceful interior. Natural light, warm wood and curved walls create a quiet, intimate atmosphere — a deliberate contrast to the grandeur of the nearby Basilica. It feels like a space designed for privacy, reflection and healing.
We particularly liked the Meditation Beehive, a small stone retreat inspired by the ancient beehive huts once used by Irish monks. Its thick stone walls and simple, rounded interior create a wonderfully quiet, cocoon-like space — a peaceful little sanctuary for sitting, reflecting and simply being still.
We took a walk through the cemetery, wandering among the old headstones and searching for familiar family names. We were able to find the graves of a couple of Theresa’s ancestors. There was something incredibly special about standing there, knowing that generations of her family had lived, worshipped and been laid to rest in this very place.
It had been a wonderfully calm and peaceful Sunday, wandering through the beautiful grounds of Knock, taking time to reflect and simply enjoy the serenity of this special place. After a good deal of walking — and a few memorable discoveries along the way — it was time to get back on the road.
Our next destination was Doolin, a small village on Ireland’s wild west coast famous for its traditional Irish music. After the quiet reflection of Knock, we were ready for a livelier evening filled with good food, a cozy pub and Irish tunes!
From Knock, we had about a two-and-a-half-hour drive south to Doolin, but with scenery like this, we didn’t mind a bit. The road carried us through the beautiful Irish countryside — rolling green fields, stone walls, grazing sheep and tiny villages, with the landscape becoming wilder as we made our way toward the Atlantic coast.
Our stay in Doolin at the Piper’s Rest guesthouse was just a short walk down the road to Doolin’s famous pubs, where traditional Irish music spills out the doors each evening.
That evening we wandered over to McDermott’s, one of Doolin’s traditional pubs, for dinner and a little Irish atmosphere. The shepherd’s pie was warm, hearty and absolutely delicious.
A trio of traditional Irish musicians settled in for the evening, filling the pub with lively tunes and that unmistakable Irish sound. There was no big stage or fancy production, just three musicians playing together while the crowd listened, chatted and tapped their feet. Very authentic.
We ended up sharing a table with a couple from Waterford who were celebrating a birthday. What started as simply finding a place to sit quickly turned into one of those delightful travel moments — good conversation, plenty of laughs and the feeling that we had made new friends for the evening. Between the music, the birthday celebration and their wonderful company, we couldn’t have asked for a better table!
From the peace and reflection of Knock to the music, laughter, and new friends of Doolin, it was a day filled with two very different — and equally wonderful — sides of Ireland.
Tomorrow, we head to the Ring of Kerry and the town of Waterville, which will be our home for a few weeks. Until then, as the Irish say, “May the road rise to meet you.”
Jane in Spain 