It was a long but immersive two weeks through French Canada. By the end of our whirlwind weekend in NYC, our feet had logged plenty of miles and our eyes had taken in a feast of sights. Megan had checked off most of her must-sees — and even squeezed in a few unexpected gems. After all the energy and chaos of the city, we were both ready to trade the buzz for a bit of calm and start the journey home.
We spent hours in the car driving across Pennsylvania from New York to Ohio which offers a scenic blend of rolling hills, mountain tunnels and quiet farmland, gradually shifting from East Coast bustle to Midwest calm.
Every now and then, we pulled over to stretch our legs and take a breather. Wawa gas stations are more than just a place to fill up your tank — they’re a beloved East Coast institution, especially in Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and surrounding states.
The name Wawa comes from Lenni Lenape (Delaware Native American) word meaning “wild goose.” The company adopted the Canada goose as its logo in honor of the name and the region’s history.
Wawa has a cult following for its coffee bar — lots of options, seasonal flavors, and self-serve ease.
Megan was a rockstar behind the wheel — she handled the driving like a pro and made great time. She also nailed the trip planning, with a well-researched list for every stop and a satisfying checkmark for each one.
One of her big goals was to speak French with the locals, and she definitely made it happen — chatting confidently and connecting with people along the way. Megan definitely passed the ‘Oh Canada! French Road Test’ with flying colors.
I’m not familiar with WaWa gas stations, but I do remember when we used to have 7-Eleven stores in Minneapolis — back in the day.
Now, they seem to be everywhere along the Ohio highways. I’ve never seen such a striking display of Bible-themed merchandise at a rest stop before — it was like a mini Christian gift shop tucked between the Slurpees and snacks.
Just a few more hours on the road before we roll into Cincinnati.
We finally made it to our Cincinnati destination — and what a relief it was to stretch our legs after the long drive. Megan was welcomed with tail wags and kisses from Scout, who clearly missed her.
Meanwhile, I had my own breakthrough — knitting and purling finally clicked! Megan said I was at it for two solid hours in the car, but I was so focused, I barely noticed the miles go by.
We did it — two weeks side by side, around the clock, through all the twists and turns that travel throws your way. We came away wiser, more cultured, thoroughly entertained and with plenty of stories to tell. I’d say that’s a win!
After days of adventures, we were both feeling ready to start making our way back home. There’s one more stop on the route — New York City — a vibrant mosaic of culture, ambition and resilience … the city that never sleeps.
After many hours in the car, we landed at a hotel near the Brooklyn and Manhattan bridge.
Downtown Brooklyn begins here! These two rotating statues have an interesting background. One is Miss Brooklyn and the other is Miss Manhattan — modern recreations of historic allegorical figures. To me, they resemble the butter-Queen sculptures at the state fair.
The rotating Miss Brooklyn and Miss Manhattan are not just art — they’re urban time travelers. Deemed a traffic hazard in the 1960s, the statues were removed and relocated to a museum. Now, sixty years later, they’ve made a striking return — thoughtfully positioned to remain visible from afar while safely elevated above the road.
In New York, the art isn’t just in museums — it’s on the sidewalks and in the fascinating parade of people passing by.
Speaking of fascinating people, in the photo below, Megan and I are the bookends with Arthur and my niece Leah in the middle. It was the one-year anniversary of the grand opening of Leah’s coffee shop called Falu House located in the Teak store found in the Greenpoint neighborhood of Brooklyn.
After the party at Falu House and Teak, we enjoyed a beautiful sunset on the ferry back to downtown Brooklyn.
The Ferry is one of New York City’s best-kept secrets — and one of my favorite things to do in NYC. It offers an affordable, scenic, and relaxing way to travel across the city’s waterways. It’s public transit with a view!
The ferries were launched in 2017 to provide an alternative to crowded subways and buses, connecting waterfront neighborhoods.
One of my exploratory outings this weekend was to the Brooklyn Flea in DUMBO (Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass) which offers a vibrant mix of vintage treasures, handmade goods and tasty local bites — all set against the dramatic backdrop of the East River. True to its name, it’s tucked right beneath the towering bridge, giving the market an unmistakable urban charm.
And up above … walking across the Brooklyn Bridge is a quintessential New York experience — equal parts iconic sightseeing, urban architecture and riverside serenity.
The weekend was a whirlwind of walking, touring, subways, ferries, museums, libraries, stores, parks, rivers, beaches and restaurants.
New York City is exhilarating, but after two weeks of constant exploration, it can feel almost overwhelming. As the sun dipped behind the Brooklyn Bridge, we found ourselves ready to return home — grateful for the city’s magic, but yearning for the comforts of home.
Warm summer evenings were made for exploring Old Québec’s lively nightlife and hidden gems.
Onhwa’ Lumina is an enchanting night‑walk experience located just north of Quebec City. It’s a nighttime trail where light, sound, and storytelling celebrate Huron-Wendat culture. It blends tradition with technology, drawing you into a rhythmic, immersive journey through nature and heritage.
Ancestral wisdom and timeless expertise are gracefully interwoven into the story, paying tribute to the Huron-Wendat people and the knowledge they’ve preserved across the ages.
Bonfires and torches lit the path through a beautiful forest trail, casting a warm glow on the trees. It stirred a deep longing to go camping again.
One evening after a full day of walking and sightseeing, we found the spa to be a welcome retreat. We headed to Strøm Nordic Spa, beautifully nestled along the scenic banks of the St. Lawrence River in Old Québec.
Strøm offers the full Nordic thermal ritual — alternating hot (Saunas, steam baths, thermal pools) and cold (Nordic plunge baths, waterfalls, chilly showers), followed by soothing relaxation areas. This cycle — heating, cooling, resting — supports blood circulation, stress relief, and overall well-being
We arrived at Strøm in the evening, where torchlight and glowing bonfire kettles illuminated the space — magical yet challenging to capture on film. These snapshots are from their marketing collection.
French cuisine was a must on our list, and what better place to start than the inviting little French restaurant just below our rental.
Le 101 Restaurant de Quartier offers a beautifully curated 4‑course tasting menu, which can be paired with wine selections by their in‑house sommelier. They serve contemporary French cuisine, often with creative interpretations of classics. Dishes highlight local and seasonal ingredients.
It’s considered bistronomy — where bistro comfort meets gastronomy. You get refined flavors without the stuffy atmosphere.
All the specialty cocktails were playfully named after staff members. I chose “The Sandra,” (shown above) which is a unique blend of gin, mango, Vitelotte potato, mint, orange bitters, and lemon.
The tasting courses were on the smaller side, but each one packed a punch — thoughtfully composed, full of flavor, and surprisingly satisfying.
The chef stopped by our table to ask about dietary preferences and any food allergies — an attentive touch. Megan enjoyed chatting away in French with locals, seizing every chance to practice.
We found plenty of ways to enjoy Québec City’s warm summer nights — and even more reasons to return.
We loved our time in Québec City, but the surrounding region offers plenty more to discover.
To explore both shores of the St. Lawrence, we hopped on the Québec-Lévis ferry for a quick 10-minute ride across the river. The crossing offers stunning views of Château Frontenac, Old Québec, and the waterway itself. On the Lévis side, the ferry docks in the heart of the historic district, where scenic parks, walking trails and charming cafés overlook Québec City from across the river.
We stepped off the ferry into a lovely little park, perfect for kicking back, soaking up the view, and doing some first-rate people-watching.
Splash pad for cooling off on a hot dayTotally relaxing vibeInteresting people and dog watching
As for that knitting education — it’s coming along, slowly but surely. Getting my hands, needles, and yarn to cooperate has been a bit of a juggling act. It hasn’t quite clicked yet, but I’m getting there.
Our touring included a visit to Montmorency Falls (Chute Montmorency) which is a breathtaking natural wonder about eight miles east of Old Québec. The Montmorency River dramatically plunges into the St. Lawrence River and stands nearly 100 feet taller than Niagara Falls. It is the highest waterfall in Québec and one of the most stunning in Canada.
The zip line delivers a dramatic rush as you soar high above the roaring waterfall — your feet dangling in midair, mist brushing your face, and the thunder of the cascade echoing below. Sounds exhilarating but not for me … I’ll take the stairs.
A wooden staircase winds down the side of the falls, offering incredible up-close views of the crashing water and misty spray as you descend.
The cool, misty spray at the base of the falls was a welcome relief on such a hot and humid day — like nature’s own air conditioning.
At the lower level of the park, a pleasant walkway loops around, leading back toward the base of the waterfalls.
Near the cable car terminal stands a cheerful statue of Bonhomme Carnaval — the beloved, pudgy snowman serves as the mascot of Québec’s Winter Carnival. We rode the cable car back to the top, enjoying one last sweeping view of the falls followed by a little break in the shade.
Montmorency Falls was a highlight of our Canada tour — breathtaking views, fun trails, and definitely a must-see!
The drive from Montreal to Quebec City is about three hours. Halfway is a charming little town called Trois-Rivières — the perfect stopping point for stretching legs and coffee.
As the name suggests, the city sits at the mouth of the Saint‑Maurice River, which splits into three channels before joining the St. Lawrence, creating the “three rivers”. Founded in 1634, it is the second-oldest settlement in North America
Parc Portuaire in Trois‑Rivières is a charming riverside park situated in the historic Old Town along the St. Lawrence River.
Dominating the riverside promenade, is a whimsical kinetic metal sculpture. Created in 1984 by Jean‑Jacques Besner, its rotating metal panels evoke both conifers and ship sails — reflecting the area’s forestry and maritime heritage.
In the historic core of Trois‑Rivières, many stone and brick homes still showcase their original spiral staircases — elegant reminders of French colonial architecture adapting to Quebec’s evolving urban fabric.
These graceful spirals harken back to 19th century building trends across Québec, where exterior stairs were common. Yet when winter arrives, their elegant curves take on a more treacherous twist — locals jokingly refer to them as ‘slippery spirals,’ as ice transforms each graceful step into a cautious adventure.
Three Rivers was an absolute gem — and now we’re ready to press on toward our next destination. Back on the road, we could feel our destination drawing nearer with every mile.
Quebec City is a very enchanting city where old-world charm, French culture, and modern Canadian life come together in a cobblestoned, castle-topped setting. As the capital of the province of Québec, it’s a cultural and historic treasure that feels like Europe.
Our accommodations were about a mile from old Quebec City in an apartment above Le 101 Restaurant de Quartiere, a family-owned French-inspired bistro.
This working-class neighborhood has been reborn as the creative heart of Québec City. After years of decline the neighborhood rebounded dramatically beginning in the 1990s with adaptive reuse of old buildings that added new energy to the streetscape. Saint-Roch is now a creative crossroads where design studios, digital firms, galleries, and cafés coexist in refurbished heritage buildings.
An eclectic mix of shops and local stores contribute to the creative energy of the area. While signs of hardship linger — an occasional person sleeping rough or struggling on the sidewalk — the neighborhood has come a long way in its revitalization. Today, it buzzes with a youthful vibe featuring appealing indie boutiques, microbreweries, and even a couple of Michelin-recognized restaurants.
We joined a walking tour that began at the edge of the Saint-Roch district, where it meets Old Québec’s Lower Town. Nearby is a striking bronze statue called La Vivrière. Poised atop a pedestal, the woman cradles an armful of fruits and vegetables. Our guide explained that her graceful yet steadfast posture symbolizes both strength and serenity — as if she’s a guardian of nourishment. Modeled after a ship’s figurehead, the sculpture also pays tribute to Québec’s deep maritime roots.
Beneath the statue, the ground is tiled with wavy, flowing lines, giving the illusion of water. A small stream of real water flows through this feature, turning the space into a symbolic riverbank. At one time, the St. Lawrence River reached this very spot before land reclamation expanded the shoreline outward.
The tour wandered through the city’s historic heart. Our guide led us through a charming square called Place-Royale.
She told us about an outdoor art installation called Cement Eclipses. It features 45 miniature cement sculptures of urbanites often perched on ledges, tucked into wall corners, or along façades. These tiny figures blend so seamlessly that they’re hard to spot. It makes you want to look more closely at their surroundings.
Hunting for the Cement Eclipse figures encourages a closer look at the forgotten corners and quiet details of Old Quebec’s historic buildings.
Our guide spent a bit of time telling us about La Fresque des Québécois, a stunning mural that stretches across the side of a three-story historic building. She pointed out its many intricate details — a vivid historical panorama capturing 400 years of Quebec City’s evolution, from its architecture and fortifications to scenes of daily life. It’s a captivating fusion of art, history, and illusion that draws you in the more closely you look.
We strolled into the Lower Town area which is also called Basse-Ville which has a more intimate, storybook charm. Nestled along the riverbank, it features narrow alleys, stone warehouses, cozy cafés, and vibrant boutiques.
Next stop is Upper Town also known as Haute Ville. The two neighborhoods are linked by steep staircases and winding streets — they are also connected by the charming funicular — a short glass cabin ride that offers great views as it glides up the cliffside
The most outstanding sight in upper town is Château Frontenac — a grand, castle-like hotel perched high above the St. Lawrence River. Opened in 1893, it’s the most photographed hotel in the world and a symbol of the city’s old-world charm.
The statue of Samuel de Champlain stands proudly at the top of the funicular, offering a grand and symbolic welcome to Québec’s historic Upper Town. As the founder of the city, his presence here feels both fitting and timeless.
Encircling it all is the Fortified Wall, the only remaining city wall north of Mexico. Built by the French and expanded by the British, it still wraps around Old Québec — a UNESCO World Heritage treasure that makes the city feel like a European time capsule.
Chateau FrontenacChamplain StatueCity Wall
Just behind Château Frontenac atop the funicular is a striking round structure known as the UNESCO Monument, located in Parc des Gouverneurs. It is a commemorative tribute to Old Québec being designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985.
After passing the Château and the grand monuments that mark the entrance to Upper Town, you’ll find yourself surrounded by a vibrant mix of shops, cafés, and restaurants — perfect for wandering, browsing, and tasting your way through the city.
Quebec City has been full of charm, history, and surprises — and we’re just getting started! Stay tuned for more cobblestone adventures and unforgettable sites.
Montreal is a vibrant, stylish, and culturally rich city — a bilingual blend of old-world charm and modern creativity. Located in the province of Quebec, it’s the second-largest city in Canada and the cultural heart of French-speaking Canada.
Montreal’s street art scene is one of the most vibrant and respected in the world — bold, expressive, and deeply tied to the city’s culture.
The statues below are, “The French Poodle and The English Pug”
On one corner stands a refined woman dressed in a Chanel-style suit, clutching a French poodle. With her nose pointed upward, she glances — perhaps disdainfully — toward the Bank of Montreal, a symbol of English-Canadian financial dominance .
Across the square on the opposite corner, a finely dressed Englishman holds a pug and directs a superior gaze at the Notre-Dame Basilica, representing the historical religious authority of French-Canadians.
The piece invites both locals and tourists to reflect — with humor — on Montreal’s bilingual, bicultural identity
The Bank of Montreal and the Notre-Dame Basilica.
Shopping in Old Montreal (Vieux-Montréal) is like stepping into a stylish European village — with cobblestone streets, stone buildings, and a curated mix of boutiques, art galleries, and souvenir shops tucked into 17th- and 18th-century architecture.
The streets of Old Montreal were hot and humming with life, pushing our limits as we wandered on, eager to soak it all in. We had hoped to catch the fireworks, but in the end, the heat got the best of us, and we retreated gratefully to our hotel refuge.
Before leaving town, we made a final stop at Mount Royal for a sweeping view of the city. In the background is Montreal’s Olympic Stadium which was built for the 1976 Summer Olympics. Though the skyline was softened by a haze of wildfire smoke, the vista still held its quiet charm.
While in Canada, it only makes sense to visit Ottawa — Canada’s capital and seat of its federal government. Ottawa is a city where stately government buildings meet vibrant neighborhoods, rich history, and natural beauty. Located in eastern Ontario on the banks of the Ottawa River, it sits right on the border with Quebec, blending English and French cultures. So off we went to explore Parliament Hill and the ByWard neighborhood.
Centre Block is the main building on Parliament Hill. It is home to the House of Commons and Senate chambers, with the iconic Peace Tower rising in the center. Even while under renovation, its dramatic silhouette defines Ottawa’s skyline and it is one of the most photographed buildings in Canada.
The Centennial Flame is located directly in front of the Centre Block. Its symbolic eternal flame is surrounded by bronze shields of the provinces and territories. It was first lit on January 1, 1967 to mark Canada’s 100th anniversary of Confederation.
After circling the historic buildings and taking in riverside views, we made our way down to the vibrant ByWard neighborhood.
The ByWard Market isn’t just a hotspot for food and shopping — it’s one of Ottawa’s oldest neighborhoods, and it owes its name to the city’s founding father, Lieutenant-Colonel John By who was tasked with canal construction and laying out a new town to support it. He carved the area into “wards.” The section around the public marketplace became known as the By Ward— named after him.
Nearly two centuries later, ByWard Market is still buzzing, with open-air stalls, cozy cafés, street performers, and history on every corner.
And now, it’s time to try a BeaverTail — the Canadian fried pastry, not the furry critter.
BeaverTails are hand-stretched dough that’s flattened into an oval or paddle shape, then deep-fried until crisp outside, fluffy inside. They were invented in 1978 in Ontario and became an Ottawa tradition by 1980. Traditionally finished with classic cinnamon sugar, they now come in dozens of creative variations from Nutella banana bliss to salty-sweet maple bacon mashups. There’s something to satifsy every sweet craving.
This BeaverTail is a strawberry cheesecake … it’s the best of both desserts: cheesecake meets carnival pastry, with strawberries, cream cheese, and a hint of crunch.
The other delicacy Ottawa is known for is shawarma. The city’s shawarma scene began booming in the late 1990s. Ottawa has become something of a shawarma hotspot in recent years, thanks to its vibrant and diverse Middle Eastern and Mediterranean communities. They have brought authentic spices, recipes and techniques
Ottawa boasts more shawarma and falafel spots than any other Canadian city, earning it the nickname “Shawarma Capital of the World” outside the Middle East .
Mr. Fez offers an array of handheld shawarma wraps, but it was the shawarma salad that caught my eye.
Before we high-tail it out of Ottawa and roll on to Montréal, here’s a look at the Queen Victoria Monument — a striking trio featuring the regal Queen atop, a proud lion symbolizing Canada, and a spirited young woman representing the growing nation.
Our accommodations were tucked away in a peaceful neighborhood in North York — close enough to downtown Toronto for easy access, yet far enough to enjoy some quiet and calm.
We took the subway into downtown and our first stop was the St. Lawrence Market. It is one of Toronto’s most beloved landmarks and a must-visit for food lovers, history buffs, and curious travelers alike.
St. Lawrence Market is known for its incredible selection of fresh food and specialty items. There are over 120 vendors selling meats, seafood, cheeses, produce, baked goods, spices, and international delicacies.
This is our cheese guy. He guided us through a delicious selection of specialty cheeses and artisanal sausages.
We were very tempted by classic baked goods made with old-world techniques. Buttery croissants, pain au chocolat, and fruit Danishes from several French and Italian-style bakeries.
Butter tarts are one of Canada’s most iconic — and beloved — desserts. Rich, gooey, and sweet, they hold a nostalgic place in many Canadian hearts (and kitchens). A butter tart is a small pastry with a flaky crust and a rich, sweet filling made primarily of butter, brown sugar, eggs and maple syrup. Baked until it’s golden and slightly carmelized, it’s often gooey in the center with a lightly crisped top.
Peameal bacon sandwiches are a classic Toronto specialty and a must-try for food lovers visiting the city. Peameal bacon is a uniquely Canadian cured meat. It’s made from pork loin — the same lean cut used for pork chops—and is known for its tender texture, mild flavor, and signature yellow cornmeal crust.
The name comes from the late 1800s when Toronto pork processors began rolling cured pork loin in ground yellow peas to help preserve it. Cornmeal eventually replaced peas but the name “peameal bacon” stuck.
One last treat I couldn’t resist: a rhubarb galette — rustic and golden, with tart-sweet rhubarb nestled in a flaky, buttery pastry and finished with a hint of sugar. It was simple, seasonal, and utterly satisfying.
After confirming we’d consumed enough calories to fuel a proper day of sightseeing, we left the market and set off to explore the city.
We only had a day to explore Toronto, so we barely scratched the surface of downtown. Our wandering took us through the sleek canyons of the Financial District and down toward the lakefront. Someone suggested we take in the view from the CN Tower — the city’s tallest landmark — but with observation deck tickets priced at $57, the view from below had to suffice.
“Jack’s Got Your Back. Stronger Together: The Layton Memorial” This is a warm and interactive tribute to Jack Layton, former Toronto city councillor and leader of the federal NDP (New Democratic Party).
The sounds of the city’s, its hustle bustle and the heat were tiring so we made our escape to the ferry terminal and set off for Centre Island.
We traded the city’s buzz for lake breezes, green space, and a touch of summer nostalgia. It’s a short 10-15 minute ride to Center Island which is part of the Toronto Islands, a chain of small, car-free islands just offshore from downtown Toronto in Lake Ontario.
Centre Island offers a nice blend of peaceful nature, sandy beaches, a nostalgic amusement park, a charming petting farm, and miles of scenic walking and biking trails.
After a few hours of calm on Centre Island, we were ready to head back to the city. The ferry boat offers a spectacular view of the Toronto skyline.
Our evening plans included moonlight kayaking on Lake Ontario beneath a glowing full moon. But just as we were preparing to launch, a sudden squall swept in off the lake, bringing a torrential downpour. So much for paddling — we called an Uber and made our soggy retreat to our North York hideaway.
One thing that stood out during our day in Toronto was the number of men wearing turbans. Most are Sikh — followers of a faith that originated in Punjab, India. Toronto is one of the most diverse cities in the world, and its vibrant South Asian community, particularly Sikhs, forms a significant part of the city’s cultural fabric.
Our Uber driver was a warm and friendly young man who told us he was a Sikh from Punjab. Though he wasn’t wearing a turban himself, he welcomed our curiosity and shared that the turban is a powerful symbol of faith, equality, courage, and respect — reflecting a deep commitment to Sikh teachings and traditions. He explained that wearing a turban is a personal choice, and many Sikh men choose not to cut their hair as part of their religious practice. The turban, he said, helps them cover and care for their unshorn hair with dignity.
I inquired about a sketch book that he had tucked into a seat pocket thinking he might be an artist. He invited us to write something — poetry, reflections, or whatever inspired us. I couldn’t resist an opportunity to write a little travel wisdom on its pages. Our Uber ride turned into a very memorable exchange and a great way to end our day of discovery in Toronto.
I’ve never knitted a thing in my life. But I’ve seen Megan’s posts about how relaxing it can be, and I’ve always been a little curious. What better opportunity to learn than on this road trip? With plenty of time, long stretches of open road, and good company, it felt like the perfect moment.
Our first stop? Hank — Megan’s favorite yarn boutique. She lit up as soon as we walked through the door. I, on the other hand, stood wide-eyed at the walls of colorful skeins, wondering how on earth I was going to turn any of it into something useful. But with Megan as my teacher, I was in good hands.
A ‘hank’ of yarn and wooden needles.The ‘swift’ winds the Hank into a ball. Ready, set, go!
With my new knitting gear in hand and a spark of beginner’s optimism, we jumped in the car and headed north. This trip is all about serendipity, so naturally, our first detour happened before we even left the state.
Megan has always wanted to tour the house from A Christmas Story —you know, the one with the leg lamp in the window and the Red Ryder BB gun drama. While the movie claims to be set in Hammond, Indiana, the real house is actually in Cleveland. So off we went, chasing nostalgia and roadside curiosities.
Only three scenes from the movie were actually shot in the Cleveland house. The rest were filmed on a soundstage in Toronto — but that didn’t stop Megan from grinning like a kid on Christmas morning.
We posed with the infamous leg lamp (yes, it’s still in the window), peeked into the kitchen where the turkey met its untimely end, and climbed the stairs to see where Ralphie plotted his BB gun dreams. A little kitschy? Sure. But totally worth the stop. After all, what’s a road trip without a few unexpected turns and a touch of movie magic?
Megan stole the show with her re-enactment of Randy’s famous scene under the sink. Clearly, she missed her true calling in improv comedy.
Next up: Niagara Falls. We made a quick stop on the Canadian side for a look at the roaring water — still impressive, even in a hurry. Snapped a few photos, took a spin through the duty-free store and just like that, we were back on the road headed for Toronto.
We arrived at our destination around 11:00 pm. Long day, good talk, tired now.
Heading north for a Canadian adventure! I flew into Cincinnati, am now road-tripping through Toronto, Ottawa, Montreal, and Quebec City — with a little NYC detour on the way back to Ohio.
My partner-in-crime is my niece Megan, an English teacher from Cincinnati who’s determined to unleash her French language skills on our Canadian neighbors. Along the way, she’s teaching me to knit — so expect tangled yarns in more ways than one (and yes, that’s a literal-and-figurative yarn pun).
We make a great adventure team. A few years back, we were hiking in Kentucky when — believe it or not — we stumbled upon a camel. Naturally, we had to get a photo. This was before front-facing cameras were a thing, but Megan expertly flipped her phone around and somehow managed to snap a perfectly centered shot — camel included, smiling and all.
Join us as we explore Canada — savoring its cuisine, discovering its culture, and knitting a few memories along the way.
After such a full and exhilarating week, we were all ready to head home.
Theresa and I — who began our journey in Lisbon, made our way to Santiago, and then continued on to the Canary Islands — had been traveling for a month. Kyle joined us just before Santiago, while Quinn and Emily chose to spend a week with us in the Canaries.
We all flew home in different directions. Kyle, Theresa, and I departed from Tenerife North Airport, which connects primarily to European cities. Our first stop was Lisbon — then Kyle continued home via Canada, while Theresa and I traveled through Amsterdam. Quinn gave us a ride to the airport and saw us off.
Quinn and Emily had one more night in Tenerife before flying home via New York City. Their departure was from Tenerife South Airport, which handles most international flights. After Quinn returned they packed up and made their way to the southern part of the island.
Excited to see the ocean, they were frolicking in the water and a wave made off with their sunglasses.
For their final night, they stayed in a yurt nestled in a garden beneath an avocado tree. The quirky setup included an outdoor sink, a rustic shower and the unexpected company of half a dozen cats.
“Epic” was the word Quinn used to sum up our week in the Canary Islands — and it truly was. The entire journey was unforgettable for all of us, made even more special by the week Theresa’s daughter Helen spent with us on the Camino. We shared countless adventures, each one adding to a tapestry of memories we’ll carry with us.
Our timing couldn’t have been better — we missed a major power outage that swept across the Iberian Peninsula by just an hour. It was a journey for the books, with the wind at our backs every step of the way.
Today’s adventure led us to a hidden gem: a French restaurant tucked away in the breathtaking Anaga mountain range. We had originally planned to spend the afternoon at Mount Teide, but the scenic drive to the tiny hamlet of Taborno changed everything. The journey itself was so stunning — and the village so peaceful and inviting — that we knew it deserved our full attention. We didn’t want to dash off to Mount Teide only to rush through it. So we embraced the slower pace and let the day unfold at its own rhythm.
Watching the navigation system trace our winding route was nearly as captivating as the journey itself.
Historias Para No Dormir is a charming French restaurant nestled in the hamlet of Taborno. This remote village is part of the Anaga Rural Park, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve celebrated for its ancient laurel forests, dramatic cliffs, and panoramic ocean views … tranquil and bursting with natural beauty.
The area was blooming with unfamiliar yet stunning plant life — and we even spotted a few lizards basking in the sun.
Hjknjk;
Before lunch, we wandered a little farther up the road and discovered the Church of Saint Joseph — a humble yet historically rich chapel nestled in the heart of this secluded village. Its architecture reflects the island’s rural traditions, with a simple rectangular design and a roof of weathered Arabic tiles. More than a place of worship, the church remains a cornerstone of community life.
Just beyond the church, we came upon some cave dwellings with weathered entrances tucked into the hillside. It’s unclear whether it’s still inhabited, though in some parts of the Anaga Mountains, these traditional cave homes are still lived in today.
Roque de Taborno is a striking geological formation that was formed through volcanic activity and subsequent erosion over millions of years.The name Historias Para No Dormir translates from Spanish as “Stories to Stay Awake.” Perhaps the restaurant is suggesting that a meal here is more than just dining; it’s an experience woven with unforgettable stories that linger long after the last bite.
And it was a very memorable meal with stories that will linger …
The meal exceeded all expectations. Each of us began with a beautifully composed, distinctive salad before moving on to the main event: hearty wild boar stew, succulent kangaroo sirloin draped in the chef’s signature sauce, velvety venison sirloin bathed in a wine and mushroom reduction, and a showstopping triple pork T-bone —generously stuffed with garlic and mushrooms, then crowned with a decadent Camembert sauce. Perhaps that was the story meant to linger.
And of course, we didn’t pass up dessert — it was included, after all. We indulged in a tempting array: pie, tiramisu, chocolate cheese cake and a decadent double chocolate cake.
While dinner settled, we took one last short walk to soak in the breathtaking views that surrounded us.
As we arrived back at the apartment, a show was just beginning in the plaza below.
From our balcony, we had a perfect view as a vibrant cultural performance unfolded in Plaza España — women in traditional Canarian dress, music, dancing and bursts of fireworks.
Then, our own little show unfolded right here on the balcony — Quinn and his Mountain Dew Snuggli stealing the spotlight.
Today was our day to explore the island of Gran Canaria. The ferry port was just a stone’s throw from where we were staying — in fact, we had been watching the ferries coming and going from our balcony throughout the week. Despite its proximity, reaching the terminal by car proved surprisingly tricky.
The view from the ferry was striking—a dense wall of condos and high-rise buildings stretched along the waterfront, with rugged mountains rising behind them. From the harbor, we had a sweeping panoramic view of the city, framed by sea and sky.
The Armas ferry was comfortable, and I especially enjoyed sitting at the front, where there was an excellent view of the sea and the approaching coastline.
One of the reasons we chose to visit Gran Canaria was the World Rally Championship, which was being held on the island for the first time. As the premier international competition in rally racing, the WRC showcases high-performance, modified production cars racing across challenging routes on a variety of surfaces — including gravel, asphalt, snow, and ice.
The rally cars are heavily modified versions of street-legal models — like the Toyota GR Yaris, Hyundai i20 N, and Ford Puma — engineered for speed, agility, and durability. Kyle was especially interested, since he drives a Subaru WRX, (World Rally eXperimental) a car with its own rally heritage.
The WRX is one of the sport’s most iconic cars, especially during the 1990s and early 2000s. And while I may drive an aging Toyota Sienna minivan, I still found the world of rally racing surprisingly compelling.
We had hoped to catch part of the rally itself, but in terms of ferry schedules, it worked out better for us to be there on the pre-event day—known as “recce and shakedown day.” It turned out to be an interesting part of the World Rally Championship experience.
Far from a day of downtime, it’s packed with final preparations, technical inspections, and strategic planning. It’s also when fans can get up close to the cars in the service park, where each team sets up its base and fine-tunes their vehicles for the stages ahead.
After soaking in all the pre-race excitement, it was time for us to hit the road ourselves. And naturally, Kyle was eager to take the wheel. We headed out to the Caves of Valeron.
The drive from Las Palmas de Gran Canaria to the Caves of Valerón is a scenic journey that offers a glimpse into the island’s diverse landscapes.
The Caves are a remarkable testament to the island’s pre-Hispanic heritage. Located near the town of Santa María de Guía in the northern part of the island, this archaeological site features over 350 man-made cavities carved into the volcanic rock of a steep cliff face.
These interconnected caves are believed to have served as a communal granary for the indigenous Canarian people, known as the Guanches, dating back approximately 800 years.
The caves are accessible via a staircase that offers panoramic views of the surrounding valley.
The site includes a small reconstructed aboriginal house, providing insight into the living conditions of the Guanches. Interpretive panels along the path offer historical context.
The strategic placement of the caves—high on a cliff and hidden from the sea—provided protection against potential invaders and the elements. Each chamber was likely sealed with wooden or stone doors to safeguard stored goods such as grains and other food.
With the clock ticking and the ferry schedule looming, we had to wrap up our day a bit earlier than planned. We made our way back to Las Palmas for a late lunch before heading to the port to catch our ferry.
Walking through the streets of Las Palmas, we had to chuckle when we spotted a poster promoting “Gus” Jackson — most likely a local Michael Jackson impersonator.
We ended our visit to Gran Canaria with a serene sunset ferry ride, the golden light casting a warm glow over the water as we sailed back to Tenerife.
This morning, we all lounged around a little longer than usual, awakening to clear blue skies and warm sunlight streaming through the windows. Quinn and Emily made a delightful breakfast of ensalada de fritos con queso fresco — layers of creamy cheese drizzled with honey and topped with fresh, seasonal fruit — accompanied by flaky croissants from a nearby bakery.
Today was open with nothing on the agenda. Theresa and I hopped aboard the tram, winding our way up to San Cristóbal de La Laguna for a leisurely day of sightseeing, sunshine and shopping.
Kyle went wandering. Theresa and I crossed paths with him later in the afternoon at a grocery store. He was shopping for dinner ingredients.
The energetic Quinn and Emily rented bicycles and set their sights on conquering the nearby hills.
Barely larger than a phone booth, our building’s elevator made squeezing in two people and two bikes quite the feat.
The hills surrounding San Cristóbal de La Laguna form the lower slopes of Tenerife’s rugged Anaga highlands. Rising from the city’s roughly 500m elevation up to peaks of 800–1,000m these roads thread through deep ravines, laurel forests and dramatic volcanic outcrops.
Quinn and Emily did a challenging route up in the San Cristobal area.
All told, the San Cristóbal hills make for a rewarding ride — beautiful scenery, historical towns, and enough challenge to satisfy seasoned cyclists.
The Mighty Quinn attacked those hills with such ferocity that he actually snapped something on his rental bike. The ascent tested every ounce of his strength — and the descent was no easier on his battered bike frame.
A seasoned rider, Quinn has completed countless century rides (100 miles), conquered the DAMn (Day Across Minnesota) 240-mile challenge, and pedaled the Minneapolis–Duluth route (170 miles) on more than one occasion.
If you’re a fellow cycling enthusiast looking for your next big test … or you just enjoy biking, Quinn welcomes you to join him on the “Bike to Duluth” ride on June 28th — a free event. This grass-roots self supported bike ride covers about 170 miles from Minneapolis proper to the lift-bridge in Duluth. For more information, to register or donate door prizes or items for swag bags, contact Quinn at biketoduluth.com
You don’t have to go to Tenerife for an exciting bike ride, join Quinn for a spin through Minnesota on June 28.
As dusk settled, Kyle whipped up a hearty home-cooked feast: tender Spanish pork chops bathed in a traditional sauce, smoky Padrón peppers, crisp-edged croquetas, and a vibrant ensalada mixta. It was the perfect way to close out the day.
Stay tuned — next, we’re off to the island of Gran Canaria, which will be hosting the 2025 FIA World Rally Championship!
La Gomera is one of the smaller islands in the Canaries. It has rugged volcanic mountains, lush greenery, and deep ravines. The island has a mystical feel — it’s much quieter and less touristy than Tenerife or Gran Canaria. It is also where Christopher Columbus stopped in 1492 to stock up before sailing to America.
The day started with an hour long drive to the southern Tenerife port of Los Cristianos. From there, we took the Armas ferry to San Sebastián, the capital of La Gomera. We needed transportation on La Gomera so we ferried the car too.
The crossing was a bit choppy, with the passenger cabin rocking and rolling.From the back of the boat, the views were beautiful — the harbor nestled against the village of San Sebastián, and far off, Mount Teide on Tenerife peeked out from the clouds.
As you step off the ferry, your eyes are immediately drawn to the dramatic hillside, where the buildings of San Sebastián cling to the steep slopes, stacked one above the other in a cascade of color.
Torre del Conde is a medieval stone tower located in the middle of a quiet park in San Sebastián, surrounded by palm trees. It was built around 1450 by one of the Spanish conquerors who took control of the Canary Islands.
The tower was originally built for defense, but it also symbolized Spanish authority over the local indigenous Guanche people during the early colonization. It’s not huge — around 50 feet high — but it’s very solid, with thick whitewashed stone walls and a simple, almost fortress-like design.
Torre del Conde is a tangible piece of the island’s dramatic history.
The Monument to the Sacred Heart of Jesus, also known as the Cristo de San Sebastián stands prominently on a hillside offering a commanding view over the town and its harbor.
Quinn, Emily, and Kyle took a more adventurous route today, tackling steep trails and exploring rugged terrain that ranged from moss-draped forests to dry, arid stretches.
Quinn, Emily, and Kyle made a stop at the Jesus statue, where the wind whipped fiercely around them.Theresa and I took it easy today, spending our time touring the streets and browsing the shops of San Sebastián.
Savoring a cold beer, we soaked in the more tranquil side of LaGomera, surrounded by the island’s rugged coastline, with its black-sand beaches, towering cliffs, and stunning views of the Atlantic. After more than three weeks on the move, a quiet afternoon at the beach was the perfect reset.
The ferry schedule cut our day a bit shorter than we would have liked, with boarding starting around 4:30.
We caught the Fred Olsen ferry back to Tenerife — a gentler ride than this morning’s, with the Atlantic offering a calm, mesmerizing view.
A funny thing happened on our way back to Santa Cruz. We had planned to stop for dinner in the seaside village of Candelaria, but while driving on the freeway, we spotted a large fire just off the road. Thick black smoke billowed into the sky, and Quinn guessed they might be burning wooden pallets. Strangely, there didn’t seem to be anyone near the flames. As the scene faded in our rearview mirror, it was hard to make sense of what we’d just witnessed.
We kept going, and after exiting, we got a bit turned around and accidentally drove the wrong way down a one-way street. Strangely enough, that wrong turn led us straight to the seafood market we’d been trying to find.
As it turned out, we landed at a seaside treasure — an unforgettable seafood restaurant with sweeping views of the Atlantic.
The restaurant also functions as a seafood market, offering locally sourced catches prepared with authentic Canarian flair — standout dishes include grilled cuttlefish, Galician-style octopus, and crispy fried moray eel.
Our waiter assisted Quinn in selecting a live fish for our family-style dinner which was cleaned and prepared by a chef. The Cofradía Salad was a surprisingly delicious mix of crisp lettuce, ripe tomatoes, savory seasonings topped with tender garlic shrimp and warm shredded fish that tasted similar to pasta. The chosen fish was grilled and served up on a platter garnished with lemon.
There were also a few tasty side dishes and warm, crusty bread. Before long, everyone was happily full on all the deliciousness. Our dining experience was enhanced by the restaurant’s informal setting — plastic chairs and simple tables — which contributed to its charm. It was a relaxed, no-frills atmosphere with stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean.
After dinner, we strolled along the Atlantic … Kyle had dropped us at the door but had to park several blocks away. The stroll afterward was every bit as satisfying as dinner.
Now about that little pallet fire … as we were leaving Candeleria, we noticed it was odd that southbound traffic was stopped and backed-up as far as we could see and there was no traffic going north which is where we were headed.
Apparently, the fire was quite serious, breaking out at a pallet warehouse and quickly escalating. The blaze was intense enough to shut down the freeway in both directions, and firefighters battled the flames throughout the night. We were incredibly lucky to have passed by just as the fire was beginning — before any emergency crews had arrived. Timing was everything; had we left the port just 20 or 30 minutes later, we could have been stuck in a massive traffic jam for hours.
We made it back to our apartment around 10:00 pm, ready to unwind and looking forward to an open, unplanned day tomorrow. There was so much from the day to absorb and reflect on.
So what does an “unplanned” day look like for this group? Stay tuned.
Our first stop was the Mercado de Nuestra Señora de África which offers a rich and authentic glimpse into the heart of Tenerife which is affectionately known as La Recova.
La Recova comes from the old Spanish word “recova,” which originally referred to a marketplace where poultry and farm products were sold.
When the market was officially opened in 1944, it was dedicated to Our Lady of Africa (Nuestra Señora de África), who is the patroness of Ceuta, a Spanish enclave on the African continent. Naming it after her symbolized a cultural and spiritual connection between the Canary Islands and Africa.
So, the “African Market” name is partly religious, partly geographic and very much tied to Santa Cruz’s history as a crossroads of cultures.
The boat sculpture in front of La Recova is a striking bronze artwork titled Tribute to the Chicharrero. This life-sized piece depicts two fishermen dragging a traditional fishing boat, symbolizing the hard work and resilience of the local people, affectionately known as chicharreros .
The sculpture serves as a powerful reminder of Santa Cruz’s maritime heritage and the vital role of fishing in the city’s history.
The market offers a colorful variety of seasonal fruits and vegetables from local farms, along with an abundant selection of fresh fish, seafood, and meats. You’ll also find artisanal cheeses, freshly baked breads and pastries, and traditional Canarian specialties, including mojo sauces, local wines and spices.
Small bars and eateries offering local dishes like papas arrugadas and fresh seafood preparations.
The tile portraits are a beautiful tribute to Spain’s rich regional diversity. Each ceramic panel portrays couples dressed in traditional costumes from different parts of the country, celebrating the vibrant traditions, customs and cultural heritage that define Spain’s national identity.
The Aguadora de Santa Cruz bronze sculpture (below left) portrays a barefoot woman carrying a water jug on her head, honoring the women who once transported water from wells to homes before the advent of modern plumbing.
The Street Sculpture Trail is an open-air exhibition that showcases various public artworks throughout the city.
Next stop is the historic town of San Cristóbal de La Laguna. There is a modern and efficient light rail system that connects Santa Cruz with San Cristóbal de La Laguna. This tram service offers a convenient and scenic way to travel between these two historic cities. It’s about a 40 minute ride and costs less than two dollars.
We all hopped onto the tram and savored the scenic ride, passing through charming small communities along the way.
La Laguna has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999 and it stands as the only city in the Canary Islands to hold this distinction. Founded in the late 15th century, La Laguna was the first city established in the archipelago and served as the capital of Tenerife until 1723. Its well-preserved colonial architecture and unique urban layout offer a glimpse into the past and make it a must-visit destination.
The Cathedral of San Cristóbal de La Laguna is a significant religious and architectural landmark located in the heart of La Laguna. We opted for the audio tour and found it to be both informative and engaging.
The tour provided a comprehensive understanding of the cathedral’s artistic and spiritual significance.
The cathedral features several alcoves, each housing grand, intricately designed altars dedicated to various patron saints. These altars are adorned with detailed sculptures and paintings, each telling the unique stories and significance of the saints they honor.
The cathedral dedicated a special space to honor the late Pope Francis. Visitors were invited to share their reflections, tributes, and messages in a book provided at a designated table, allowing them to pay their respects and commemorate his legacy.The dragon trees in front of the Cathedral are a captivating sight. These iconic trees, native to the Canary Islands, are renowned for their distinctive appearance and historical significance.
La Laguna offers a great shopping experience, with a diverse selection of scarves, purses, shoes and local crafts that Theresa and I found to be especially captivating.
Our waiter, Federico from Uruguay, seemed a bit confused when we asked for a gin & tonic. After a moment, he smiled and said, “Ah, you mean ‘shin & tónica’!
The final adventure of the day was chasing the sunset, which meant heading to the island’s west side, winding through steep peaks and valleys. The drive was nerve-wracking — narrow roads, sheer cliffs and endless twists and turns.
We were thrilled to spot a black goat grazing in a field — until we visited a tiny, hole-in-the-wall restaurant and ordered goat. Though it was incredibly tender and delicious, it left us feeling a bit guilty.
At the Paca House, we savored a variety of local specialties and beloved dishes. Everyone left completely satisfied.
As for the sunset… we settled at a beach in Parque Rural de Anaga. The clouds and wind weren’t on our side. We did catch a glimpse of it, though. The drive back in the dark felt less daunting since we couldn’t see the steep cliffs we’d been navigating.
It was a day packed with successful sightseeing. Tomorrow, we’re catching the ferry to the island of La Gomera.
Just off the coast of Africa but proudly Spanish, the Canary Islands are seven slices of sunshine, volcanoes, and beachy bliss — all with their own personality. Technically, the Canary Islands belong to Spain but they are closer to Morocco. Also, the name Canary actually comes from the Latin, meaning “Islands of the Dogs” not birds.
Kyle, Theresa, and I set off from Santiago, our early morning flight lifting off through the rain … not quite on schedule but close enough. The journey was smooth and uneventful. We landed at Tenerife South Airport, ready for a new adventure. Picking up our rental car was easy, and I was pleasantly surprised by how well-maintained and modern the roads were. It was about a 40-minute drive to Santa Cruz, and it took a little time to adjust to the local streets and traffic signs.
A bit of finagling later, we found our rhythm. Thankfully, our apartment came with a garage parking space — a real blessing. After a bit of a scavenger hunt to track down all the necessary keys, doors, elevators, and garage openers, we finally settled in. All was good.
Our accommodations far exceeded our expectations. The wrap-around balcony offered jaw-dropping views of the mountains, the ocean and the busy harbor. The apartment itself was beautiful — spacious, modern, and even better than we had imagined.
We didn’t have much time to soak in our new surroundings — Quinn and Emily’s flight had just arrived, and we were soon back on the road, heading to the airport to pick them up.
It was a tight fit with the luggage but we made it work.
Needless to say, everyone was pretty wiped out from a long day of travel. On the way back from the airport, we made a quick stop at a mercado, and Kyle whipped up an amazing meal while we all settled in and relaxed, soaking up the comfort of our apartment. Despite our exhaustion, the excitement of being there made it hard to finally call it a night.
In Spain, Easter is celebrated in a more relaxed and low-key way. The focus is on family gatherings, attending church services, and enjoying the outdoors. The atmosphere is festive yet peaceful, with many people heading to the beach or exploring the countryside. Similarly, our day was quiet and leisurely as we spent time walking around and getting to know Santa Cruz.
We were excited to have Quinn and Emily with us, easing into the pace as they adapted to the European time zone.
We strolled past the harbor and along the shoreline, where cruise ships were docked and ferry boats came and went. Santa Cruz is full of interesting public art.
I was intrigued by the El Muro sculpture — mostly because I had absolutely no idea what I was looking at. Apparently, the sculptor, Juan Bordes, is famous for his expressive depictions of the human form. It’s supposed to evoke a sense of balance and physical tension. Personally, I’m still not entirely sure what was going on, but hey — it looked impressive.
Charcos de Valleseco is a newly developed coastal area designed to provide residents and visitors with a modern seaside experience. The project transformed a previously underutilized stretch of coastline into a recreational space featuring natural-style pools, floating platforms, sunbathing areas, and accessible facilities.
This swimming beach has no sand, which was a bit of a disappointment for me, but it’s an interesting concept — more like a concrete shoreline.
This is a city where nature and urban life bloom side by side. From lush botanical gardens to vibrant public parks, the city showcases a rich tapestry of flowers that reflect its subtropical climate and cultural heritage.
It was a quiet Easter, yet very pleasant. We had a wonderful dinner at a nearby restaurant and enjoyed a leisurely walk back to our apartment, soaking in the calm evening.
The ending point of our Camino Portugués is the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, Spain. This magnificent cathedral is the traditional final destination for all routes of the Camino de Santiago, as it is believed to be the burial site of Saint James the Greater, one of Jesus’s apostles.
Santiago is a beautiful, historic city full of charming narrow streets, excellent Galician food and other pilgrims celebrating the end of their journey.
Our Camino journey may end here in Santiago, but the memories will stay with us forever. We’re lingering on a few more days to experience the beauty and tradition of Holy Week, with its unforgettable Spanish processions.
Holy Week in Spain is one of the country’s most storied and visually striking religious-cultural traditions.
The posed photo in front of the Cathedral of Santiago is one of the joyful highlights of the Camino’s grand finale — a moment of celebration, reflection, and shared accomplishment.
First, we’re celebrating at one of our favorite Santiago spots—Bar Latita. The tapas here are irresistible, and the atmosphere is just right for toasting the end of our journey.
Next, we make our way to the Cathedral—joining the quiet line into the crypt to see the resting place of St. James, then climbing the stairs behind the altar to pay our respects to San Tiago (St. James) himself.
Since the processions don’t begin until evening, we have the afternoon free to wander around Santiago. Theresa and I have visited several times before, so we each have our own favorite spots to return to. There’s a chance of rain, though—and if it comes, the procession may be canceled.
As night falls, you’ll often hear guitar music and heartfelt singing echoing off the stone walls of the plaza. It’s the Argentine troubadours, beloved, informal musicians performing around the grand square in front of the Cathedral. These musicians are typically traveling performers from Argentina (and occasionally other Latin American countries), often pilgrims themselves, who bring a unique spirit to the Camino’s endpoint.
Many of these musicians walk the Camino themselves and perform as a way to connect, reflect, and give back. Their presence is a reminder that the Camino is as much about community and shared experience as it is about the path itself.
It’s the perfect soundtrack for a Santiago evening—nostalgic, soulful, and filled with the spirit of the journey
It had been a long day, with rain coming and going. Theresa and Helen had already returned to the hotel, while Kyle and I lingered near the Cathedral, listening to the troubadours as we slowly made our way back. We assumed the procession had been canceled due to the weather— but then, to our surprise, we caught a glimpse of one of the floats emerging through the misty evening.
We hurried up the steps to the Cathedral as the procession approached the great doors. In a moment of quiet drama, everything seemed to pause. Then, slowly, the massive door creaked open, and the procession entered. We stood in awe, moved by the solemnity and the haunting beauty of the scene.
The conical hoods and robes you see are called capirotes (pointed hoods) and are worn by Nazarenos (penitents) as a sign of humble anonymity and spiritual “lifting” toward heaven. Though they resemble KKK garb at first glance, they have an entirely different origin and meaning: their attire is about centuries-old acts of penance and faith — nothing to do with the Klan.
The entire procession enters the Cathedral, the penitents skillfully guiding the heavy float through tight corners with remarkable precision. Once inside, they form solemn lines, joined by observers and the faithful who quietly follow behind. A ritual of prayer begins, punctuated by moments of profound silence. It’s now close to midnight, and we’ve reunited with Theresa and Helen, who came after hearing the commotion outside.
Just as dramatically as it had arrived, the procession made its way out of the Cathedral, continuing on to its next destination. The experience was powerful — and for first time viewers, almost overwhelming in its intensity. We followed for a while, caught up in the moment. A long day was gently unfolding into a long, unforgettable night.
The End of the World— Finnistere
Many pilgrims stay a few extra days to rest, reflect, or explore nearby areas like Finisterre or Muxía — places traditionally considered “the end of the world.”
It rained most of the next day. We took a two-hour bus ride to Finisterre (or Fisterra in Galician) which is often called “the end of the world” because in ancient times, it was thought to be the westernmost point of Europe — the farthest reach of the known world before the discovery of the Americas.
The dramatic cliffs, roaring ocean, and open horizon offer a powerful space for closure, solitude, and the sense of a journey fully completed.
After the long bus ride, we needed a strong coffee and a dry spot to escape the rain. Although the official Camino ends in Santiago de Compostela, reaching the Km 0 marker at Finisterre feels like the ultimate finish line — the place where land ends and the ocean begins. It’s a spot for closure, gratitude, and sometimes transformation.
While Helen and Kyle set off on a long hike, Theresa and I chose a more relaxed route — returning to the lighthouse hotel for a drink, a ritual of ours. On many of our past Caminos, we’ve watched the sun set over the sea from this very spot. But this time, the rain had its own agenda, and we were beginning to feel its weight.
Before boarding the bus back to Santiago, we had one last ritual to honor — a seafood feast at one of our favorite Finisterre restaurants, a celebration of the sea and the journey behind us.
Among the dishes we shared were a rich seafood casserole, my beloved Padrón peppers, and monkfish — Kyle’s pick, since he noted how rare it is to find on menus back in the US.
After a long, rainy day and several hours on the bus, we returned to Santiago — where the rain was still falling. We assumed the 11:00 pm procession would be called off. Theresa and Helen turned in for the night, but Kyle and I decided to venture out and see a bit of Santiago’s late-night scene.
We ended up at a nearby pub called O’Flanagan’s — too tempting to pass up. Over drinks, we chatted and unwound, and by midnight we were ready to call it a night. But just as we were about to leave, the pounding of drums echoed through the street — the procession was passing right outside. We quickly paid the bill and rushed outside.
Once again, it was a haunting, midnight scene, the figures moving solemnly through darkness and light rain. We watched in silence as the procession passed, then, unable to resist, hurried ahead to catch a second glimpse as it made its way through the city.
A crowd of followers, umbrellas in hand — ours included — trailed behind the procession as it wound its way through narrow streets, between ancient stone buildings and around shadowy corners.
Everything came to a halt in front of an eerie old church, its facade draped in moss and speckled with barnacle-like flaws. Even the birds circling overhead added to the uncanny atmosphere. The drama was thick in the air, and we waited, intrigued, to see what would unfold next.
There were ritual gestures, murmured prayers, and then the floats and penitents slowly moved into the shadowy old church. We followed along with the rest of the crowd, but just as the last of the procession disappeared inside and we reached the doorway, a solemn group of four penitents stepped forward and blocked the entrance. That seemed to be our cue — it was time to head back through the quiet streets and make our way to the hotel.
Good Friday: Our Last Day in Santiago
Once again, we woke to the sound of rain. We allowed ourselves a slow start, sleeping in a bit and easing into the day. It was Good Friday, and the streets were noticeably more crowded than usual. We had to wait a while for our first cup of café Americano and a bite to eat.
After regrouping, Kyle and Helen set off on one of their fast-paced explorations, while Theresa and I opted for a more relaxed wander.
On Good Friday, the line to enter the Cathedral seemed unending, winding through the square from morning until night. We regrouped and set off once again, happily exploring the city at our own pace.
The day slipped by quickly, and we hoped to close out our time in Santiago with a dinner at a pulpería and, if the weather allowed, one last procession.
At Pulpería Piorno, we settled in for a leisurely and delicious octopus dinner, sharing stories and reflections on the day’s adventures as we savored each bite.
Theresa couldn’t keep her eyes open and called it a night. Helen, Kyle, and I headed back to our favorite Irish pub, where we were treated to some lively traditional music. Galicia, with its Celtic roots, has a natural affinity for all things Irish.
We weren’t sure if tonight’s procession would happen, given the weather, but we were thoroughly enjoying ourselves listening to the Irish music at O’Flanagan’s.
We ordered cervezas, and as if by magic, a plate of tapas appeared alongside — charming little snacks that looked like miniature hot dogs.
Then, like a bolt of lightning out of the blue, the sound of drums cracked through the night. We sprang into action and rushed into the streets — where we were met by a powerful wave of sound. A thunderous group of drummers was marching past, pounding their rhythms with fierce intensity. We watched in awe.
The thunder of the drums was so intense it could’ve woken the dead — and it did. Even Theresa, fast asleep on the third floor with earplugs in, was roused by the pounding rhythms. Like a scene from the resurrection, she emerged and made her way down to street level (in her PJs) to witness the procession which was inches away from her.
Once again, we found ourselves following the procession through the winding streets and toward another church. The experience was deeply moving — powerful, atmospheric, and unforgettable.
After soaking in the procession, we drifted to a nearby bar for a nightcap and to bid Helen farewell. Her train to Madrid was departing in the early hours, and by Sunday, she would be heading back to the United States. Meanwhile, Kyle, Theresa, and I were preparing for our next adventure — boarding a flight to Tenerife.
This ends our three-week Camino adventure but stay tuned … we’re heading to the Canary Islands where we will be joined by two more visitors.
Padrón peppers (pementos de Padrón) are a beloved Galician tapa with a fun twist—most are mild, but now and then, you’ll get one with a surprise kick of heat. They were brought to Galicia from the Americas by Franciscan monks in the 16th century. Today, they’re grown locally and hold Protected Designation of Origin status.
In the heart of Padrón stands the Monumento á Pementeira—a bronze sculpture honoring the local women who have cultivated and sold the region’s famed peppers for generations.
It serves as a focal point during the annual Festa do Pemento de Herbón. During this festival, a procession of decorated tractors travels from Herbón to Padrón, culminating in a floral offering at the statue.
This event celebrates the pepper’s heritage and the local women who recognized the potential of this crop, leading to the establishment of a thriving pepper industry that continues to this day.
I was so excited to be in Padrón and finally try Padrón peppers at the source—the very place they come from. Sadly, we were told they weren’t available. Whether it was the off-season or they’d already sold out, the legendary peppers were nowhere to be found. A true culinary cliffhanger!
The Sunday Market in Padrón, is a vibrant and historic event that takes place every Sunday morning in the town center. It’s recognized as one of the largest and most popular markets in Galicia, attracting thousands of visitors each week.
With around 600 stalls, Padrón’s Sunday market is a treasure trove where you’ll find everything from socks to screwdrivers. The variety is dizzying—fresh produce, local delicacies, handmade crafts, and more. Needless to say, the bread and cheese selection is phenomenal.
A highlight of the market is the “pulpo á feira” (Galician-style octopus), prepared on-site and served alongside barbecued meats, local wines, and vermouth.
We dove into tender octopus, juicy ribs, and a splash of local wine—absolutely delicious
Beyond the Sunday market, we plunged into Holy Week’s open‑air fair—an explosion of color and energy that features bumper cars, a Ferris wheel and other children’s rides as well as ice cream, cotton candy and other food stalls.
The carnival buzz hit deafening levels — winners of the meat raffle walked away with a leg of ham.
To sweeten the journey, Theresa and I were joined by my son Kyle—fresh off a train from Lisbon via Porto —and her daughter Helen—who touched down in Madrid—for the next leg.
Kyle and Helen grew up in the same neighborhood and went through the same school system. Bet they never thought they’d be walking the same Camino.Good thing our two shiny pennies were with us—they powered through nine miles in under three hours, rest stops included. Theresa and I don’t walk quite that fast.Whipping up dinner in our own flat was a welcome break from restaurant fare.
Nestled at the Pontevedra end of the old Santiago Bridge is a little Chapel of la Virgen del Carmen—a humble granite‑and‑stucco shrine that has watched over the river for centuries.
Legend has it that during a fierce flood, a local fisherman, fearing he’d drown when his boat couldn’t make shore, prayed to Our Lady of Mount Carmel. Miraculously, he washed up on the riverbank exactly where he’d vowed to build a chapel—and so this tiny sanctuary was born. Another tale says a driftwood boat carrying only the Virgin’s image floated by itself to the same spot, inspiring a grateful villager to raise this shrine in her honor .
Though simple in design — the chapel occupies a key point on the Camino Portugués. Medieval pilgrims paid a token toll documented on a nearby stone, and to this day many pause here to light a candle or leave a flower before continuing on toward Santiago .
Theresa and I hit the cobblestones, intent on uncovering every hidden gem. Many treasures were found!
Our next stop is Casa do Cruceiro, a charming rural guesthouse nestled in Raíces less than six miles from Santiago. The rustic charm and serene vibe made for a memorable stay in Raíces.
Dinner was awesome … creamy cheeses, plump prawns, my beloved Padrón peppers, golden potatoes, and a mouthwatering flank steak — total culinary nirvana.
Fueled by a hearty meal and a solid night’s sleep, we were primed for our entrance into Santiago. Stay tuned!
We started the day in Vigo, making our way through several quaint villages enroute to Santiago.
VIGO: We were looking for a breakfast spot and stumbled into what can only be described as an animal farm-themed fever dream call La Cuca. I’m not sure why any restaurateur would sacrifice so much seating to larger-than-life farm animals, but the sheer commitment to the theme was both baffling and hilarious. The over-the-top decor felt more like a whimsical art installation than a brunch café — an unforgettable and thoroughly amusing detour from the usual breakfast routine.
Bigger-than-life farm animal statues added an unexpected layer of absurdity to our eggs and toast.
One of the city’s most iconic and surreal pieces of public art is the El Sireno. It’s located in the heart of the city at Puerta del Sol, one of Vigo’s central plazas.
It’s a striking modernist figure of a humanoid form with the upper body of a man and the lower body of a fish or bird, suspended in midair between two tall pillars.
The sculpture is often interpreted as a symbol of Vigo’s identity — tied deeply to the sea, fishing, transformation and modernity. The hybrid figure represents the connection between human life and the ocean, a key part of Vigo’s history and economy.
El Sireno sparked controversy for its abstract and unconventional style. Over time, though, it has become a beloved and defining symbol of the city.
The Vigo Vertical initiative has integrated outdoor escalators, elevators, and moving walkways to enhance urban mobility and accessibility.
The Gran Via area boasts eight outdoor moving walkways, installed between 2020-2022, facilitating pedestrian movement along this major thoroughfare. These walkways are sheltered by colorful, translucent canopies and are complemented by greenery and seating area, enhancing both functionality and aesthetic appeal.
I’m absolutely hooked on these people movers — after trekking for miles with a 20-lb backpack, gliding up a steep hill on what felt like a flying carpet was an absolute treat.
REDONDELE, known as the “Village of Viaducts,” features two prominent 19th century railway bridges that are emblematic of its landscape.
Viaducto de Madrid is the older of the two structures and features a combination of wrought iron latticework and traditional stone masonry pillars — a cutting-edge design for its time. It was inaugurated in 1876 and the Madrid in 1884.
Historic railway viaducts that have become iconic landmarks that span the town, reflecting its rich railway heritage.The Rande Bridge is a prominent cable-stayed bridge that connects Redondele and Moaña across the Ria de Vigo.The scent of flowers lingers in the breeze.Redondela is traversed by the Alvedosa River which has been channeled through parts of the town to manage its flow and integrate it into the urban landscape. It also adds to the towns charm.
In the heart of Redondela lies historic Os Edison Cemetery, a serene and architecturally significant site nestled within a residential area. Established in 1833 on the grounds of former hospital for the poor and pilgrims, the cemetery was developed by the Redondela City Council to serve the local community.
Os Eidos is renowned for its elegant stone mausoleums, intricate ironwork, and orderly rows of niches, reflecting 19th-century funerary art and Galician cultural heritage. Its tranquil ambiance and historical significance have earned it recognition.
Os Eidos maintains a peaceful atmosphere, offering visitors a reflective space amidst the town’s daily life. It features a unique blend of history, architecture and serenity.
PONTEVEDRA is a historic city and capital of the province of the same name. It’s known for its beautifully preserved old town, pedestrian-friendly streets, and vibrant cultural life.
The Ponte do Burgo is a historic stone arch pedestrian bridge located near the city’s fish market. It connects the historic center with the O Burgo neighborhood. It’s a pedestrian bridge and a significant landmark in Pontevedra.
The bridge features semicircular arches and is adorned with carved stone scallops between the arches, symbolizing the pilgrim’s shell associated with the Camino de Santiago.We paused for a drink and to get our bearings — apparently this pigeon had the same idea and invited itself to the table.
The Fish Market (Mercado de Abastos) is a vibrant and historic market that has been a cornerstone of the city’s culinary and cultural life since 1948. Situated near the historic center and overlooking the Lérez River, the market is housed in a traditional Galician granite building featuring arches and arcades.
The period leading up to Palm Sunday is marked by the traditional sale of intricately woven palm fronds near the fish market. Artisans craft these palms into various shapes, such as crosses and other decorative forms, reflecting a blend of religious symbolism and local craftsmanship.
These woven palms are an integral part of the Palm Sunday celebrations, where they are carried in processions and blessed during church services.
The fish market area becomes especially lively during this time, with vendors displaying their handcrafted palms alongside the usual array of fresh seafood and produce. This convergence of daily commerce and festive preparation offers visitors a unique glimpse into the local customs and communal spirit of Pontevedra during the Easter season.
A funny thing happened on the way to Caldas de Reis — our bus broke down. Without much Spanish, we had to play detective to figure out what was going on.
Some passengers called taxis or friends, while most of us just hung tight, waiting for the rescue bus. Eventually, it rolled in, and just like that, things were back on track.
This church holds the distinction of being the only one in Galicia dedicated to Saint Thomas Becket, the Archbishop of Canterbury. According to tradition, Becket rested in Caldas de Reis during his pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in 1167.
CALDAS DE REIS renowned for its thermal springs, historical significance, and role as a key stop on the Portuguese Way of the Camino de Santiago. Many travelers take advantage of the town’s thermal waters to rest and rejuvenate before continuing their pilgrimage.
The town’s name translates to “Hot Waters of the Kings,” reflecting its long-standing reputation for therapeutic hot springs. Mineral-rich waters emerge at temperatures between 107°C and 118°C. These waters are high in elements like sulphur, lithium, and fluoride, believed to offer various health benefits.
The Roman Bridge is a historic stone bridge that spans the Bermaña River in the heart of this Galician town. Believed to have Roman origins, the bridge has undergone various reconstructions over the centuries, preserving its ancient character.
A medieval cross adorns one side, adding to its historical charm. Its enduring structure has made it a significant landmarkDenmark, Ireland, Germany, Canada, USA, Portugal and Australia represented at our dinner table tonight in Caldas de Reis.
Next stop: Padrón — home of one of my favorite tapas, the irresistible Padrón peppers. To top it off, two visitors from home are joining us on the journey. Stay tuned!
Jane in Spain 