Jane in Spain

Today’s journey takes us to the spiritual haven of Chimayo on a 56-mile scenic byway called the ‘High Road to Taos.’ It winds through the Sangre de Christo Mountains between Santa Fe and Taos offering alpine views dotted with centuries-old Spanish villages. We returned on the ‘Low Road’ which is a beautiful drive through valleys as it follows along the Rio Grande.

Chimayo has a history that dates back hundreds of years. One of the well known legends is about dirt that comes with a claim of healing abilities. Whether you’re a believer or not, there’s something about the serenity of small churches that makes them inviting. With its thick adobe walls, two bell towers, and six-foot crucifix, the church is considered a prime example of Spanish colonial architecture. But it’s probably best known for the supposedly curative powers of the “holy dirt” that’s found in a side chapel.

Chimayo legend has it that in 1810 a farmer witnessed light shining from a hillside which was coming from a cross buried in the dirt. After taking the crucifix to a neighboring town, on three separate occasions it went missing, only to be found again in its original location. A chapel was built on that spot and miraculous healings have been attributed to the dirt where the crucifix was found. Now, the church El Santuario de Chimayo is a National Historic Landmark with ‘Holy Dirt’ being sought by thousands of people each year making this site the “Lourdes of North America.”

The Pueblo Indians have inhabited the Chimayo area since the 12th century — long before the initial Spanish conquest of New Mexico. The Pueblo Indians believed that they shared their land with supernatural beings. The natives thought the healing spirits were to be found in the form of hot springs, which ultimately dried up leaving the healing earth. The Pueblo and Tewa used the site of El Santuario de Chimayo for healing long before Spanish occupation.

Supposedly, the small pit of holy dirt is the spot where the crucifix was found and where an ancient pool of mud used by the Indians stored healing powers. Although both the crucifix and the mud have been lost to time, the hole is now filled with Chimayo dirt that has been blessed.

Just a short distance away is the Santo Niño (Holy Child) Chapel, The sign out front instructs you to enter with “the heart of a child” to fully appreciate the chapel. The Holy Child of Atocha is said to roam the hills and valleys, particularly at night, bringing aid and comfort to the needy, and thereby wearing out his shoes.

Photos are not allowed inside the quiet and peaceful chapel. The room down the hall from the chapel is mysterious and endearing at the same time with countless pictures of babies and hundreds of pairs of children’s shoes filling shelves and hanging from the ceiling. The shoes and other offerings have been left for Santo Niño, who is said to be in constant need of new shoes because of his long journeys on foot.

In 1945, US servicemen who survived the Bataan Death March began a tradition of walking to El Santuario to thank Santo Niño de Atocha for “delivering them from evil.” Over 900 New Mexicans from the 200th Coast Artillery died during the Bataan Death march. The tradition of pilgrimages has grown stronger over the years, and now many thousands of people begin or end pilgrimages at El Santuario.

One could spend quite a bit of time wandering the property of El Sanctuario de Chimayo. Pathways lead in various directions and some went down to a pleasant green space filled with beautiful gardens, shrines, grand old trees, a creek and view of the mountains. Over 300,000 people visit this National Historic Landmark each year, many are on pilgrimages.

Perusing these two amazingly ornate adobe churches and their gift shops, could easily fill half a day on their own. But there’s even more to Chimayo, including art galleries, historic weaving shops and chile vendors.

Another gem … just footsteps away from the churches is the El Potrero Trading Post, a family-owned business loaded with local treasures.

The trading post also features Milagros (miracles) small metal religious charms. These charms are often used as offerings and act as good luck charms for pilgrims.

Smells wafting through the post hint at an abundance of chile to choose from; ground, crushed, sundried, red, green, heritage and standard.

The Chimayo chile is sought after for its signature combination of spice and sweetness that is rare in chiles. It is accentuated by a deep richness that some describe as smoky. The demand for Chimayo chile is further boosted by over 300,000 tourists that are drawn to El Santuario de Chimayo each year.

On the road again … After several hours in the Chimayo area, we hit the high road to Taos. Authentic old Spain is evident in the small villages we passed. There were many small galleries, shops and restaurants that appeared to be closed. We either hit the wrong day or the end of the season. Many pueblos and businesses had major festivities over Labor Day weekend which we just missed.

Along the remote areas, we saw signs warning of elk, deer and also cows. You can see hawks and eagles soaring above the mountains.

By mid-afternoon, we stumbled onto a roadside restaurant in the sleepy town of Peñasco. The ‘Sugar Nymphs ’ parking lot was full but starting to empty. At the time, we didn’t realize that most restaurants close at 3:00 pm and reopen around 5:00 pm. I think we were the very last of the lunch crowd.

The Sugar Nymphs tagline is ‘country atmosphere, city cuisine’. Everything is farm-to-table fare and made from scratch.

Enroute back to our Santa Fe rental property, we stopped at Food King to forage for some type of frozen entree and a bag of salad for dinner. It had been a long day and we were ready to kick-back and enjoy a restful evening while digesting the day.

Information taken from, New Mexico by Moon, Zora O’Neill’ Official Visitors Guide, Sante Fe; nps.gov/chimayo; moretimetotravel.com; santafe.org; talesofatelecommuter.com; photosphere.com; slowfoodusa.com

Coming from the Midwest I rarely if ever use the word Pueblo. Arriving in New Mexico for the first time, I discovered that a Pueblo wasn’t exactly what I thought it was … specifically, some type of Adobe building. I needed to do a little research for clarification because it became more confusing as we explored New Mexico.

Pueblo Indians are North American Indian people known for living in permanent settlements called Pueblos. Some of the other tribes were more nomadic and and always on the move. Most Pueblo Indians live in northeastern Arizona and northwestern New Mexico.

Going back a bit in history, the Ancestral Puebloans, also known as the Anasazi, were an ancient Native American culture that spanned the present-day “Four Corners” region which includes southeastern Utah, northeastern Arizona, northwestern New Mexico and southwestern Colorado.

Pueblo is another word for an Indian village. A “reservation” is the same thing except that it is the legal term for land managed by a federally recognized tribe under the US Bureau of Indian Affairs. In New Mexico, most of the reservations are called Pueblos.

Typically, the Pueblo (people) still inhabit their ancestral lands and their culture has not undergone much change.

The word Pueblo is also used to describe housing. Traditional Pueblo architecture is found in the southwest, especially New Mexico. This type of structure is usually made of adobe and has multi-level buildings with rooms that touch each other or share a boundary wall. They have flat roofs supported by wooden beams called vigas which typically protrude beyond the building structure.

Some pueblos were very large with more than 100 rooms. The rooms were built in long rows and could house many families, kind of like an apartment complex. Today, most Pueblo people live in traditional houses in Pueblo villages.

To summarize the Pueblo world … the Pueblo people belong to various Pueblos and lived in Pueblo structures.

In the early years of the current era (1000 CE) the Puebloan people would build their village on a cliff-top Mesa (flat area) for defense purposes. High above the canyon floor, they could watch for raiding parties from the neighboring tribes. Rather than build a wall around their cities, the cliff dwellings relied on a single means of egress, a ladder or rope that could be pulled up in the event of an attack. Their agriculture assets would also be protected high on the cliffs. It is also theorized that this move to the cliffs was done as a way to shelter from wind in the winter and draw heat from the sun.

Archaeological evidence suggests that most of the region inhabited by the Ancestral Pueblo experienced a severe drought that lasted several decades at the end of the 13th century. This in turn made the traditional method of mesa-top farming unsustainable and they were forced to seek wetter areas elsewhere. This move to find more suitable living environments eventually broke the Ancestral Puebloans into the modern Pueblo tribes. **

More about ancient cliff dwellings to come in a future post describing a visit to the Puye Cliff dwelling in the Santa Clara Pueblo.

When arriving in New Mexico, I was also fascinated with a prominent symbol that shows up on many things. It’s a powerful red and yellow graphic which is even seen on the state flag and the license plates on cars.

I learned that the Zia sun symbol is what I had been seeing throughout New Mexico. It represents the four cardinal directions, the four seasons of the year, the four periods of each day (morning, noon, evening and night), and the four seasons of life (childhood, youth, middle age, and old age) The center of the sun symbol stands for life itself.

I also learned that in 1925, the state of Mexico adopted a design for its flag featuring the sun symbol belonging to the Zia people. According to the tribe, the symbol was secret and stolen from the Zia, who lost both ownership and control over it, and were left to contemplate the sun symbol being widely used and sometimes desecrated. It later became public domain, still without consent from the Zia secret society which used it for healing and wellness processes.***

For a first time visitor to New Mexico, there is a lot of history to discover that makes the journey more compelling.

* Taos Pueblo photo taken from Advisory Council on Historic Preservation; Josemaria Toscano, Fotolia.

** Zia information and Zia Pueblo photo taken from an article by Catherine Saez, “Indigenous Knowledge Misappropriation: The Case of the Zia Sun Symbol Explained at WIPO.

*** Information taken from Mesas, Cliffs, and the Ancestral Pueblo by Luke Carothers. Also, csengineermag.com

This week’s adventure led my friend Peggy and me to the enchanting state of New Mexico where stunning landscapes, diverse cultures, authentic art and rich traditions prevail.

There is more than 500 years of Hispanic history in New Mexico which is enough to satisfy my ‘Jane In Spain’ passion for the Spanish culture. It is evident in the cuisine, the missions, the architecture, the churches and the artwork. Combine this with the Native American grandeur which dominates the region –– 23 Indian Tribes and 19 Pueblos — that adds up to an exciting week with countless avenues for exploration.

Our hub city Santa Fe is the capital which sits in the Sangre de Christo foothills. It is the oldest capital city in the United States and it is the country’s first UNESCO-designated Creative City which means it is teeming with artists, writers and musicians. Some are renown like Georgia O’Keeffe and George RR Martin, writer of Game of Thrones and many of the lesser known ones fill the parks and streets of Santa Fe.

Join Peggy and me as we tour, explore, eat and shop our way through Santa Fe and New Mexico.

It’s a Beautiful Day in Santa Fe!

An hour or so from Albuquerque is our rental property nestled in the woods about seven miles south of Santa Fe.

This very charming two-bedroom house features exposed timber ceiling beams and wood floors.

On our first afternoon, we drove to Santa Fe, a city that was founded in 1610. That same year the first church was built and later replaced with a larger adobe church which was destroyed by the Pueblo Indian revolt in 1680. The expelled Spaniards returned and rebuilt the church in 1714. On this same site, the current Cathedral was completed and dedicated in 1887. The Cathedral was elevated to a Basilica by Pope Benedict in 2005.*

* Information taken from the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi website.

And the Tucson adventure continues. Temperatures this weekend were in the high 70s. Full sunshine was a welcome break from the gray and cloudy winter skies of Minnesota. My husband David and I are exploring the area with our favorite snowbirds — John and Vicki.

We’re on the serendipity path and one interesting stop was at a neighborhood church steeped in Spanish Missionary tradition. The neoclassical/Spanish colonial design of this church campus was inviting especially for the curious.

Vicki may know a bargain but I know church pancake breakfasts and this was an exceptional one … blueberry pancakes, scrambled eggs with chorizo, ham or cheese; pork sausage and bacon plus all the accoutrements — for $5. Obviously, with the price of eggs, this was not a fundraiser.

On our way to downtown Tucson, we made a stop at the La Encantada shopping mall for a Fine Arts Festival. This exhibit of local artists and craftsmen was held in the open-air atrium surrounded by beautiful lush greenery and gardens. There were a number of art shows throughout Tucson this weekend. Too many to choose from but this one was on the way.

It was tempting to stop at some of the pop-up exhibits but we stayed focused on exploring downtown. We parked near the historic Congress Hotel which is in the heart of downtown Tucson.

Hotel Congress was built in 1918 and is known for being the site of the capture of gangster/bank robber John Dillinger in 1934. It is a cultural landmark that anchors the downtown area.

As we walked through the hotel it was easy to imagine yesteryear in this classically renovated and updated building. There is a story in every detail as well as in its history.

Onto the streets! Downtown Tucson is filled with countless wall murals, paintings and works of art. There’s something around every corner.

Black Lives Matter Afro: This wall mural is found outdoors on Hotel Congress. Camila Ibarra wanted to make a statement about the pandemic and the Black Lives Matter movement. She completed the mural in two days using her own painting supplies. Hotel Congress provided her with a wall space. She was inspired by a picture of a powerful-looking woman she saw on the internet, but she added her own interpretation.

Jack and Bill: Just around the corner from the Congress Hotel is a mythical “jackalope” (a rabbit with antlers) and its rider, basketball legend and sportscaster Bill Walton. The artist, Tucsonan Ignacio Garcia, says the piece is meant to have a youthful quality and hopes it will impart joy to those who see it.

It imparted great joy for us — David, who is a distant relative of Bill Whalton, has followed his career since before his Boston Celtic days which lead to an MVP award and induction into the Hall of Fame. It was a nice surprise to stumble into this mural.

The Empowered Woman: Another downtown mural by Ignacio Garcia represents female empowerment and the increase in female leaders throughout Tucson. The mural represents strength, leadership, and the beauty of boldness.

Tucson Portrait Project: As we walked through the Fourth Avenue underpass that leads to the historic downtown area, we noticed mosaic panels of black and white mugshot-type photo tiles.

The 4 x 4-inch tiles feature 6,000 black-and-white photographs — a cross section of Tucsonans. Local designers spent six months snapping shots of people at various community events.

The portraits represent a cross section of the City of Tucson in 2010 and will become a historic landmark over the coming decades.

Tranquil Lady: This artwork puts you at ease — that was the intention behind Ignacio Garcia’s mural. The calming colors and woman’s relaxed facial expression are meant to evoke feelings of tranquility and breathing easy.

The Fourth Avenue District: Affectionately known to locals as “Fourth”, this historic district with a hippie vibe offers an array of local artisans and boutiques with curated selections of vintage clothing, jewelry, furniture, artwork, antiques, handcrafted and imported wares, hard-to-find books and anything else you might want to go digging for.

This area has a flavor of its own with cafes, restaurants, thrift shops, bookstores, tattoo parlors and more.

Corbett Brewing — a few blocks off Fourth Avenue is a little gem of a micro-brewery. Josh, the friendly brewmaster was behind the bar during our visit. We discovered that he lived in a little town in northern Minnesota called Pequot Lakes. He’s planning to expand with pizza ovens being installed in the adjoining space. Definitely worth a return visit.

Moai Tiki Head: The stoic Easter Island-ish sculpture has become a fixture at the Polynesian-themed watering hole called, “The Hut”. Standing over 42-ft high, it is believed to be the largest Moai Tiki Head in North America.

Zeppelin & Clue Mural: Featured on the Rialto Theater building, this artwork pays homage to two events — an American tribute to Led Zeppelin and the Rialto’s 9th annual fundraising gala which is themed after the Clue game.

Prince Mural: Being from Minneapolis, this one hits home for me. Located on the side of the Rialto Theatre it honors Prince, who died in 2016.

We looped back to our starting point which led us into the Thunder Canyon Brewery for more artwork and creativity.

Thunder Canyon Brewery — ‘a venue for artists who think like artists’. The word ‘artist’ is all encompassing. The brick walls displayed an assortment of painting by locals, the stage featured a variety of musicians and the Canyon also attracts video game enthusiasts.

What I found most intriguing in this creative venue, was the number of young adults engaged in video games on really old devices. I saw several combination screen and VCR units that looked like what we used on road trips 20 years ago.

One observer told me that the original games were designed during the heyday of these old units and the quality and timing was far superior on the older units than games modified to be used on newer technology. Apparently, these techies meet here routinely to compete bringing their old technology devices with them.

We headed out to the next adventure which was on our ‘must try’ list — the Korean hot dog.

Korean-Style Corn Dogs: these dogs usually have a rice flour batter as opposed to cornmeal batter used in the US. They can be filled with cheese, sausages or other proteins. And finally, Korean street corn dogs are often seen with creative toppings such as fried potatoes, dry ramen noodles or even a sugar coating that plays against the savory and salty filling.

Potato dog is coated with cubed potatoes, Spicy dog is rolled in Hot Cheetos and covered with spicy sauce and Two Hands dog has their signature seasoning covered with ranch dressing.

We checked this one off the bucket list. The final consensus was in favor of the Potato dog but not sure if it can compete with the Sonoran hot dog.

Our festival of artwork did not end in downtown Tucson. Just a short walk from our accommodations is a small gallery with an interesting history and an Arizona vibe.

DeGrazia Gallery in the Sun started as a small construction project in the early 1950s and developed into a 10-acre National Historic District designed and built by acclaimed Arizona artist Ettore “Ted” DeGrazia.

Mission in the Sun sits next to the gallery and was the first building constructed by DeGrazia on the gallery grounds. He built it in honor of Padre Kino and dedicated it to Our Lady of Guadalupe,

Our get-away to Tucson is winding down and it’s almost time to go back to reality. From warm weather, sunny skies, the foothills and cactus …

… to snow, snow and more snow. I’m looking forward to another adventure in Tucson next year.

Mural information and factual details taken from: Visit Tucson, Tucson Topia, Longview News-Journal, Library of Congress, Trip Advisor, Pima County Public Library, Smithsonian, Roadside America, Arizona Daily Star and Route 66 News.

Bright blue sky today and lots of sunshine. Tough deciding what to do this weekend with so many options. After much coffee and tossing suggestions around the final picks are Sabino Canyon, FingerRock Mountain, Gem & Mineral Show and Sonoran hot dogs.

Sabino Canyon is scenic with gentle trails for walkers like me and more challenging opportunities for those who want a more of a work out.

This place has a very relaxing vibe … the warm sunshine, endless diversity of cactus, the rugged hillside and canyons with their dirt trails and a rambling creek. Very peaceful. Cars are allowed only in the parking lot and there is a daily shuttle that goes to various locations in the park which is part of the Coronado National Forest.

Finger Rock Trail is an easily recognized landscape quirk resembling an index finger pointing to the sky above. David took on this challenging trail and took a few photos of the breathtaking views. The trail was breath taking… literally. Very steep with a lot of large rocks to climb up.

As the hike progresses, it gradually gets steeper and rockier and is challenging going up and coming down.

Tucson Gem and Mineral Show: While David climbed FingerRock and John golfed 18 holes, Vicki and I rocked the Gem & Mineral show. Going big, we went to the Kino Sports Complex which resembled a state fair with countless white tents on blacktop reflecting and absorbing the 80 degree heat. It smelled like a carnival with that deep-fried ‘whatever’ smell wafting through the air. We were surprised to find that parking and admission were free but it took us a good half-hour to walk from the car to the entrance.

The annual event is the largest annual gathering anywhere of gem, jade, rock, fossil, jewelry, and bead buyers and sellers from around the world. The gigantic Kino complex is not the only show in town, there are more than 50 different locations throughout the greater Tucson being held concurrently. The show runs for a couple weeks each year.

I haven’t figured out the connection of the goats and the amethyst. I’m sure it’s all good energy and it did attract a lot of attention.

Sonoran Hot Dogs: We needed to try this local delicacy. It consists of a hot dog wrapped in bacon and grilled, served on a bolillo-style hot dog bun, and topped with pinto beans, onions, tomatoes, and a variety of additional condiments, often including mayonnaise, mustard, and jalapeño salsa. It’s an unremarkable set of ingredients that becomes a remarkable taste when it all comes together.

Many vendors sell Sonoran Hot Dogs (also called “dogueros”) from street carts which are randomly found. It took a little research, but we found a little Mexican restaurant with our sought after dogs.

Time to wind down … a nice dip in the pool and hot tub to digest all we’ve experienced and figure out what’s left on the ‘must see’ list.

Minnesota winters merit a getaway to Arizona. On this trip, I’m heading for Tucson with my husband David for a long weekend. We’re flying into Phoenix and driving to Tucson.

Our first stop is about 50 miles south of Phoenix near the Gila River Valley and the town of Coolidge. Here lies one of Arizona’s greatest mysteries — the Casa Grande Ruins National Monument. No one alive now knows what name the people who built the Casa Grande called themselves centuries ago.

Casa Grande Ruins

Archeologists today use the term Hohokam to label the culture that flourished here about 900 years ago. The people who lived here, left suddenly.

These Ancestral People tapped the Gila and Salt rivers with irrigation canals that diverted high water to the floodplains’ rich soil. They grew crops that withstood desert conditions — corn, beans, squash, tobacco, cotton and agave. They gathered wood, fruit, buds and seeds as well as wild plants to be used for medicine. They hunted rabbits, deer and sheep. The rivers provided fish. Saguaro fruits were eaten, dried or made into wine. Their pottery had a distinctive style of red-on-buff patterns.

The Hohokam achieved remarkable success. For over 1,000 years, these people supported themselves with food they grew, hunted or gathered. The system provided for an estimated 80,000 people.

Sometime during the later half of the 14th century, the Hohokam entered a period of social disruption and community disintegration. There appear to be several causes including drought, flooding, and warfare.

This one-square mile park was set aside in 1892 to preserve what remained of an Ancestral Sonoran Desert People’s community and irrigation system.

Archeologists don’t know for sure what the purpose of Casa Grande was. Perhaps the “Great House” was used as a gathering place for desert people. Were sacred rituals held here? Was it an astronomical observatory? It can still be observed that the sun and moon line up with certain holes in the wall. Did a leader who oversaw the irrigation canals work inside these rooms? Did an influential family or clan call the Casa Grande home? The only thing known for sure is that it will remain a mystery forever.

(Information taken from state museum.arizona.edu, arizonaruins.com and National Park Services ‘Casa Grande Ruins’)

Next Stop: Catalina Foothills

Catalina Foothills is a northern suburb of Tucson and situated in the southern foothills of the Santa Catalina Mountains.

We have arrived at our accommodations in a nice little condo community. It’s a great location and very comfortable. I love the pool.

This happens to be the winter nest of our favorite Snowbirds … my brother John and wife Vicki. Their hospitality is unbeatable and they are great tour guides.

Our last full day! We went back to our new favorite snorkeling spot on Galleon Beach.

Mid-morning another Trans-Atlantic row boat entered the harbor. The two-man boat, Tikkurila, finished the 3000 mile trek in just over 51 days. The hoopla begins when they light the flares. The blue boat with the Antiguan flag circles around the rowboat several times and escorts it into Nelson’s Dockyard.

Today I found the most beautiful conch shell. It was perfect. A treasure for sure. I wanted to take it home but the conch was still living in it. Sadly but carefully I dove deep and found it a good home in the grass where it would be safe.

Incidentally, at the airport there’s a conch display of shells removed from carry-on luggage. Conch shells are considered weapons and are compared to brass knuckles. They need to be in checked luggage.

We wanted to check out one more beach on the top ten list — Half Moon Bay on the east coast of Antigua. Snorkeling is suppose to be good but it’s in the Atlantic which could have big waves and rough water. (West coast is the Caribbean). Its’ a beautiful drive.

We drove back to the ridge which is part of the Shirley Heights complex where there are several ruins.

Betty’s Hope

On our way to the airport we made a stop at a historic sugar cane plantation called Betty’s Hope. This is a sugar plantation site where one of the two sugar mill towers has been fully restored complete with sails. Betty’s Hope was one of the earliest sugar plantations.

Windmills were central to the operation of a sugar estate. Betty’s Hope was large and required two mills to process all the cane. With a steady wind and working from sun up to late into the night, each mill could crush 60-70 cartloads of cane or about 2 acres per day.

It was the first large-scale sugar plantation to operate in Antigua and belonged to several generations of the Codrington family from 1674 until 1944. Christopher Codrington acquired the property in 1674 and named it Betty’s Hope, after his daughter.

The Still House held pipes that carried condensed rum from the condensing coil into large tanks for mixing and diluting down to about 60% alcohol, and then into wooden barrels for storage and in some cases to age.

Like other large plantations, Betty’s Hope was an agricultural as well as an industrial enterprise, and home to a large number of people. Supervised by a handful of European managers, hundreds of people of African origin lived out their lives on this and similar plantations, first as slaves, then as labourers after their emancipation in 1834.

Enduring the hardship of cultivating and processing the sugar under exhausting conditions, they developed great skill as craftsmen, boilers and distillers.

Throughout its 300 year history, Betty’s Hope played a prominent role in Antigua and Barbuda history and influenced the lives of many generations of Antiguans. (Information taken from visitantiguabarbuda.com)

Walking through the property we came across a Flamboyant tree. In the spring, it’s covered with dazzling red blooms. In the Summer and fall, the large dark brown pods can’t be missed hanging from the leafless trees. The seeds rattle within and can be used as musical shake-shakes.

The adventures of Jane and Peggy in Antigua & Barbuda are coming to an end.

We had a nice variety of breakfast items bought at yesterday’s public market in Saint John.

We packed up snorkeling gear and headed to Galleon Beach in English Harbor. We’re going to try snorkeling where the security guard suggested.

We were much closer to the reef and the snorkeling was pretty good here. This was my first attempt at underwater photography … just using my i-phone in a water proof case. There was a variety of colored fish but they’re hard to photograph — they move fast and I’m still fumbly with cell phone buttons under water in a case.

While snorkeling, a sport row boat with two women pulled up to our little beach. We chatted for awhile. It was the coach and nurse for the Swiss Trans-Atlantic rowing team. They were getting ready to welcome their team which would be finishing the 3,000 mile trek this afternoon.

The ladies were using an inflatable row boat. They said it folds up small and can be taken on an airplane.

The app for following the Trans-Atlantic competition shows icons of all the boats and their locations. Click on your team’s boat icon and it provides their locations and other data. This lets the family and friends following each team, know when to show up in English Harbor for the grand finale.

A tree on our path had big white soft squishy-gel like fruit. Peggy looked it up and discovered that one of its names is “vomit fruit”. Glad we didn’t smell or touch it. There are over 100 names for this fruit but the scientific name is Morinda Citrifolia more commonly known as Noni and it is a fruit-bearing tree from the coffee family.

Further research showed it is widespread and that the fresh fruit is consumed across the globe. Supplements made from Noni are estimated to bring in millions of dollars annually. Not bad for a fruit that tastes like rotten cheese. Unripe is most tolerable and tastes spicy and grassy with hints of horseradish and Parmesan.

The main reason people opt to eat this fruit is for its purported health benefits. All parts of the plant are used to treat ailments as diverse as toothaches, cancer, attention deficit disorder, bruises and addiction. The majority of the health claims are unproven. (Information taken from atlasobscura.com).

We made a stop at the apartment to de-sand before heading out to Shirley Heights, a much touted Sunday evening event with music and barbecue as well as a great view, especially at sunset.

Shirley Heights

Shirley Heights is located high on a steep hilltop above Galleon beach where we were just snorkeling. It is a restored military lookout named after Sir Thomas Shirley, Governor of the Leeward Islands, who strengthened Antigua’s defenses in 1781.

The iconic view from Shirley Heights includes English Harbor and Falmouth Harbor along with a few beaches and Nelson’s Dockyard.

We arrived early around 3:00 pm. Parking was easy. No lines at the bar or food-ticket line. We could easily walk around and enjoy the views. The music starts at 4:00.

We enjoyed the sounds of the Halcyon Steel Orchestra. This musical ‘family’ has been together for over 50 years and has performed all over the globe. They have an impressive list of awards and have won countless competitions. Their big steel drum sound provides a Caribbean party vibe that gets everyone dancing.

By 5:30, the place is packed shoulder-to-shoulder. Many gather at the point to watch and take photos of the sunset.

According to Visit Antigua and Barbuda tourism authority, if you watch closely for that split second as the sun sets behind the ocean, you may see at that moment a green jet of light that covers the horizon known as the Green Flash and is something that only the luckiest viewers and photographers have ever managed to capture on camera or in their memories.

Now it’s hard to maneuver around the crowd. Lines at the bars are ten deep with party-goers ordering trays of rum punch for their tables. There’s even longer lines for food tickets and the buffet where the portions are generous.

The Halcyon Steel Orchestra wrapped up about an hour after sunset. The next performers had a calypso sound … and the party goes on until the late hours.

Today’s route does a little zig zag around the center of the island.

We started our route around 8:00 am. First stop is the Saturday public market at Saint Johns.

Today’s Driving Dilemma: Everything was going great until I came upon a row of parked cars. I followed a motorcycle around them and to my horror after passing about 10 cars, I discovered that they were not parked — the drivers were on the right side and they were all waiting for a traffic light. Embarrassing. We waved and smiled and went slowly. Some kind soul let us pass through the intersection. For the most part, Antiguan drivers are very courteous and will often stop, blink their lights and allow you to cut through their lane to accommodate a turn during backed-up traffic.

Antigua and Barbuda is a predominately Christian nation. The Anglican Church accounts for about 17% of the population. Adventists and Pentecostals follow with about 12% each. The Methodists, Roman Catholic, Baptist, Moravian, Church of God and Weslyan Holiness churches account for about 10% of the population. Other religious groups claim around 12% of the population and include Rastafarians, Hindus, Bahia’is, Muslims and Jews. (Information taken from Antigua and Barbuda A Little Bit of Paradise.).

Driving in Saint Johns is a challenge. Many of the streets are one-way and the cruise ships bring in countless pedestrians. We were directed to park in a pay lot which was only open until 2:00 pm for whatever reason. The first thing we came across was a pedal-pub full of cruise ship tourists … yet another driving obstacle that made us glad we were parked.

Saint Johns Market

A big old statue of V.C. Bird stands prominently downtown Saint Johns next to the public market. He was the first prime minister of Antigua and Barbuda and held that position from 1981 — 1994. In that time, he took the twin island nation from a British Colony to an independent nation.

Next to Bird’s statue is a black pineapple, a type of fruit that is said to be a delicacy and unique to the island.

Donkey Sanctuary

A dirt road full of potholes led us to the donkey sanctuary where it was hot and dusty. There are about 150 or so stray donkeys that have found a good home in this sanctuary operated by the Antigua & Barbuda Humane Society.

The decline of the sugar industry has contributed to the abandonment of donkeys and has done little to curtail their population. While some continued to be used on farms and to lug produce to and from market, they were largely left to fend for themselves after the doors closed on the last sugar factory in the 1970s. Most people have little use for donkeys these days.

The 43-acre site is home to 150 jacks, jennies and foals. It is estimated that up to 400 more are roaming wild, breeding at will. They cause a lot of trouble for farmers and crops, they also break irrigation lines, crash through people’s gardens and overturn garbage bins looking for food. The vagrant lifestyle is tough for the donkeys too.

Devil’s Bridge

Our next destination is Devil’s Bridge near the town of Willikies. This National Park offers a stunning glimpse into Antigua’s natural formation.

Composed of limestone rock, the rugged terrain of Devil’s Bridge is the result of millions of years of ancient reef formation. A rough natural outcrop of limestone has been eroded by many years of Atlantic waves crashing into it and forming a bridge. I wouldn’t recommend walking over it but there are some who have.

Back to Pidgeon Point Beach

We need to get back to Falmouth Harbour in time for a swim and sunset at Pidgeon Point beach. It’s Saturday evening and this is the first time we’ve seen a crowded beach. There were a lot of locals and kids enjoying the water and sunset.

Antigua’s Carnival does not coincide with Mardi Gras. It was first celebrated in 1957 with the purpose of attracting tourists and to commemorate the emancipation from slavery.

It is a summer festival with artistic and cultural talent, music, steelbands and calypso. The streets come alive with parades, music bands and troupes with a multitude of masqueraders in colourful costumes. Held during the last week of July, and culminating on the first Monday and Tuesday of August, the event attracts locals and visitors alike. (Information taken from visitantiguaandbarbuda.com and iexplore.com).

Tomorrow we’re planning to snorkel and explore Shirley Heights.

After the long day in Barbuda yesterday, we spent plenty of time relaxing on the balcony and drinking coffee this morning.

Beach time! Nearby Galleon Beach is calling us! Located on Antigua’s southern coast in English Harbor, Galleon Beach is relatively well protected from rough seas. It is named after the ships that used to moor here – evident by the huge rusting anchor that lies in the shallows in the middle of the beach.

The soft sands of Galleon Beach slip into warm blue waters well-known locally for snorkeling. The security guard gave us a few tips on where to snorkel and also mentioned that turtles regularly come toward shore in the morning.

Before settling on the beach, we did a little beach shopping. A local entrepreneur offered an assortment of handmade necklaces and bracelets made from tamarind seeds and colorfully painted lavender pods in addition to t-shirts and scarves.

Late afternoon we heard what sounded like cannons. One of the rowboats from the Talisker Whisky Trans-Atlantic Rowboat Competition has finished and is heading for Nelson’s Dockyard. The yachts started blowing horns and everyone on the beach started hootin’ and hollering.

Participants in this competition, leave the Canary Islands (south of Spain, west of Africa) in early December. It takes between 30-95 days to reach Antigua which means they are spending their Christmas and New Years holidays at sea.

The row teams vary and have 1, 2, 3 or 4 participants. In their 3000 nautical mile trek across the Atlantic, they experience sleep deprivation, hallucinations and hunger. This test of body and mind is balanced by sighting incredible marine life, witnessing the breaking of a new day and sun sets that cannot be viewed from land.

We were motivated to move on to Nelson’s Dockyard which was on our list anyway but thought it might be fun to see the rowboat finishers.

Nelson’s Dockyard is a cultural heritage site and marina which became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2016. In the 1600’s it was established as a way to protect British ships from hurricanes and to monitor naval activity at the neighboring French island of Guadeloupe.

The Dockyard has been restored to its original state featuring 18th and 19th century buildings with modern amenities such as shops, hotels, and marina businesses. (Information from VisitAntiguaAndBarbuda.com)

It may have been faster for us to swim to Nelson’s Dockyard. By the time we got the car and drove there, all the Trans-Atlantic rowboat hoopla had moved on.

After wandering around the dockyard, we returned to our apartment. The sunset is blocked by the hillside but still pretty to watch its hues color the clouds. We walked across the street to the Antigua Yacht Club’s restaurant for dinner and ended the evening there.

Crack of dawn and the roosters are crowing. We left our accommodations around 5:00 am and headed for Antigua’s main harbor in the town of Saint John. Our excursion to the island of Barbuda is going to fill the day.

We were nervous about finding a parking place on the streets in Saint John. A harbor security guard directed us to a very convenient parking space close to the dock.

We were directed to be at the dock around 6:30 am. Our ferry departure was delayed by an hour because a cruise ship was docking.

The air-conditioned inside cabin of the ferry boat had very comfortable seating.

Barbuda is flat! Unlike Antigua with its scenic mountains and rolling hills, this island is low-lying limestone. It’s easy to see how hurricane Irma ravaged the island in 2019. It was a category 5 storm that destroyed about 95% of the island’s structures. Most of the population was evacuated to Antigua.

There is a third island that belongs to Antigua & Barbuda called Redonda. It is uninhabited but home to a number of sea birds. The island became an important source of guano before artificial fertilizers were mass-produced.

After the ferry docked, we connected with Henry our guide and our tour group was loaded into vans to start our excursion.

It was a short drive to a dock in Codrington lagoon, a tranquil 11 mile stretch of water where small boats were waiting to transport our group.

Frigates have a 7-ft wing span and have predominantly black plumage, long, forked tails and long hooked bills. They are seabirds but their feathers are not waterproof. They can stay aloft for up to two months without touching down on land or water. They can’t swim and if they do encounter water, they would become waterlogged and eventually drown.

The name Frigate comes from the French mariners’ name for a frigate or fast warship.

Only one chick per pair of frigate birds is hatched and stays in the nest for 8-10 months. Because of this they breed once every other year.

The bird sanctuary is amazing. (Information about Frigates taken from Rough Guide to Antigua & Barbuda, National Geographic.org and Audubon.org).

After docking, we boarded the vans again. It was a long ride across the island. Two women sitting next to me were talking in another language that I didn’t recognize. When I asked where they were from, one responded in English, ‘what do you mean where are we from’. Then I asked what language they were speaking. She went on to explain that they were originally from Poland but now live outside of Toronto, Canada.

Barbuda has many caves and sink holes primarily because it is composed of limestone. The caves at Two Foot Bay run along the sea cliffs.

Our guide Kendrick was born in Barbuda and lived there most of his life. When Hurricane Irma came he didn’t evacuate, he stayed in the cave. I’m not exactly clear on the details of his story but the water level in the cave became a problem. Somehow he survived.

Kendrick was a great guide pointing out some of the natural wonders on our route.

Lunch was served at the Hillside View Bar & Grill in the National Park near the caves.

After lunch, we boarded the vans and it was a long ride to the “Princess Diana Beach” so named because Princess Diana often vacationed in Barbuda and enjoyed the seclusion of this beach. The beach was re-named after her in 2011 to coincide with what would have been her 50th birthday.

Driving Adventure of the Day: Our drive from Saint Johns across the island to our apartment in Falmouth Harbor was in the dark … one more obstacle in addition to driving on the left, potholes, chickens, dogs, pedestrians and other hazards. We were using cell phone GPS to guide us and at some point it went out of range and we missed a turn. After we passed a man carrying a large pick-axe over his shoulder, the road got darker and narrower, more secluded and scarier. We had no choice but to turn around and retrace our route from memory which meant we had to pass by the pick-axe murderer again. Very carefully we made our way back to the Saint John’s area, found the correct route and started over.

We arrived back in Falmouth around 9:00 pm. Being famished we found a nice but busy outdoor restaurant and felt fortunate to get seats at the bar since we didn’t have a reservation. We placed our order and shortly after our drinks arrived, the power went out. Everyone got out cell phones lights and continued eating and drinking. The cooks continued grilling using their cell phones for light.

About ten minutes later, they had to shut the grill down because without power, the exhaust fan wasn’t working. They assured us the power would be on shortly. We had another drink. No power. They offered us a plate of French fries. No power. Finally we gave up and went back to our apartment. It was time to end this day.

I’m traveling with my long-time friend Peggy. My husband David is not so much a beach person and our destination has 365 beaches.

After yesterdays long travel day, we opted for a relaxing beach day. Pigeon beach is a short walk from where we are staying.

After a nice long rest at Pidgeon Beach we jumped in the car and headed to St. John’s, the capital city and key port.

Still getting used to the reversed British driving but we’re doing great. The turn signal and the windshield wiper stem are reversed so we’re wiping the windshield often. That always brings a laugh.

Quick stop to buy fresh fruits and vegetables to nibble on. We trusted the opinion of the vendor to try a few exotic things. We were hoping to find some of Antigua’s black pineapple but it doesn’t come in until Friday.

Next stop is Jolly Beach on the southwest coast. They wanted $25 (US) to sit on two beach chairs. We only had two $20 bills which no one will take because they were slightly torn. We told the woman we’d just sit on the sand. She then told us to go ahead and sit in the chairs (free). Maybe we should carry the torn bills with us to all the beaches.

We had a hard time finding an early afternoon lunch stop because employees were given four hours off work so they could vote.

Our waitress Shyrainne very proudly showed us her finger dipped in ink to show that she had voted today. Her hope is that they make the retirement age 60 so it will open up jobs for the youth.

It’s the end of January and we still have about 20” of snow on the ground. And today, when I’m leaving for Antigua-Barbuda, it’s raining on top of the 20” of snow. Not a good combination. The temperature is above freezing so the 3:00 am drive to the airport shouldn’t be too treacherous.

After taking off from Miami it’s about 1,300 miles to Antigua.

We flew over some inhabited islands and some that were not. Beautiful to look at with swirling shades of turquoise blue and soft sand colors.

We circled a couple times before landing at V. C. Bird International airport and the view was spectacular. Pastel colored houses, the craggy shoreline, mountains, islands, beaches.

We have arrived! Arrived where? The official name of this country is “Antigua & Barbuda” a pair of islands described in many ways. They are the Leeward islands (a group of islands situated where the Caribbean Sea meets the Atlantic ocean), the Lesser Antilles (a group of Caribbean islands that are part of a long, partially volcanic island arc between Greater Antilles to the north-west and the continent of South America.) Also, you may hear it referred to as the “West Indies” (a combination of the Greater Antilles, the Lesser Antilles, the Bahamas and Turks and Caicos.) Some of these West Indies islands are not physiographically connected but have a common history and cultural ties.

It gets dark around 6:00 pm and we drove across the island to our accommodations near Falmouth Harbor and the English Harbor.

The island is only 12 miles long x 9 miles yet it took us forever (an hour) to reach our destination. Adding to the fun … we’re in a former British colony which means the car’s steering wheel is on the passenger side and we’re driving on the wrong side of the road. Lots of potholes, pedestrians, dogs, cats, cows and other distractions. It was a very long day.

Today’s destination is Shete Boka which means ‘Seven Inlets”. The area actually has more than 10 Boka’s (inlets) where three species of turtles nest. Years ago, an environmental group arranged excursions in this area along seven bays. This is where the name came from, however, there are more than seven coves in this national park.

When we arrived at the entrance, the attendants were very discouraging. They said the road was full of potholes from the rain and dangerous to drive. So we said we would walk not realizing how far apart everything was.

After seeing a couple cars off in the distance, we ended up driving. The attendants were right; deep potholes, puddles and mud slicks made maneuvering the “road” a challenge. But it was worth it.

We began our hike to Boka Wandomi. The small dirt parking lot is monitored by a caretaker in a wooden tower-like structure. The final destination features a large natural bridge with lots of wave action.

To reach the final destination, you need to hike down into a ravine and then hike back up the other side. The ravine has rocks that form letters, words, hearts, etc. Someone with a lot of energy and tolerance for heat created this open-air work of art.

We hiked back to the car. The air-conditioning revived us. It was a very slow 2-3 mile drive to Boka Pistol parking lot at the other end. The heat along with the bad roads and time limitations forced us to be selective about which boka’s we hiked. The park closes at 4:00 pm.

We didn’t see any cruise ship excursion buses here and not many other tourists. The combination of heat, full sun and long hiking distances made it challenging.

Next stop is Boka Pistol, so named because the waves crash into the cliffs so hard that they reverberate with a sound similar to the sound of a shotgun.

Feeling dusty and hot, we changed into our swim wear in the isolated parking lot and headed to the beach. Tomorrow is our last full day in Curacao.

Our new accommodations were at a Scuba Diving resort in Westpunt. We came in late last night when it was dark, so it was exciting to see the natural beauty of this part of the island in full daylight.

This resort is located on a cliff overlooking the amazing turquoise water.

It was about 7:00-ish by the time we got cleaned-up from the beach. Most of the restaurants close by 8:00 pm. We had cocktails on the patio until the mosquitos arrived followed by light suppers made in the kitchenette. I think the locals tend to watch the sunsets from the restaurants.

Westpunt first appeared on maps of the Dutch West Indies Company around 1700. In 1849, land was donated to the Catholic Church by plantation Savonet to build a church and school.

A village appeared around the church in the 1860s inhabited by newly freed slaves following the abolition of slavery in the Kingdom of the Netherlands.

Westpunt remained isolated for most of its history due to the 22 miles to Willemstad. There is public bus service around the island. The bus stops are plentiful and most are decorated for the holidays.

The population density is low, and the number of inhabitants has been steadily decreasing. In 2002, the elementary school closed. Tourist resorts and holiday homes have appeared near the coast. To sum it up, let’s say it’s a very quiet but beautiful part of the island.

Westpunt is home to some of the island’s most beautiful coral sand beaches. Three were very near; small Playa Kalki, Playa Forti, and Playa Grandi (aka Playa Piscado and Sabana Wesport). Playa Grandi is the sales center for the local fishing community. The daily catch includes Barracuda, Mahi Mahi, Blacktail Tuna, Yellowtail Tuna, Red Snapper, Queen Snapper, Wahoo, Sailfish, Amberjack, Bluejack, Black Grouper, Lobster, Octopus, and Lion Fish.

We really wanted to try Lion Fish but it was always sold out.

Playa Kalki is also known as Alice in Wonderland due to mushroom-shaped coral formations. The name Kalki comes from the local Papiamentu word for the white coral rock and limestone, which is abundant on the beach and surrounding cliffs. You wouldn’t want to walk on this barefoot.

Playa Kalki and its surroundings are known for their good scuba conditions. There is a professional dive center located directly on the beach at Playa Kalki.

Our next stop, Playa Grandi. This is the first time I’ve seen roosters and chickens on a beach. This tiny fishermen’s beach is also popular for snorkeling and diving. Entrance to the water is somewhat rocky.

The Sea Turtles appear from 11:00 – 4:00 daily and so do the cruise ship excursions. The sea turtles come for the Fishermen’s scraps that get tossed over.

The cruise ship guests come to see the turtles. The ships are parked outside Willemstad, a good 40 miles away. This is probably a 6 hour tour with a few stops. The motor coaches pull up and the beach fills. The groups march into the water with life jackets and snorkel masks. The sea turtles are everywhere and quite easy to find.

This is one of the reasons why we hit the beaches after 4:00 pm. We like to watch the sunsets too.

We head back to the resort to finish off the evening.

Today we are heading for Mt. Christoffel National Park. David is going to take on the mountain. Hikers need to register with the park office by 10:30 am or they are not allowed to climb. The heat and humidity become an issue later in the morning. The well travelled trail is pretty much one mile straight up the mountain with some rock scrambling toward the top.

When David was on his hike, I toured the Savonet Museum located inside Christoffel National Park. This former plantation house built in 1662 is an important cultural site with its well-kept structures and artifacts.

Savonet Landhuis is a unique landmark that allows visitors to recount the social evolution of Curacao through the story of the island’s first inhabitants, the plantation’s owners, and the enslaved people. Different exhibits witness the situations of the distinct groups of the slavery period as well as the evolution of the civilization and customs following emancipation.

After touring Savonet Landhuis, I sat at a picnic table in the shade and started blogging. I was startled by loud birds and looked up to find that I was surrounded by about 20 peacocks.

The Peahens are not nearly as pretty as their Peacock partners.

David returned hours later. We didn’t realize it, but there was a small parking lot by the trail head. This would have shortened his hike by an hour or so.

David took a few photos from the mountain. He said it was a little rough at the very top but a beautiful view.

When David returned from the hike, it was hot, humid and time to eat. We headed to one of Curacao’s long standing establishments — Jaanchie’s restaurant.

I ❤️ Jaanchie’s! This is the oldest restaurant in Curacao. Pass through the white gates and enter a different world. For starters, the place is a bird sanctuary and surrounded with gardens.

Mr. Jaanchie is the menu. He sits down at your table and tells you what’s cooking. He asks what you would like and says he can mix it up so you can try a few specialties of the island.

He also mentions that Iguana is on the menu and that it tastes like chicken but has a lot of bones. Neither David or I could bring ourselves to trying the Iguana.

Back at our accommodations we enjoyed warm breezes while sipping rum drinks and watching one last sunset. Time to pack up the shorts, flip-flops and sunscreen.

Tomorrow we head back to Minnesota … land of 10,000 frozen lakes, a couple feet of snow, crisp cold air and countless snow emergencies declared for clearing snow from the streets.

The contrasting winter weather is a welcome change but stay tuned! Our long-time friend Peggy and I are planning an escape to the Eastern Caribbean islands of Antigua & Barbuda at the end of January. Until then, happy trails!

Today we’re moving to the west end of the island. We’ve had a great time in Willemstad but are eager to explore the quieter side of the island.

Westpunt is the western most point and mostly known for being surrounded by beautiful nature, scuba diving and shores.

The whole island from east to west is about 40 miles so it’s not a very long journey even though the roads are slow and winding. We made several stops at nature reserves, beaches and other sites of interest.

The salt flats (Salinas) near Jan Kok is where we found a Sanctuary where flamingos can be seen in their natural habitat.

The salt flats were used for salt extraction until the 1960s and salt pans are still present. The area is currently used for recreational purposes of hiking and biking as well as guided eco-tours.

We found no tap beer, let alone Craft beer, in all of Curacao. Most places only carry Dutch brands of bottled beer such as Heineken and Amstel Bright a European Pale Lager style beer. We did find a Venezuelan beer at an isolated small grocery store. Most beer comes in small ‘pony’ size bottles. I’m guessing that the smaller size is used because normal size bottles become warm fast in this climate.

The Williwood sign (a parody of the one found in Hollywood) can be found in St. Willibrordus. The locals of the tiny tropical village were tired of being anonymous so they made the sign which changed the name.

Previously, the town was known for its grand church that dates back to the 1800s but the Williwood sign has taken the spotlight as the ‘can’t miss’ attraction. In 2011, St. Willibrordus officially changed its name to Williwood.

Sunset is coming and we need to find a beach. Bumpy twisty dirt roads took us to Playa Portamari and Daaibooi Baai. A handful of snorkelers and swimmers were waiting for the sunset.

We drove the rest of the way to Westpunt in the dark and on a paved road but very winding and surrounded with shrub, scrub, cactus and an occasional street light.

We had a late dinner (8:00 pm … considered late here on the west end.) The Cactus Cafe is next door to our accommodations. Very quiet and very decorated for Christmas. We had Barracuda and funghi (polenta) for dinner and tried their African ‘peanut with banana’ soup. It was delicious but not something I’d make at home. Reminded me of Elvis.

We have arrived at Westpunt and so has the full moon.

David started the day with something called the Açaí bowl. It was purple, cold and thick like ice cream. It contained fresh fruit, oatmeal milk, granola nuts and dried fruit. Very refreshing in this hot and humid weather.

Running parallel to most of Curacao’s north coast, are cliffs that were formed 200 million years ago by the same forces that pushed the island up from the Caribbean Sea. These forces caused receding waters to percolate down through the porous limestone terrace, creating a region honeycombed with fissures and grottos. The caves are a dramatic example of this unusual geography.

Our tour guide explained how Curacao is formed in layers going up in height, which are called ‘terraces’. Most caves on the island are found in the second terrace. The Hato Cave is uniquely found in the third terrace of the island. To reach the entrance, you need to go up about 50 steps.

Over the years, the caves provided shelter for some of the island’s early inhabitants, the Caiquetio Indians (from Northern Venezuela) and then later to escaped slaves who used many caverns to hide from their masters. Several Indian skeletons and 1,500-year-old artifacts have been discovered there.

Next stop is Chobolobo and the Curacao distillery. Landhuis Chobolobo is an iconic 19th-century mansion. The property’s history is rather sketchy but never had any other use than to serve as a country residence for wealthy merchants.

Spaniards came to Curacao around the 1500 and one of the plants they brought with was the Valencia Orange. The arid climate and soil conditions changed the juicy fruit into a bitter, almost inedible produce. The project was forgotten and the Valencia orange grew wild and abandoned, not even touched by the goats.

Decades later, someone discovered that the peels of this orange contained an ethereal oil with an extraordinary pleasing fragrance. This orange is called Lahara and is indigenous to Curacao. The Lahara is inedible. However the dried orange peels are perfect for the production of Curacao liqueur and provides a unique taste.

Today, Senior Co. is the only brand in the world that uses Lahara to make Curacao liqueur. The name “Curacao” is the name of a “place” and therefore cannot be trademarked. This is why there are many brands of “Curacao” liqueur on the market today. Senior also produces other liqueurs than Curacao, like a chocolate and tamarind liqueur.

Since 1946, Chobolobo houses the “Senior Co.” distillery which has produced the famous Blue Curacao. True Curacao is made with the Laraha orange that only grows in Curacao. The entire process is done by hand … everything from picking the oranges, peeling and drying, mixing the recipe and distilling to bottling and labeling.

Today’s beach is Jan Thiele which is just outside of Willemstad. All decorated for the holidays, the complex includes five restaurants and three beach clubs. There is a fee for beach entrance, parking and chairs.

Our strategy is to stay away during the hottest part of the day (we are near the Equator after all). We usually roll into the beaches around 4:00 when the crowds have left and there are no charges for entrance, parking or chairs.

First order of the day after coffee, was to find a place to watch the World Cup Soccer match between Holland and the US.

We walked through our neighborhood looking at street art. It’s everywhere in this very colorful city.

The Kura Hulanda Museum shows the turbulent period that involved the Slave trade between the Netherlands and Curacao. The museum also houses an extensive collection of African and Antillean (religious) art.

Enough walking … we jumped in the car and headed for Mombo beach. Driving in Curacao is very slow. Traffic lights seem to last over five minutes. There are long lines of cars everywhere. For excitement add the sky view over the Juliana bridge and a few one-way streets.

We had a hard time finding the beach, mostly because you can’t see it. There are blocks of dirt parking lots lining Mombo Beach boulevard. We arrived late afternoon which is when everyone leaves …therefore parking was free as were the entrance and chair fees.

We had to walk down a few flights of stairs in a mall-like building filled with shops to get to the beach. The shops, restaurants and bars were endless. We did find the beach eventually.

We had dinner at the Seaside Terrace known for seafood. A lovely way to end the day.