Ribadiso: It’s a Small World

Ribadiso Albuergue

7 October 2019

It’s a foggy Monday morning.

Around 10:00 am, little Chisco, who thinks he’s a herd dog helps farmer Alfonso escort the cows to their pasture.

The singing pilgrim stops for a song and then he’s back on the Camino again.

At Meson Rural, there are three copper vats that hang over the bar. We have seen these elsewhere and wondered if this was some type of micro-brewery set up. Well, today we saw how it all works.

David, the Estrella Galicia beer man arrives.

He brings his ladder in and inspects the vat. Then he opens it and cleans off the inside and the outside.

Then he brings in a hose and attaches it to the vat.

The hose is connected to an Estella Galicia truck parked outside the bar.

It’s kind of like a fire truck but it’s filled with beer. He fills the empty vats. There is a nitrous oxide tank hooked up to the spigot where the beer is poured from. I don’t think I’ve ever seen this kind of system in Minnesota. Seems like an economical way to provide beer as opposed to kegs.

Pilgrim of the Day: Dieter from South Africa — He’s 80 years old and walking the camino with his son Robert. He was born in Germany and recalls living there when he was five years old and the war was on. They sent the women and children to live in the countryside in case the city was bombed. Years later as an adult, he went back to find the women who had sheltered him during the war to thank them. He lives in south Madagascar and loves living there.

Cutest Couple: Evan and Blanca — Evan is from Switzerland and Blanca is from Mexico. They live in Switzerland. They enjoyed walking Camino Frances and love Spain as well as the ambiance of the Ribadiso albuergue.

Strangest Coincidence! We started talking to a group from Michigan passing by the albuergue entrance. Somehow Terry made a connection with the man (in the above photo) wearing a blue shirt and cupping a cell phone to his ear. He was from the same small town as her co-worker Sharon. Terry gave Sharon a quick call to see if she knew this man and sure enough she did … it was her brother’s best friend and she hadn’t seen him in decades. Terry ran next door to the Meson Rural where the Michigan group was on the terrace having a beer. She connected Sharon and John by cell phone. It was a nice reunion. It’s a small world.



Ribadiso: A Magical Stop on Camino Frances

Ribadiso Albuergue

6 October 2019

Sunday is another gentle day at the albuergue. It’s a beautiful sunny morning. It’s going to be very warm.

Not sure if this horse rider is a pilgrim or a local. Pilgrim’s riding horses have a different route and they need to stay at places that can accommodate the care of their horse.

First Pilgrim of the Day: Tomas from Belgium

Cutest Couple: King Richard and Queen Ingrid — Looking at the photo, one would think this couple has been married for years. Not so, they met on the camino and have known each other for 13 days. They are so compatible and have a remarkable sense of humor. Richard is from England and Ingrid is from Denmark and they call themselves King and Queen. As they were leaving, Ingrid said to Richard, “tell them why you are following me”. His response was, “I can’t say that in front of the ladies.” There was laughter and she replied … “he follows me because I know the way.”

Loveable Local: Bernadette: Farmer Alfonso walks his gals to the pasture everyday. Bernadette is an independent thinker. On the way to the pasture, she will stop by the Pension and inspect the parking lot. When she feels like it she will return to her peeps and continue on to the pasture.

Therapy bench was busy today.

It just takes one to get the party started here.

Then a couple more take the plunge.

Before you know it, everyone is in the water. Most of these people are from different countries and are camino acquaintances. Later that evening I saw many of them again at Meson Rural. They wanted to have dinner together and the party continued.


Ribadiso: Country Life is Beautiful

Ribadiso Albuergue

5 October 2019

First Pilgrim to Arrive at the Albuergue was from Malaga Spain. Most pilgrims start in Palais de Rey which is 20K (about 18 miles). Those arriving around 1:00 pm are fast walkers or else they leave early in the morning when it is dark.

Pilgrim of the Day: Diego who originally came from Columbia but is now living in Florida. He is retired from the United States military. This man spent a lot of time on Terry’s therapy bench. A while back he lost everything in a hurricane and said the services offered by FEMA were fabulous and exceeded his expectations. He and his wife live a fairly simple life so it was easy to get back on his feet again with the help from FEMA. We are guessing that it was probably a few presidents ago. Over the years he has walked four caminos: the Primativo, Norte and Frances twice.

Cutest Couple: Viva and John from Canada. To celebrate their 40th wedding anniversary they are walking Camino Frances in 40 days.

Lovable Local: Ana is one of the Albuerguesa’s at our albuergue and she lives nearby. She is very professional and always has a smile on her face. I’m sure if we spoke better Spanish, there would be a lot we could talk about. We do manage to communicate and laugh at things but it is challenging.

Word of the Day: Rosquillas pronounced Ohs-Key-Yas. They are Spanish doughnuts. At first I thought these were some kind of cookie. They kind of have a shortbread texture with a light glaze. I did not know what these were when I first bought a bag from some people selling them at a table outside of a church near A Calle. That should have been a clue. At home, churches usually serve donuts after services. Nope, I just assumed they were cookies. The second time, I found them at an outdoor market in Azura.

After finding Rosquillas at an outdoor market in Azura, I finally looked up the word and was somewhat surprised to discover that I had been eating doughnuts … something I would normally pass up at home.

Saturday is a slow Day at the Albuergue. Most people arrive to start their camino in Sarria or further out on a Friday, Saturday or Sunday. Those starting in Sarria will reach Ribadiso on Monday, Tuesday or Wednesday. Also, the weather is starting to feel a little cooler here. More cloudy mornings with light rain. It’s the beginning of fall and the lighter season on Camino with not as many walkers.

The albuergue is usually bustling with energy but now with cooler weather and rain, it is beginning to slow down a bit.

Terry and I went into Azura to grocery shop today. At the Froize grocery store we noticed that they sell alcohol-free Clown champagne.

And here is a local favorite, the Gigante Verde with white asparagus which is next to impossible to find at home.

We wanted to get a little more exotic with this week’s menu. But not as exotic as the seafood shown above. This week we opted for shrimp, swine hocks, sausage, pasta, rice and the usual eggs, bacon, cheese, etc. I wanted to find sauerkraut to go with the swine hocks but that word does not translate. The best I could do was to find a small cabbage.

Here is the end result of the swine hocks experiment. It tasted a little bit like corned beef. We used the leftovers to make soup for the next day.

The cab ride home from Azura is a beautiful one. Ribadiso sits is in a deep valley surrounded by scenic hillsides with farms and corn fields.

After dinner tonight, I took a walk up the hill in the opposite direction of Azura. It is a very steep hill. Mostly farm land and corn fields. In fact, the albuergue is surrounded by corn fields.

I’m not sure what this building is but the sign translates as “Sale of Imported Heifers” and I have seen Holstein cows hanging around.

At the top of the hill is Bar Manuel. I thinks its only open during the day and they serve bocadillos and tortillas. They probably get a lot of business from the hundreds of pilgrims who walk by daily. During the winter months it must be a challenge to eek out a living when there are so few pilgrims walking.

Back down the hill to Ribadiso. Our municipal albuergue is just across the bridge. I’m enjoying the peace and serenity of being in farm country and being surrounded with beauty of nature.


Ribadiso — Life is a Long Camino

Ribadiso Albuergue

4 October 2019

First Person to Arrive Today is: Ton Bae Lee from South Korea. His English is very good. It seems like all the pilgrims who arrived at the Albuergue today know Ton Bae. A large group of Spaniards that looked like a soccer team came through and they were all very happy to see him. He is a very likable person. He spent some time on Terry’s Therapy bench.

Pilgrim of the Day: Luis from France This is one of the most amazing people I’ve ever met on the Camino in the last three years. He is 76 years old and recently retired. He owned a financial services company and sold it just before walking the camino. Luis said he started out as a tourist. Then he became a trekker. And now he has been converted into a pilgrim. He has amazing stories to tell and a very insightful perspective on youth, religion, spirituality and politics. Luis has been walking for 12 weeks. He started in Le Puy, France, which is about 1000K (600 miles) to Santiago. After Luis finishes the Camino Frances in two days, he will join his wife in Luxembourg where they will live.

Cutest Couple: I was forced to create this category when these two walked through in their matching attire. They are from Costa Rica and took countless photos in front of the bridge. Then they gave their cell phone to me so I could take countless photos of them in front of the bridge. Maybe it’s for their Christmas card?

Delightful Outdoor Picnic? Wrong! We were eating lunch and I smelled something unusual. I had left a pan lid on a hot burner plate (European stove) and it melted the knob on the pan lid. All of a sudden the little kitchen filled with smoke. The toxic smell forced us to take our lunch outside. Fortunately, there are big open windows on the cottage and it aired out quickly.

Strangest Thing I’ve Seen In Public: This happened at Meson Rural. The woman on the right is holding some type of massager that is about the size of a large power drill. She is massaging the other woman’s back during dinner.

Lovable Local: Alfonso the waiter at Meson Rural Alfonso speaks a little English and is on duty in the late afternoon or evening and an occasional morning. I asked him about Queimada, a traditional Galician punch. He said it is a very strong drink. Not available at the Meson.

Best party ever! After dinner I was over at the Meson Rural minding my own business blogging because WiFi is available there. Many of today’s pilgrims who were there knew my name because I had greeted them at the albuergue and showed them around earlier that day. Lisa who is an elementary teacher in Nuremberg, Germany was sitting with two Italians … Simone, a nurse from Pisa and Alfonso from Rome who was on leave from the Italian army. They kept calling to me and inviting me to join them. Eventually, I did. (Now you know why my blog is so far behind.) Everyone spoke English. The next two invited to the table were Priscilla and Angela from Switzerland. This was such a delightful group. Before today, no one at this table knew each other except for the two gals from Switzerland.

Lots of camino talk and laughter.

Alfonso (the Italian) is quite a character and the life of the party.

Our lovable local, Alfonso the waiter, brought over a bottle of something called Zoco. Many shots were being poured and toasts of friendship were being made.

Zoco is the oldest commercial brand of Pacharan. It is a Navarro liquere made in the Basque region. It is a complex combination of blueberry, coffee and vanilla in an anisette. It is low in alcohol and considered a digestive.

What a fun evening to share with these people from so many different countries. It was a lot of fun but not too much fun. The Meson Rural closes everyday at 9:30 pm.


Ribadiso: A Quiet Day at the Albergue

Ribadiso Albuergue: 3 October 2019

• First Pilgrim to Arrive Today was from: Belgium

• Word of the Day: Queixos That is Galician for cheese which in Spain is usually queso. But not in Galicia … it is pronounced with a lisp … Kay thos.

There is a special cheese made in Azura. It is white and very creamy like Brie.

Pilgrim of the Day: Tim from Taiwan. Tim recently graduated from the Police Academy and now has four months off to travel. He scored high on his police test which will help him get assigned to his hometown near Taipei. He will begin working as a police officer when he returns home.

Loveable Local: Laura, waitress at Meson Rural. We see Laura just about every day and she always very welcoming.

Laura’s t-shirt depicts a Galician festival that takes place in Melide the second weekend in September. She said people drink wine and eat Peppers Padron.

This beautifully patterned little snake is about the size of an earthworm.

Chickens from the farm next door.

Eager pups playing in the river.

A pilgrim cooling his feet.

Andrea from Austria doing Qigong on the river. She had just met the guy next to her and he wanted to try Qigong. She handed me her cell phone and asked me to take photos from the bridge of three poses.

Dinner back at the cottage. An assortment of pork and sausage in the rice along with salad mixta. It’s starting to rain. Very quiet at the albuergue.

I ended the day by taking a walk into the countryside. Very relaxing.


Ribadiso: Pilgrims on Parade

Pilgrims on parade by foot, bike and horse.

Ribadiso Albuergue: 2 October 2019

First Pilgrim to arrive Today is from: South Korea

Best Quote of the Day: “My feet hurt so bad my butt aches.” Anonymous pilgrim

Word of the Day: Vele, Vele It’s pronounced “bally bally” and usually said very fast. We’ve heard people saying it since day one in Spain. Our friend Henk from South Africa said it means the same as “ok”. I haven’t been able to find it in print and I’m wondering if it is slang.

Pilgrim of the Day: Joseph from Panama City, Florida

Joseph is one-of-a-kind. He resembles my son Quinn, but acts like our friend Chandler. Another coincidence, he does car wraps in Florida. My son Quinn who works for Wrap City, is beginning to design car wraps.

Joseph has had a tough road on the Camino. He planned to tent camp. The airlines wouldn’t allow his tent poles (because they are dangerous weapons) but they allowed (missed finding) a large Bowie knife in his backpack. He asked them several times if it was ok to take his backpack on the plane and they kept saying yes. And so he did take it.

Joseph is tough — he broke his ankle while on the camino. It was a pot hole in Zuberi at the beginning that did him in. He rested but never stopped walking. He is two days away from Santiago. In the photo above, he and Terry compare ankle injuries and commiserated on Terry’s Therapy bench. Joseph also cut his finger to the bone. Didn’t get stitches. A nurse walking the camino wrapped it for him.

Lovable Local: Chisco

Chisco is farmer Alfonso’s trusty dog. He helps herd the cows to the pasture, hangs around the bridge and the outdoor terrace at the restaurant.

Since the restaurant’s terrace door is left open, Chisco is also a regular at the bar.

In the morning, I usually go over to Meson Rural (bar and restaurant next door) to catch up on emails and to blog. They have very good WiFi. Terry has T-Mobile with cellular coverage just about everywhere in Spain. She stays at the cottage. She has a leisurely breakfast, showers, elevates her foot, reads and watches the foot traffic on the bridge from the cottage window.

I return around noon, we have a light lunch and get ready for our 1:00 pm work shift.

Today’s Albuerguesa is Ana. She and Maricarmen alternate days. Ana speaks a few words of English and always wears a white uniform when she cleans. She is a local.

Luis is a pilgrim on bike from Northern Spain.

Lots of horse traffic today.

The horses don’t use the bridge, they cut through the river. And they don’t usually stop.

A group of school boys in their underwear having a good time in the river. The flag went in with them.

Today a group from “I’ll Push You“, came through. This is Caitlin from Reno. She is accompanied by her mother Kathy and her brother Brett from Texas. The man on the right is Craig, a volunteer from I’ll Push You. They call him the mule. I think he does a lot of the pushing. The entire group of about 40 started in Sarria which is 100K from Santiago. A bus transports them back to Santiago every night where there are facilities that can accommodate them. Our albuergue does have a handicap facility. It is a separate building that has four beds and is handicap accessible.

This delightful family is from Spain and stayed at the albuergue. They are walking the Camino. They do about six miles a day which is impressive for such young (well behaved) children. They started in Sarria which is 100K from Santiago — a total of about 62 miles.

The albuergue settles down late afternoon. Terry and I usually kick off sometime between 4:00 and 6:00. Next stop is the terrace at Meson Rural for a cerveza and then back to the cottage for dinner. Tonight was a quiet evening.


Ribadiso: Greeting the World

1 October 2019; Ribadiso Albuergue, Spain

“On the Camino there are no strangers, only friends who haven’t met yet”

This quote came from an unknown source in Rabinal. Working at the albuergue we have come to realize how true it is.


It’s our first day of work at the Albuergue. Our predecessors, Chuck and Linda have left town. The Galician paid Albuerguesa has not arrived yet. At 8:00 am, the pilgrims are to be out of the albuergue. At 8:30 am, Terry and I set out to do the pre-cleaning. Basically, we politely ask anyone lingering to leave. We pick up debris, sweep and tidy things up. After we are done, the Albuerguesa comes through for the heavy cleaning, disenfecting and mopping.

The kitchen was very needy. The group of 40 from Portugal filled the garbage can. Another smaller group of 5-6 had made a tuna noodle dish in the only pan available in the kitchen. They left the remnants in the fridge. Everything gets tossed.

This is one of the Albuergue’s two dormitory buildings.

The sleeping space is broken into three levels which is very nice. It doesn’t have a dormitory look that many municipal Albuergue’s have.

We sweep and remove any of the disposable bedding that pilgrims have forgotten to toss. On our first day, after a full house, it took us about an hour. Then we are free to do what we want until 1:00 pm.

Today, we had a quick breakfast of toast and coffee at Meson Rural and then headed into Arzua which is about 1.5 miles away. It’s all uphill. We needed to pick up groceries.

Most of the same things we have at home are available here. However, we did not find celery.

Fresh assortment of fish.

Crackers are hard to find. They have a lot of toast-like things.

A bottle of vodka includes a half-dozen red solo cups.

It was hard to figure out meals that we could cook in the cottage. The weeks menu included bacon, eggs and toast for breakfast, spaghetti, pork chops, chicken, rice, homemade soup and salad mixta for dinners. We had a few tapa items, cheese made in Arzua, pate, hard sausage, crackers and wine.


Our start time is 1:00 pm. We met Maricarmen, the paid Galician employee who is the Albuerguesa, the person in charge of everything. In addition to doing the heavy cleaning, she ensures that the property is maintained by calling appropriate help like electricians, plumbers, pest control etc. She also registers the pilgrims when they arrive.

Maricarmen is Galician and speaks mostly Spanish. She does know a few English words. Sometimes we have to rely on Google translate.

Our afternoon job is to greet the world. I welcome and escort pilgrims to the registration window. The Albuerguesa asks for their passport, their credential and 6 euro. After she has registered them, I give them the grand tour of the pilgrims kitchen, the shower house and laundry, the outdoor boot rack and then show them where their assigned bed is.

Terry, who is still recovering from a sprained ankle, stays at the entrance to the Albuergue on a bench. She greets and directs people passing by. We are often asked how far it is to Azura? Is there a church? Is there a grocery store? Can I take a picture of the bridge? Can I put my feet in the water? Can I go swimming? Is there a bathroom? Do you have a Stamp? (for their credential); Have you seen my friends from Italy? Do you have a little shampoo I could have? … just to name a few of the questions we get daily.

Oftentimes, someone will sit down on the bench with Terry and talk for a long time. Terry is a good listener. People who walk alone may have the need to connect with someone. We have both experienced this. We’ve started calling Terry’s bench the Therapy bench.

Terry on the “therapy bench” with a pilgrim.

This is what our bridge area looks like in the morning …

… and this is what it looked like this afternoon.

It was a beautiful day, warm and sunny. The Camino Frances is more crowded than ever. It is a highway of people coming through. We were just on Camino Ingles and saw a few people during the day but nothing like this. This is one of the school groups that came through.

Also, on our first day, we had a TV film crew from Japan on the property.

The view from my window.

Most pilgrims arrive at our albuergue after walking from Palais de Rey which is about 25K (15 miles) away. Some want to keep walking to the next town which is Azura. We hate being the bearers of bad news but its 3.2K (1-1/2 miles) all uphill. That is not what they want to hear after walking all day.

First dinner we cooked in the cottage was pork chops with rice and salad mixta.

A Slice of Life in Ribadiso

Our albuergue has 62 beds so we usually meet and greet at least 30-45 pilgrims per day. But in addition, we talk to dozens of people staying at the other pensions in Ribadiso and those walking on to Azura. I feel the need to feature in my blog some of the people and things we encounter. Therefore, I will be starting each daily blog with Pilgrim of the Day, Word of the Day and a few more categories as I think of them. I think you may enjoy a slice of life in Ribadiso.


Pilgrims of the Day

Those chosen for this honor have met Terry and Jane’s criteria as interesting people. And our criteria is totally random. There really isn’t a rhyme or reason why … it’s just someone who stood out in the crowd and caught our attention.

PILGRIM OF THE DAY: Tuesday, October 1st

Mary from Vancouver! She not only works at a hardware store, she owns it with her husband. Their hardware store, Skyway Hardware, is pretty big and includes a lumber yard. In addition, Mary has walked from St. Jean Pied de Port which is the full distance of the Frances camino.

Kyle from Northern Ireland! This quiet lad is a cook at a restaurant in Holywood, Northern Ireland. He is 20 years-old and walking the camino to discern his future. He said he is Protestant but now it doesn’t matter because no one cares about religion. Very thoughtful youth and seemingly good sense of global perspective.

WORD OF THE DAY: Mochilla A mochilla is a backpack and the reason we learned this is because many pilgrims send there mochillas by courier to their next stop. Just about every day I help a pilgrim chase down their mochilla. They are never delivered to our Albuergue. So we start looking at the bar next door and if it’s not there, we go to the Pension, then the next Albuergue and if someone is really unlucky, we walk to the end of Ribadiso to the last building.

Yesterday, a pilgrim asked Maricarmen (the Albuerguesa) if her rucksack had arrived. Maricarmen looked confused and said, mochilla?? The pilgrim said, “no, a rucksack”. I intervened and told the pilgrim I would help her find her rucksack and told Maricarmen, yes it is a mochilla. We found it eventually.

LOVEABLE LOCAL: Alfonso the Farmer. Alfonso lives next to Meson Rural, the restaurant. Everyday around 10:00 am he walks his four cows to their pasture on the other side of the bridge. And around 8:00 pm, he walks them back to the barn. I have walked with him to the pasture and he speaks only Spanish. I am able to dribble out a few words. We often see him riding his scooter, mowing the lawn, puttering around the barn.


Next Stop Ribadiso!

30 September 2019

Santiago, Spain

We were excited about our next adventure as Hospitaleras in Ribidaso. We left the Santa Cristina pension early Monday morning. Normally, we would have walked to the bus station but with Terry’s ankle injury were opting for cabs.

We had a very nice cab driver who picked us up near the Santa Cristina. She spoke very little English. We asked to go to the bus station. Every time we said, “bus”. She would say “train”. I repeated several times that we wanted the bus, autobus, station. She would say train. We pretty much know the way to the bus and she took a wrong turn. Terry called her on it and she said she needed to go down the road to make the turn. Next thing we know, we are at the train station. We finally got through to her that we wanted the bus station. I think she felt bad. She turned the meter off at that point but it still cost us more than it should have.

Big happy face in the window … that’s how I felt today.

Here is the entrance to the very small village of Ribadiso which is about an hour bus ride south of Santiago. It is located on the Camino. That narrow road over the 6th century bridge is what cars, trucks, cows, horses and people go over to enter the town. The Rio Iso (Iso river) flows under the bridge. It is a spring fed stream so it is much colder than most rivers. We’ve been told that there are fish in it, specifically trout and that a fishing license is needed to fish.

This is the two-bedroom cottage we will be staying in until October 15th.

The tile floors have steps going up to the dining room and bathroom and down into the bedroom.

This wall with a window separates the dining room from the tiny kitchen.

Tiny kitchen has everything but a microwave.

This is the living room.

This is the room I’m staying in showing the window side.

This is the closet side.

We are replacing volunteers Chuck and Linda from California. They trained us for our volunteer work that would start tomorrow, October 1. We all went to dinner at the convenient next door restaurant Meson Rural.

Meson Rural is a lively place that’s open from 6:30 am until 10:00 pm. In addition to food, they have WiFi.

Everyday we answer the question, “Where is a restaurant?” And literally, it is right next door. Meson Rural is on the left and the Albuergue is on the right.

Chuck introduced us to the Grande Cerveza that comes in a frosted mug. He and Linda have worked as Hospitaleros at several albuergues over the years. We had some very interesting conversations about caminoes, pilgrims and how they met. Linda is from San Diego and Chuck from West Bend, Indiana. They formally met at a national APOC (American Pilgrims on the Camino) meeting where Linda was making a presentation. Eventually they discovered that they had walked the Frances camino at the same time and attended the pilgrim’s mass at Santiago cathedral when the Irish carried a boat into the plaza. Chuck reviewed his photos from that trip and found Linda in his photos. They’ve been together ever since.

This is the Pension across from the Albuergue and Meson Rural. That is farmer Alfonso and two of his four cows.

The Albuergue has 62 beds and it was going to be full tonight. Chuck forwarned us that we would have a busy morning the next day. This is a municipal albuergue and they do not take reservations, however, a group of 40 people from Portugal were staying there tonight and they must have had connections because the beds were saved for them.

The group of 40 arrived but their support truck with food didn’t. They ate dinner very late.

The truck finally came. In addition to food they brought cookware, plates and utensils.

This is the Albuergue’s 16th century dining room and kitchen.

The modern microwave, stove, oven and sink look out of place against the old stone wall. Pilgrims staying at the albuergue are welcome to cook their meals in the kitchen/dining room.

After dinner, we wandered a bit and became familiar with the albuergue property while Chuck and Linda took a walk. All four of us were sharing the cottage tonight. The second bedroom has bunk beds which is where Terry and I stayed that night.

Chuck and Linda were leaving before 7:00 am the next day to catch a bus to their next adventure. We were tired from a long day of travel, transition and acclimating to our new environment. Everyone was in bed around 9:30 pm.

My bunk bed seemed a little short. I wondered if it were a youth-size bunk. I did some tossing and turning and then I hear singing and it had a religious tone to it. Maybe Chuck and Linda were listening to music in their room? Terry and I tried to assess where it was coming from and what it was. We assumed it was the Portuguese group. It was now about 10:30 pm and quiet hours start at 10:00 pm.

If I were a cat I’d be dead by now because curiosity is a motivating factor for me. I got out of bed, put on my flip flops and jacket. Unlocked the cottage door and went out in the dark to investigate. I walked to the other side of our building where the kitchen was. The door was shut but it was where the singing and talking was coming from. There were a few people sitting around.

Eventually I found an English speaker. He was part of the Portuguese group. He said that the group was having a Mass service in the kitchen and that is why they were singing. They didn’t have an opportunity to go to mass the day before on Sunday. They brought a priest in from Portugal to preside. The doors opened and happy chatty people poured out.

That’s all I needed to know and I went back to my bed. Things had quieted down for the night.


Back to Santiago

September 29, 2019

It’s a rainy Sunday morning in Finisterre. Our plan is to bus to Santiago, stay overnight there and then bus to Ribadiso. We will be staying in Ribadiso for 15 and working as volunteer Hospitaleras. Our stay in Ribadiso is sponsored by the American Pilgrims on the Camino organization. Basically, we will be greeting people who are walking the Frances camino, the 500 mile one that we walked three years ago. (It runs across Spain from France to Santiago which is near the ocean.) Our role there will be to greet people and assist those who are staying at the Ribadiso albuergue. We will be showing them where the showers are, the laundry, the kitchen if they want to cook and where their bed is located. This is the first time we have worked as Hospitaleras.

Not much to do on a rainy morning so it was the perfect time to do laundry. We met Bella from New Zealand who was busy washing clothes and bedding. She is retired and spends a lot of time traveling and decided she needed a place to call home. She bought a small condo in Finnisterre where she stays for a few months each year.

It was rainy and foggy so we took the direct bus into Santiago. It was freeway all the way and not much to see. Tonight we are staying at Pension Santa Cristina. It’s located very close to the San Martin Monastery and the back door of the Cathedral. It’s a quieter part of town than the La Tita in Old Town.

Our room at Pension Cristina was up 3-4 flights of stairs but very comfortable none-the-less. The pension had a small enclosed outdoor patio.

We found a great restaurant.

Grilled ox for dinner tonight.

This dish is called Padron Peppers.

Meet Ellen and George from Seattle. Very interesting people — George is an oceanographer and Ellen a mathematician. They talked a lot about their years working at Texas A&M university. They were thrilled to move back to the Seattle area. They were in Santiago for a relative’s wedding and heading home soon.


After Camino Ingles: Santiago to Finisterre

28 September 2019

Saturday morning in Old Town Santiago … charming but it was very noisy at night. Lots of people at the bar below us, street noise, revelers and more. Terry slept in while I scurried off to the Pilgrim Offiice. I wanted to get my Camino Ingles Compostela which is a document written in Latin stating when you started and finished your Camino. There is a second document that verifies the kilometers walked. To some it is just a piece of paper but not mine. When I look at it the feeling of the camino encompasses me and brings me back to Spain.

In the past, we never had a problem getting our Compostela. But that was usually in April or May. We would finish, then go to the Pilgrims’ office and stand in line for a half hour or 45 minutes. Now, at the end of September, there are many more people walking the different caminoes than ever before. They are having record breaking numbers.

Hospedaje La Tita in Old Town Santiago is a charming place to stay but in a very noisy area.

I left at about 8:30 to get my ticket for the Compostela line. The ticket has a QR code that can be scanned with a cell phone camera. It will tell you where you are in the line. People start standing in line at 6:00 am even though its very dark out and the office doesn’t open till 8:00 am.

At 8:45 am, the ticket I received was #514. At that time, they were serving #0036. I had hours to wait.

You must be in the Compostela line when your number is called. They are very strict. If you miss your number, you have to go get another ticket and start waiting all over again.

I wandered around for awhile and went back to our Hotel. We had to be out of our room by 11:00 am, so we grabbed our backpacks and left. Terry, who is still on crutches, had to wear her backpack. We meandered through the streets to the Pilgrims’ office.

Santiago is so full of energy and life. Interesting things everywhere.

Statues of these two characters can be found in the nearby Mirador Parque da Alameda.

We found a nice cafe near the pilgrim office to wait until my number was called.

This small cafe is a very busy place with many pilgrims waiting for their numbers. I went in to get coffee, juice or a croissant so many times that the server would laugh when he saw me coming.

Waiting, waiting, waiting. We are leaving for Finnisterre as soon as I get my Compostela. The last bus leaves at 3:30 pm. Hopefully, I will done by then.

When the line got close to my number I went into the office and stood with others who had upcoming numbers. Even though I wasn’t winning the lottery, it was exciting to be a few numbers away from #514.

Finally! Around 1:30 I went to the station indicated on the electronic board and processed my Compostela. You have to present your passport and credential with all of the stamps obtained along the way. A few questions are asked and then they finish the document by writing your name in Latin on it and sealing it with an embossed stamp. The credential is also stamped and sealed as completed.

Camino Ingles is completo!

We were waiting for a cab to take us to the bus station when we crossed paths with David from England whom I had met in Siguero. He was pleased to meet the injured Theresa I had talked about in Siguero.

We’re finally on the bus to Finisterre. An interesting man from Chicago sat across from us. His name is Mark and he is a retired film director and he now teaches.

We took the longer “scenic route” bus which goes along the coast to Finisterre. The direct bus in quicker but it’s mostly highway.

Unfortunately, we booked an albuergue several months ago when we didn’t know Terry would be on crutches. We arrived a little bit late and we were lucky they didn’t give our beds away. We got one upper and one lower bunk. It’s always been challenging for me to climb the ladder and maneuver with my new knee especially in the dark at night if I need to use the restroom. I offered to take the top bunk, but Terry refused.

By the time we got to Finisterre, we were very hungry.

We love the seafood and it’s always good there. We went to our favorite restaurant near the waterfront. The scallops were delicious and the seafood casserole has awesome assortment of delicacies.

Next stop is the lighthouse at the end of Finisterre to watch the sunset.

Part of our tradition is to have a gin & tonic at ‘the end of the earth’ which is what Finisterre is believe to be.

And it was a great sunset and finish to our Camino Ingles adventure.


Sigüeiro to Santiago

27 September 2019


Feeling a bit apprehensive, I got ready to walk the last 10-15 miles of the Camino into Santiago. Yes, I was spoiled because I always followed where Terry went. Now I had to think for myself and be cognizant of the trail markers especially when entering Santiago. Last Camino when we walked into Santiago from Camino Finisterre, we had a difficult time following the signs.

We are in the municipality of Oroso which has a lovely logo. (The last municipality was Ordes.) It’s been difficult to figure out how the autonomous community of Galicia is pieced together.

The map is of the province of A Coruna with its municipalities. A Coruna is a province in Galicia. I’m thinking it would be similar to our system of counties.

Today’s breakfast is very thinly sliced ham on toast.

Terry’s new boots were mailed home this morning. With crutches, she would have enough of a challenge transporting her backpack to Santiago.

Back on the road again. The Camino Ingles did not have much pilgrim traffic this time of year.

This is first snail I found that had a shell. Kind of like a backpack. Being a slow walker, I appreciate what snails go through.

This is somebody’s scary scarecrow. I wouldn’t want to cross paths with it at night.

Lazy day even for the cats and dog.

There were a few steep hills today but the view was worth it.

Lunch break — a bocadillo without Terry is like a day without sunshine hahah!

Lunch stop was at a conveniently located hotel with a cafe right on the trail. In the upper left corner of the photo is Merwyn and Debs (not a typo, she called herself Debs with an “s”). We met them a couple days ago. I chatted with them for a bit. They had already crossed paths earlier with Terry who was killing time at the cafe. Merwyn had some foot problems and Terry shared her ibuprofen with him and he was feeling much better.

The parking lot wall had a nice camino mural depicting the various stages of Camino Ingles.

The next part of the camino went through the “Enchanted Forest”.

It truly was enchanted. Many of the trees were covered with vines and it was a beautiful walk …

… until I came to the industrial area. Merwyn and Debs took a cab into Santiago from here. They have already walked the Camino once and had no interest in walking through the industrial section.

As I approached Santiago, I found the biggest grave yard ever. It was in the industrial area and from the outside looked like a construction site. I didn’t see a church anywhere.

I entered the gate and saw a long stretch of little stone mausoleums. Being a curious person, I needed to take a closer look.

The first mausoleum had a glass door on it. Some interesting artifacts of this person (or family). I wonder what the chicken was about.

Graves as far as the eye could see. It would have been easy to kill some time here but I needed to get moving. I had about 12-13 miles to cover today.

I could tell I was getting close to Santiago because the markers were vandalized. No directional arrow and no distance indicated. People like to take these for souvenirs even though you could buy replica’s in many of the souvenir shops.

It is a treasure hunt to find the yellow arrows. This one is painted on the street lamp and leads down the center of a street.

With arrow markers like these, I’m starting to get a little nervous about entering the city. I stopped at a cafe/bar for another stamp and WiFi. I turned on my phone and pulled up a map of my location.

A kind patron of the cafe/bar led me around a truck that was blocking the yellow arrow and he pointed to the direction. I wonder if the locals ever get tired of giving camino directions.

I can see the cathedral and now I’m on the last stretch into the city. Yay!

This is the bagpipe tunnel that leads into Cathedral square. Man on the left in photo is playing the bagpipes. The Frances and Ingles camino meet before the tunnel.

I have arrived at the Cathedral. I’m tired from the many miles covered today. I am happy to see the facade of the cathedral for the first time without scaffolding. I feel sad that Terry isn’t with me.

Many people are celebrating their arrival. I wasn’t in a celebratory mood. Time to move on and find the hotel where Terry is waiting.

I made my way through the old town streets and found Bar LaTita. With WiFi I texted Terry to let her know I had arrived. A very nice tapa arrived with my beer. It was the specialty of LaTita. It’s called a tortilla but was more like au gratin potatoes. Our room was above the bar …

… exactly five floors above it. The staircase shown here was made of stone. Terry said a kind woman she met in the bar carried her backpack up the stairs for her.

This is our room. It has a view. We shared a bathroom down the hall which was not a problem.

It was a very nice reunion. More tapas. We both made it to Santiago.

Terry crutched back to nearby Cathedral square so we could get the traditional photo in front of the cathedral.


A Calle to Sigüeiro

26 September 2019


There are two days left until we reach Santiago. Obviously, Terry would not be walking the rest of the way. Her walking camino had ended. We talked and she assured me that she would be fine taking a cab to our next hotel reservation and she would ice, elevate and rest. This left me to decide if I wanted to walk the remaining 20 miles by myself — an intimidating thought. I don’t speak much Spanish. I usually don’t pay much attention to the route because I’m slow and I follow Terry. Today’s route was about 6-7 miles, straight through with no stops, no cafe’s, nothing. I couldn’t think of a compelling reason not to walk. So, I walked alone today.

A cab took me to yesterday’s end point, the O Cruceiro cafe bar. There were several people waiting for it to open for coffee or breakfast. They waited a long time. It took them over an hour to catch up to and pass me.

Leaving A Calle, the houses were quite nice and well maintained.

This house had as cross tribute to the camino pilgrims.

In town house with horses.

Even banana trees grow here.

A lovely shaded walk.

Finally figured out what these trees are … if you break through the fuzzy green shell, it’s a chestnut.

Into the woods. It’s a little bit scary going alone.

I need to pay more at tention to the camino markers today.

This elf appeared from nowhere. He was very chatty and I couldn’t understand anything he was saying. Either he had a speech impediment or he was speaking Gallego or both. I wasn’t keen about hanging around to figure it out.

The leaves are changing color and it’s starting to feel like fall.

Corn harvesting time.

Sheep territory again.

I made it to the first picnic area much faster than I anticipated. Perhaps walking alone made me faster.

Grape arbor.

These are the smokers. I kept passing them when they stop for a cigarette break. I later found out from an English speaker in their group that they are retired Spanish military, mostly generals and colonels. They are walking Camino Ingles section by section. Every night a bus picks them up and they return to their hotel in Ferrol. The bus brings them back the next day to their starting point. I think the four men from Majorca that we met in Neda are with this group.

There is a long stretch of industrial buildings going into Sigüeiro.

There were no bathroom stops between A Calle and Sigüeiro. I wanted to find a secluded tree but pilgrims on the Camino kept coming to rest in the park which made it impossible.

I’ve reached Sigüeiro now and on a park path into the town.

I needed to get a stamp for my credential so I stopped at this cafe/bar. The server behind the bar was “in a hump” as a British woman commented to me. She was the only server working and there were many customers and dirty dishes everywhere. The British woman called out to her in English. The server snapped backed in English, “I only speak Spanish” and continued in her frenzy. Thank goodness I knew how to say, “cerveza por Favour”.

These delightful people struck up a conversation with me. Terry, the guy on the right and David, the guy on the left, had seen me wandering and wanted to know why I was alone. I think they were going to ask if I wanted to join there group. I told them about Theresa’s accident and they were very sympathetic. Now that I reached Sigüeiro I needed to find Theresa.

Into Sigüeiro. I needed to find Terry. And I did. She was the in the cafe at the albuergue we plannned to stay at. The taxi brought her there and poor Terry had to sit for hours and wait for me to arrive. We had lunch and got settled in our room.

I told her about the shoe store I saw on the way in. She got off her death bed (hahah) and wanted to crutch to the store. It was very close.

We loved the store. Everything is hand made.

These boots are a Galician style and found only here in Galicia.

What fun shoes …. but they cost about E110.

This is Ava. She made the boots. How often do you get to meet the person who made your shoes. Terry did buy some boots.

The store had such style … it was lovely!!!

Unfortunately, we had booked an albuergue. With Terry’s accident, we did not feel like sharing space with the world. The woman running the place put us in our own room even though there were two bunk beds and she could have squeezed two more people in. We were thankful.

Terry was still feeling a bit down and out, so I bought a few things at the Gadis grocery store for dinner. We had a bottle of wine, a bag of Mister Corn, olives and chips for dinner.


Bruma to A Calle

25 September 2019


Promptly at 8:30 am, Maria arrived at Nogallas hotel in Ordes. She dropped Henk and Annette from South Africa at their starting point. We said our goodbyes. It will probably be the last time we are able to connect with them because they were planning to arrive in Santiago on Friday and we planned for Saturday. Then Maria drove us to our starting point. After Bruma, Maria was no longer able to cab us to our destinations. She said it was out of her zone and it would be less expensive for us to call a local cab.

It was a foggy day and we started walking. We decided to extend our walk past Outiero to A Calle so we would have less of a walk tomorrow.

This is the parish of Ardemil.

Look, the Eiffel Tower! Not quite Paris but an interesting place none the less. Plenty of sculptures and very unique artwork around the Cafe Bar Uzal.

We were expecting great things at Cafe Bar Uzal and hoping to meet the artist or the creative mind behind the artwork. No such luck. It was a very ho-hum place.

Very nice, clean and somewhat boring compared to all the artwork outside.

We ordered cafe leche and split a Boar bocadillo.

This is one of my favorites. I call it “Three is a Crowd.”

Not a sculpture. These bossies have horns.

This was a giant dinosaur. After being on the camino for 7 days, it’s really fun to see this whimsical collection.

Apparently the dinosaur is eating a bad pilgrim.

Another beautiful house complete with flowers lining the front walkway.

Tree trimming looks like fun but not if that lady is yapping out orders.

Another beautiful horse.

Beautiful farm land with lots of sheep grazing.

This is the farmer. His name is Pepe and this is the farm he grew up on when he had ten siblings who all helped their parents work the farm.

Eventually all the sibling moved away. Pepe lived in England for many years so his English is very good. He has a daughter who still lives in England. He returned to the family farm and is the only one living there. Eventually, this beautiful farm will be abandoned because there is no one in the family to carry on with the farming tradition. This is very common problem in this area. It is not likely that someone will want to buy the rural farmland. Pepe is very sad about the situation.

After talking to Pepe for awhile, we move on down the road. This one is easy on the feet.

Interesting how the hedge is built into the stone wall.

We land at Cafe Bar Novo and cross paths with Merwyn and Debs. They are from England but bought a house in Galicia. We commiserated about the sad state of our leaders — Boris and the Donald and how much they look and act alike.

We also chatted with Walter and Mary Gratzia (Mary Grace) from Italy. Mary Grace is an interior designer and Walter is a mechanic in the food industry.

Another church and they are starting to all look alike from the outside. This one had a very interesting statue on the side. It appears to be someone who must have had their head chopped off … it has a very long knife blade across the neck. I tried researching it but no luck with this one.

The road leads us back into a town.

Looks like some type of carrier pidgeons.

And now the turkey yard with lots of young turks running around.

Modern vending machine not as good as a cafe bar. This must be the town of Outiero.

Back on the trail. A few more kilometers to A Calle.

Finally we reach A Calle. As we approach the town, we can hear the boom boom of fireworks and seen the decorations at the town entrance. We see the locals walking back home. I think we missed the festivities. Apparently, it is a feast day. They like to celebrate the saint days on Saturday, Sunday and Monday. It was mid-afternoon on Monday and I think it’s over.

Breaktime at the O Cruceiro in A Calle. We called a cab to take us back the Nogallas hotel in Ordes which is now only a few miles away.

While waiting for the cab, I walk down the street. There are two stands left from the festival. There is a special cookie associated with this festival or the town. I bought a bag for 3E. They were circle shaped with a hole in the middle and had a light glaze. Very slight flavor of almond or anise, maybe both.

This was our last night in Ordes at the Nogallas hotel. We decided to walk the town and have a good look. There are several buildings with murals painted on the wall.

Love this mural … it’s the ultimate grandma who is bigger than life.

This is the killer mural … literally.


Terry was minding her own business just walkin’ down the street. We found the above mural very interesting and wanted to get a better photo of it. Both sides of the street had some construction in the gutter/sidewalk area. Terry stepped to the edge of the sidewalk and was about to take a photo.

This photo does not do justice … this little cement gutter under construction was about a foot deep.

All of a sudden, as the edge of the sidewalk crumbled beneath her feet so she jumped over the gutter construction and just about landed on her feet … but not quite … both shins hit the edge of the curb. OUCH! I was the one doing the shrieking and screaming. Terry somehow flipped around and was sitting with her feet in the construction area. I could see the stars circling her head. He shins were scraped up pretty good. I think we were both in shock.

I asked her if she was ok. Her instant remark was “yeah, I’m fine. I just need to clean up my legs.” She tried to stand up and then I heard the sound of pain. “NO, I’m not ok. Get a doctor.” Her ankle was swelling fast.

Good news travels fast. The townspeople gathered quickly. They showed great concern. They brought water and then some sugar to put in the water. A young man named Jose showed up and he spoke both English and Spanish. He translated for the group. They felt it was important to call the police so they see how dangerous this sidewalk is. So we waited.

The compassion of the locals was very touching. A police officer came and assessed the situation. He called an ambulance from A Coruna. We waited some more.

The paramedic with translator Jose

The police officer and the paramedic carried Terry and the stretch over the construction and into the ambulance. The hospital was 200 meters away … about two blocks.

Another first! Neither Terry or I had ever ridden in an ambulance before.

I was hoping they would let me go with because I don’t know how I would have found Terry. Jose our translator also rode in the ambulance. He told the ER docs what had happened and kept us informed. He stayed until everything was taken care of. We were very lucky that there were no broken bones. The Ordes hospital did not have x-ray equipment. If there had been a sign of a break, Terry would have been ambulanced to Santiago.

The end result was a badly sprained ankle accompanied by scrapes and bruises. We took a cab back to the Nogallas hotel with a quick stop at the pharmacy for prescription Ibuprofin and a pair of crutches.

With Terry on her new European crutches and told to be non-weight bearing for a week … we had many decisions to make tonight. But … more important — dinner first.

With Terry settled in the room and ice on her ankle, I ran out to fetch dinner from a nearby restaurant. We had salad mixta, octopus empanadas, a pork and cabbage specialty of the restaurant and a bottle of wine.

What a lonnnnnggg day! Tomorrow would be even longer … for one of us.


Presedo to Bruma

24 September 2019


We started the day with a quick breakfast and Maria the cab driver picked us up promptly at 8:30. Since we would be staying in the Ordes Nogallas hotel, we did not need to carry full packs. Just water and snacks. It was very nice to be in the same place for three consecutive nights.

Maria brought us back to where we finished yesterday, the Mesón-Museo restaurant.

Henk and Annette from South Africa were also being shuttled around by. Maria. We all started out at Mesón-Museo. They are fast walkers and will arrive in Bruma before us.

It was very convenient that we could just walk through the gate behind the Mesón-Museo restaurant and be on the Camino.

The first critter we saw today was an orange snail with eyes. There were several orange snails on the trails today.

We started with a beautiful walk through the Galician landscape.

A historic wall blocks the view of Church of Santa Eulalia de Leiro.

This church has a very large cemetery attached to it. Down a flight of stairs behind the church is a small shrine and an open restroom with hot and cold running water. That’s a first.

We do stop and smell the roses and this one was a beauty.

We stopped to admire this house. I was chattering about how beautiful it was. I looked up and there was a woman watching us from the window. I was startled. After a little scream and some laughter, I greeted her and asked if I could take a photo.

There was a long climb on a gravel road. At least it wasn’t a steep climb like we had been experiencing the day before. It’s always reassuring to see a Camino marker and realize you’re walking in the right direction.

Another eucalyptus forest. Lovely to smell.

We came to a parque called Encoro de Beche. It has a small reservoir and a dam in addition to restrooms with running water, hand towels, soap and toilet paper. We don’t see such good facilities very often.

Typical rest break snacks.

As these people came walking up to the park, I mentioned to Terry that the guy reminded me of my old friend Raul from Argentina. I started laughing when Melena told me that she and Miguel were from Buenos Aires. I told her why I was laughing.

Also stopping to rest and chat is pilgrim Juan Manuel from the Canary Islands.

Back on the trail we see a camouflaged tree house that some one is living in.

This is an amazing flower. We haven’t seen one like it anywhere.

Back on the road and the climb levels out but soon becomes steep.

We walked the fenced circumference of what appears to have been a very large chicken farm. No chickens in sight here.

A wonderful view from the top — there’s a village but it’s hard to see in this photo.

If you like mushrooms, Ordes is the place to be. They hold the Festa do Champinon (mushroom festival) during the last weekend of April.

Coming out of the woods and entering the outskirts of the village of Bruma.

A rooster and a few hens in a yard as we get closer to our Bruma destination.

A little rest stop.

The little village is in sight. Perfect pumpkins growing through the fence.

Next to the Bruma albuergue is a small stream that runs through the town.

Finally we have made it to Bruma and stop at the Casa Grana restaurant. Henk and Annette had been there for hours and had finished lunch. They were going to get a head start on the next day’s miles and walk a few kilometers. They asked us to pick them up on our cab ride back to Ordes and the Nogallas hotel which is where they too were staying tonight.

Casa Grana was an interesting restaurant with a big hearth shown in the upper left corner of the photo. The lunch crowd was just starting to clear out. Having just finished a strenuous 10 mile day, we opted for the pilgrim’s lunch which started with salad mixta. Terry had the chicken and I had pork. The bartender was kind enough to call Maria our cab driver for us. We did find and pick up Henk and Annette on our way out of town.

Next to the restaurant was an old church. We couldn’t find a name or any markings. This was our end stop for today and our starting place for tomorrow.

We were back in Ordes at the Nogallas hotel where we connected with Henk and Annette. We all went to the Verde Galicia Pulperia which specializes in Octopus. It is across from our hotel. Wine was served in these funny little cups. I was the only one with a wine glass and beer was served in it.

Iberico ham is one of the delicacies of Spain and it is found everywhere. It is sliced very thin and often served as a tapa with a slice or two of bread.

Interesting stonework on the entrance of Verde Galicia Pulperia.

Artwork on the entrance wall to the Pulperia. Combination of corks and moss and plants.

We ended the day with a gelato-like sorbet.


Betanzos to Presedo

23 September 2019


We started the day with breakfast at Hotel Garelos. It cost about 5E and included the usual assortment of breads, meat, cheese, fruit, cereals, yogurt, juice and coffee. No eggs.

Most of the people in the breakfast room were from Spain or Europe.

Terry is working on today’s route with the guidebook and our South African friends Annette and Henk are getting ready for their walk.

It’s very common for hotels to offer a buffet type breakfast.

This is a residence complex. Today is a very strenuous hike uphill.

There’s no glory in climbing a mountain if all you want to do is get to the top. It’s experiencing the climb itself — in all its moments of revelation, heartbreak, and fatigue — that has to be the goal.” Karyn Kusama, American Film Director

Mural to Fatima on the Terrace Wall

You know you’re going the right way when a pilgrim image is pointing to the direction.

By the time we reached the railroad tracks, the climb was almost over.

We always stop to smell the roses and other flowers.

These looks like Fuchia and they are growing wild here.

This looks like a holly tree with a rose growing in front of it. We have seen a wide variety of flowers and plant life … even succulents growing in this area.

Not sure what these are but I love the purple color.

Finally a nice road, in the tranquil country side and it’s not uphill.

A little river breaks up the walk giving us something new to look at.

On the edge of town, we start to see houses and guard dogs. This one doesn’t look too ferocious.

Entering the town of Cos and a pile of timber waiting to be moved.

Lovely old chapel in the Parroquia San Esteban De Cos. The courtyard of the church grounds was open but not the church itself.

Sheep grazing in the field. Presedo is getting closer.

The view of a hillside village can be seen from the Camino.

Dos cerveza por favour! Time for another stamp in the credential. We need to obtain two stamps per day in order to receive our Compostela at the end of the Camino in Santiago. It is suppose to prove that we walked it.

These are the door markers for the men’s and ladies rest rooms at the little tavern we stopped at. I had to look twice to figure it out — the Lady is blowing smoke rings with a cigarette. The man has a pipe.

Terry missed the signage. She excitedly reported that the bathroom had a “squatty-pottie”. I didn’t think so but took a second look anyway. It was the Men’s room and it had a floor urinal — no squatty-pottie. We had a good laugh and I was relieved to hear that Terry had used the correct restroom and not the squatty.

Beautiful yard full of flowers on the way to Sequero.

Not sure what these clusters of pine are but in this area we saw them hanging in a few places.

Finally — the outskirts of Presedo. We were very tired because of the steep hills. We had planned to stay at the Presedo Albuergue, which is the only place in town to stay. It has only 16 beds and it’s first come. We are slow walkers and were pretty sure that we would not get beds. Our good friend Begonia from our Betanzos hotel had called ahead to reserve beds for us. She was told that there was a big party in town and that we should not plan to stay there. We made reservations at Nogallas Hostal in the nearby town of Ordes and would have to take a cab back and forth.

We did walk by the Presedo albuergue and there was a line of pilgrims waiting around 2:00 pm. The albuergue never opened. The “party” we had been forewarned of was a feast day celebration for San Antonio who was probably the patron saint of the area.

Our end stop for the day was at a funky restaurant called Mesón-Museo. It was calling us.

We were so ready for some vino tinto.

This is Caldo Gallego. It is a specialty soup with potatoes, greens and chicken broth.

I also had cuddlefish served on potatoes. Terry had a salad mixta and a chickpea & sausage soup that reminded me of Pozole.

This is our cab driver Maria. She is a friend of Begonia from our hotel in Betanzos. The next two towns also had very small Albuergues. We decided not to take a chance getting stuck without beds so we booked the Nogalles hotel in Ordes for three nights. Maria was going to drive us back and forth to our end and starting points.

This is the strangest dinner ever. It was in the small dining room of the Nogallas hotel. We’re not sure what the attendant was trying to tell us but we ended up with a casserole kind of thing. It was a combination of potatoes, green beans and a hard boiled egg cut in half. Add the bread and that was dinner. We had a big lunch that day, so it was fine. Don’t think I’d order it again.


Miño to Betanzos

22 September 2019


Leaving LaTerraza Hostal in Miño, we start walking through the village on the Camino.

La Terraza was a good place to stay — very comfortable and convenient location.

Miño is a coastal town with three beaches. The Playa Grande is a sandy beach with calm waters.

A boardwalk leads through the park.

… And along a river with fishing boats.

Not sure what this interesting vine or plant is.

Here we come upon a statue that represents the noble Andrade family.

It’s a bear and a boar that represent the Andrade family … this image looks like a combination of the two.

Beautiful houses along the river trail.

The freeway lanes pass high over the village and looks very out of place in this serene setting. It looks like it would be really scary to drive over it too.

A beautiful walk today … at least here. It became very hilly with lots of ups and downs.

Lots of squash and pumpkins growing everywhere.

Ancient Galician bridge over the Miño river.

The Miño river is the longest river in Galicia and in the south, it shares the border with Portugal.

This cute little pup was so small he was able to escape through the lattice bars of the gate. Terry put him back in through a lattice opening and he jumped back out before she could turn around.

Looking back down a steep hill I just climbed.

This fountain flowing with spring water has been around since 1884. It is a very refreshing rest stop.

We started seeing these funny trees.

Gray mare in the barn eating squash.

Lots of squash piled up in the barn for the horse.

Down another steep hill. The countryside is beautiful.

These are the first grapes we’ve ever seen in Spain. We’re usually here in April or May and there’s nothing on the vines at that time.

Little colt on the hill.

Country church surrounded by a grave yard. Very common in Spain.

What goes up must come down. Lots of steep climbs today.

Just past the vineyard we can see Betanzos.

Another church on the way into town.

Over another river and on to Betanzos which maintains an authentic medieval feel. Until the 19th century it was the capital of the province of Galicia and home to the legendary Andrade family, the feared feudal lords of Galicia. Notice the white Galician glass balconies and red tiled roofs that cut into the hill, There is no formal town plan and no symmetry in the way the town evolved.

The Betanzos river splits into two branches that surround the city, the Rio Mendo on one side and the Rio Mandeo on the other.

The medieval gate into Old Town Betanzos is called the Arco da Ponte Nova. It is one of the original entry gates in the medieval wall. Once through the gateway it’s a steep climb into the old quarter.

A view from the other side looking out of the gothic gateway.

The medieval plaza of old town Betanzos with the focal point of the Church of Santo Domingo.

This is our hotel for tonight — Hotel Garelos.

Nice room. Very comfortable.

This is Begonia, the front desk person at the Garelos. She spoke English and was a wealth of information. It took us an hour to check in because she talked a lot and enthusiastically gave us a tour of some rooms.

This statue in the town square is of the brothers Garcia Naveira, to whom the square is dedicated and who were huge benefactors to the city.

Doorway of the Church of San Francisco. The tympanum (arched area above door) has a representation of the Adoration of the Kings and Saint Francis.

Later we met up with Henk and Anitz from South Africa. We went out for a beer, did some touring and had dinner together.

This small tavern was our first stop.

Betanzos is known for its Tortilla de Betanzos which is basically a very runny version of an omelette. Terry and I ordered a couple pieces … sorry, we ate it before we remembered to take a photo. It was savory and delicious. I did take a photo of the “salad”. It was tomato slices halved with onion and bathed in olive oil. It looked awesome and tasted awesome too.

On the way back to the hotel we cut through the old town square by the fountain of Diana the Huntress. It is a cast iron copy of the statue housed in the Louvre.

What a long day.


Pontedeuma to Miño


21 September 2019

Pontedeuma is a beautiful town which has developed over time thanks to its historical and heavily-trafficked bridge. Located at the mouth of the Eume River on the side of Breamo Hill, it maintains its medieval feel and preserves the legacy of the Andrade family who played a pivotal role in the town’s growth.

This bronze statue is called “The Panadera” (the bread woman) in the plaza del Pan (the Plaza of Bread).

Ancient statue of a monk greets those climbing the stairs to the Church of Santiago.

Galician two-sided crosses are commonly found on street corners.

A local enjoying the morning sun on her patio.

Lots of gardens everywhere with fall harvest in abundance. Looks like a watermelon.

Not sure what these are … squash? Pumpkin?

Morning glories seem to grow everywhere.

And the road continues.

This is the first time we’ve ever seen grapes on the Camino. The previous two caminoes were during the months of April and May which are too early for grapes on the vine./

This is the bread truck on his route. He pulls up and beeps the horn. Someone usually runs out of the house to get the bread …

And at some houses, they leave the bread hanging on the door or in a special bread box.

The camino cuts through a golf course.

There was actually a golfer golfing over the camino.

And the camino continues after cutting through a golf green.

We saw berries that looked like raspberries and blackberries coming from the same vine. They tasted terrible.

A horreo (corn crib) with a wonderful view.

Freshly painted house with color coordinated gate and horreo.

This giant fungi (about 10″ in diameter) was awesome looking but it is the enemy of the Eucalyptus trees.

Interesting stop sign graffiti.

Stopped at a coffee shop that had a statue of a pilgrim and his dog.

The coffee shop owner was happy to chat about the other antiques she had on display.

Snow White and the seven dwarfs on a display shelf on somebody’s second floor shelf.

Finally, we reached our destination, the La Terraza hotel.

The room was very similar to last night’s accommodations at Hostal Luis.

We joined Annette & Henk for tapas at a convenient restaurant across the street from our hotel. Then we all went shopping at the nearby Gadis grocery store.

It was cold and raining and we were tired from the day’s walk, Dinner from Gadis grocery store served in what Terry called, the “top drawer deli”.


Neda to Pontedeuma

20 September 2019


It wasn’t even daylight when we left the room at about 7:40 am. Since the little cafe under our room didn’t open until 8:00 we sat down on the steps and waited. Eventually a group of four men showed up and were also expecting the cafe to be open. One of them asked us “Ocho? Ocho?” We nodded and we all waited. They spoke Spanish and were from the Isle of Majorca (in the Mediterranean) which is located just off the east coast of Spain.

We had a quick breakfast of coffee and toast. The cost is 2 euro which is just a little bit more than $2.

The gents of Majorca are getting ready to hike out. We never caught up to them.

Lemon trees are everywhere.

Leaving Neda, we walked this lovely boardwalk around the Ria de Ferrol.

It’s always interesting when your walking through the countryside.

Great views of the village from another boardwalk.

This is the biggest snail I’ve ever seen. I think it was a good 5-6″ long.

This seemed to be the hot spot for taking a lunch break on the Camino today.

We took a break with Annette (and Henk) from South Africa.

This Siamese tabby shows off its tabby tail.

Today’s Camino walk had several lovely trails. We prefer the dirt trails.

This kind old dog escorted me off its property. No barking, just showed me the way.

Lots of apples hanging from trees. An entrepreneur of apple sales left a donation box along with apples in a chair making it convenient for pilgrims.

Your choice … long route or the short route that has one dangerous crossing. We took the short route. It wasn’t that dangerous.

A beautiful wall of what appears to be morning glories.

I’m a fan of sponge Bob. The rabbit it cute too.

Entering the Pontedeuma area with a view of Rio Eume.

We seem to be keeping pace with Henk and Annette. Time for a cerveza before they stopped for the day at Cabanas. We were trekking on to Pontedeuma.

We continued across the Pontedeuma bridge. The water was very clear and we could see large fish from the bridge. Many colorful fishing boats moored in the riverside gave this town the feel of a fishing village.

Pontedeuma is a medieval city with narrow streets cut into a steep hillside. We stayed in the old quarter.

Hostal Luis above Restaurant Luis is our final destination today. And a very noisy one. When we arrived around 2:30 pm, the restaurant was packed with locals enjoying Friday afternoon. Also, there is a popular square across the street from the restaurant.

Across from Hostal Luis, is a cement park where everyone hangs out. The parents sit at the outdoor restaurant while the kids play soccer on a very slanted court.

Salad mixta was the start of our Octopus dinner at Restaurant Luis.

Our room was small but very tidy and clean. Glad to be done walking for the day.


Ferrol to Neda

19 September 2019


Time to leave the Parador and hit the road to Neda. Finally, we are starting Camino Ingles. We were packed up and out of the room by 8:00 am but it was still dark outside. Couldn’t resist — had to have breakfast at the Parador.

The breakfast room at the Parador.

Among the items offered was an assortment of fresh fruit.

The Camino route took us through the main shopping street of Ferrol. We found an unusual statue. Viewing through American eyes, one would think this was a member of the Ku Klux Klan, a white supremacist hate group. Through Spanish eyes, it is a penitent from the Semana Santa procession that takes place the week before Easter. It has no sinister significance and, in fact, their symbolic meaning of the cone-shaped hat is that it is rising to heaven and bringing the penitent closer to heaven. It’s still scary looking.

The route passes by a number of Naval training bases.

… and a few churches.

The coastal views continue as the route wraps around Praia de Caranza, a volleyball beach (shown below).

Coffee break time! Chatted with a nice couple from Pretoria, South Africa … Annette and Henk. Being it was our first day on the Camino, chances are good that we’ll be crossing paths with them again.

Back on the road and through the industrial area. Not very interesting.

Oooops! We got on this path by mistake. It was very eroded, full of vines with thorns and led to a drainage tunnel where either a troll or an axe murderer lived. We quickly realized the error and got out of there.

The pampas grass is beautiful and it’s everywhere.

This is the monastery of St. Martin. It appears that someone is living there or at least having services there but we found it to be totally quiet.

We took a little break in the shade. It was very warm — maybe in the high 70s and full sun.

It’s nice to be out walking in the country again.

Even though we took the shorter route, it was miserable walking along the sandspit area in the heat and full sun.

Finally over the footbridge and into Neda. Day 1 accomplished.


On to A Coruna

16 September 2019

Late to bed, early to rise. All packed up and heading for the subway station on a brisk Tuesday morning. The air was crisp with a light breeze and the narrow streets were already humming with activity. The sound of suitcase wheels being dragged over cobblestone, diesel engines, supplies being unloaded from trucks, the rev of motor scooters and the clink of coffee cups from outdoor cafes serenaded us as we scurried down Calle de Carettas to the Metro.

Puerto del Sol was buzzing with energy. The usual tourists and tourist magnets were gearing up for the day. We entered the outer hump entrance of the Metro station and descended down several escalators and through ticket gates. We have become somewhat competent at maneuvering the subways and found our track. It was packed with morning commuters. We squeezed into the crowded car and a half dozen people squeezed in along with us. The Metro trains not only allow bicycles but scooters too. The ride to the airport was not pleasant but that’s the reality of rush hour on a Tuesday morning.

Our flight to A Coruna on a mid-size Iberia airbus was short and sweet. I was delighted to find recipes for Gallago Octopus and Paella (in Spanish and English) in one of the airplane seat pocket magazines. We chose to do the cheap flight alternative so that meant we didn’t get to choose seats. I had a window seat with two locals sitting next to me … Señora Dona and Señor Macho. The flight attendant was nice enough to move Mr. Macho to a better seat so we could all spread out. Mrs. Dona didn’t understand this. She rattled something to me in Spanish. I smiled and said, “habla usted English?” She looked at me, laughed and indicated that she spoke very little English. Then she said, “you English”. I nodded. In broken english she communicated that the flight attendant wanted both of us to move over to the open aisle seat. I said I wanted to stay by the window. She said ok and remained in the middle seat. The plane was stuffy and I don’t know how she survived in her thermal outer jacket. Her arm was secured by the arm rest and her elbow was poking into my ribs the entire flight. The seat next to her remained empty. At least it was a very short flight.

It was a quick Uber ride to our hostel. Like pack mules we hiked up three generous flights of stairs to our room with backpacks in tow. It was small, clean and comfortable with a large window draped so you couldn’t tell you were looking at a wall.

After settling in and shedding the hiking boots, we went out to explore. We chose to stay at Hostel Linar because it was located in the middle of two bodies of water. One was a beach and the other a harbor. Both were a short walk from the Hostel in opposite directions.

Being a warm, sunny day we chose to do the beach side first. We took the higgely piggely route because there is no other way to get there. Weaving through the town’s small narrow streets we window shopped and made a few stops. The cool breeze and smell of salt water led the way. One of the interesting things about A Coruna are the beautiful glass fronted balconies.

A Coruna is often called the Crystal City because of the glass fronted balconies on the sea promenade. On a clear day when the sun faces the harbor front during the evening, the reflection can be blinding.

It was about 80 degrees and sunny. The long sprawling beach was empty. Sun bathers were few and far between even though it felt like a beach day to us Minnesotans. A Coruna has a population of about 200,000 … where was everybody? Maybe this felt cold to them and September isn’t typically a ‘beach’ month and maybe not high season for tourists. We saw a few unsuccessful surfers. The waves just weren’t there today. And yes, the water was cold.

There are five beaches in the A Coruna area.

After testing the water, we spread out a Zubana (backpacker’s lightweight nylon version of a ground cloth) and began to enjoy the sun, sand and surf. The grainy sand was coarse and it felt good to grind my feet around in it. There was something sparkly in its composition. I examined it carefully but couldn’t identify what it was. For a brief moment, I thought about bringing some sand home to add to my beach sand collection which was started many years ago with several sands from Hawaii. I quickly realized that it would not be a good idea to haul it around in my backpack for five weeks. Customs might not like it either.

Looks like were the only ones on the beach today.

After we soaked up enough sun to feel rested and replenished with vitamin D, we set out for the harbor side. It was a slow walk because we went down the shopping street instead of the sea promenade. So many interesting things to look at. We have become Hyper Bazaar junkies. This store is a version of the dollar store but on steroids.

We weren’t really looking for anything but enjoyed perusing the maze-like aisles. Around every corner is a surprise … it could be hardware, cookware, toys, underwear, lawn ornaments and lots of plastic stuff.

Welcome to the Real Bazaar store! Very similar to Hyper Bazaar.

Tons of merchandise is compacted into an extremely small store space. Anything you might need to survive the Camino can be found for cheap at the Hyper Bazaar. They have many locations all over Spain and they are usually run by Asians.

It was about 3:00 pm and we hadn’t eaten since the fast food quiche found at the airport. Hunger was setting in. We beelined to the harbor side.

The harbor side promenade was interesting but not as pretty as the beach side. Lots of sailboats.

Terry with a giant flock of parrots.

We are back in the land of big drinks and tapas. Gin Tonica hits the spot followed by calamari, croquettes and Russian salad which is similar to what we know as potato salad.

From our seaside table Terry, who is employed as a business administrator for a church in St.Paul, Minnesota was conducting daily business via cell phone. What a lovely place to work from.

On to Old Town

We went to the Maria Pita square which was beautiful but a little quiet. Maria Pita lived in the 16th century and was a heroine in the defense of Coruna.

Leaving the square, we entered what is known as old town.

We continued walking around Old Town until we realized there were many flights of stairs to reach the rest of old town.

After a long day of hiking around, I wasn’t too excited to climb the stairs. It wasn’t just a few steps, it was many. I spotted something that looked like an elevator. Out of curiosity, I had to see what this elevator thing was. As I thought, it was an elevator but it looked more like a grain silo. I really wanted to ride it and so we did.

This is the elevator we took out of curiosity and to avoid flights of stairs.

The “grain silo’ style elevator had a glass ceiling and walls.

We stumbled across a beautiful courtyard with very tall trees that canopied the square.

Large blossoms hung from trees.

As we were soaking in the ambiance, we discovered a church. Of course we had to take a look at it. We circled to the front and eventually tried the door. Disappointed, we started to walk away when a local came running up to us and started speaking in Spanish.

The Church of Santiago La Coruna

He pulled out a ring of keys and directed us to the side door. To the best of my Spanish knowledge, he kept saying he was San Pedro. We just laughed and smiled as he led us into the dark church.

We sat down in pews as he locked the door and walked away. We were in the dark. Slowly and dramatically the lights went on one by one. Eventually, he came back and opened the main doors. This church had really good energy.

Santiago La Coruna is an ancient monument built in the 17th century. It is the start of the English Camino pilgrimage that leads to the tomb of Santiago (aka St. James) the apostle in Compostela.

San Pedro (aka Saint Peter) holds the key to heaven.

As we were leaving the Church of Santiago La Coruna, we crossed paths with a young man from the Netherlands named Thomas. He was starting his Camino the next day. This church was the start of the A Coruna leg of the Ingles Camino. We will be starting from the Ferrol branch which is longer.

Buen Camino! Terry chatted with a pilgrim from the Netherlands who was starting the Ingles Camino.

This was Thomas’s first Camino and he was very excited to start. Perhaps we will cross paths with him somewhere. We wished him a Buen Camino and we were all on our way.

Shoes and Tambourines

Heading back to the Hostal, we made one major stop. Terry has a fondness for footwear stores and this one was a gem. It was a combination shoe store and tambourine store. That is not a spell check error. Yes, I said shoes and tambourines. Both are made by hand at this store and you can pick the color and fabric of the shoes you want.

Handmade shoes and handmade tambourines.

You can buy a tambourine to match your shoes.

There was even a pair of tambourine boots. Can you imagine Mick Jagger, Prince or James Brown bangling around in these??

Terry was in shoe heaven and needed to call her daughter Helen in Peru for shoe consultation. There are only two places you can buy these shoes one being the store in A Coruna and the other in Pontevedre, Spain. The brand is Eferro and they do have a website which is quite interesting to look at.


We made a pit stop at our hostal to freshen up and then hit the streets again to find dinner. Being in a harbor town, we were looking for seafood.

Sea Scallops hit the spot.

Another pleasant day in Spain. Our next stop is the nearby city of Ferrol.