Jane in Spain

It’s Monday and just after noon. My flight landed on time in Portland. My husband, David, flew from Minneapolis this morning and will be picking me up shortly. We will be attending a beach wedding at the end of the week and doing a couple airport pick-ups mid-week. The trip ends with a weekend at a beautiful rental house with family and friends on the beach near Pacific City in Cape Kiwanis. Today’s destination, however, is the coast and Cannon Beach.

Why Cannon Beach? Several people have told me how amazing Cannon Beach is with its ‘haystack’ rock. Not being a beach person, I really didn’t understand what made it so special. So curiosity won out again.

Like clockwork, David with the rental car picked me up as planned. Our road trip to the coast began via the direct route which is about 80 miles. It’s a beautiful drive through the hills covered with fir and spruce trees. There’s a couple quick-stop towns but not much more.

The sun faded slowly as we approached the coast. By the time we arrived, it was overcast, windy and a bit cold. First stop was the coastal town of Seaside, a small picturesque resort town known for its surf breaks and a 1920s style promenade.

Before European settlement, the land that is now Seaside was home to the Clatsop Tribe. They subsisted on a diet of seafood, game, berries, and roots. But fur traders and explorers brought diseases, and a deadly smallpox outbreak eventually killed most of the Clatsop population. By the time the Lewis and Clark arrived, just 250 members of the tribe remained.

Lewis and Clark set up a salt works where ocean water could be boiled to harvest salt. The salt was essential for curing meat. The region slowly grew, and the town of Seaside was established in 1899.

Early on, it was a place for tourists to experience the coast. Seaside had many crazy events but one stands out the most … six months after Pearl Harbor, the town of Seaside witnessed the shelling of Fort Stevens by a Japanese submarine. While there was no significant damage from the shelling, uneasiness settled over the town. Blackout rules became strictly enforced and air raid drills were held. In 1943, it was common for Seaside residents to see blimps flying over the beach, as there was a station in Tillamook to monitor the shore and search for subs. (Information from Seaside Visitors Bureau.)

Next morning … we started down the coast to Tillamook and would return ending in Cannon beach. We wanted to save the best for last.

It’s a very scenic drive with old-growth forests and mesmerizing ocean views.

Rockaway Beach’s claim to fame is the Pronto Pup which was first created here in the 1930s. A Pronto Pup restaurant topped with a giant 30-ft pronto pup complete with an 8-ft stick makes it easy to spot along highway 101. Unfortunately for us, it was closed today.

Hard to miss the next stop just south of Tillamook … the road seems to lead to the Air Museum.

This used to be a hangar for Blimps used for anti-submarine coastal patrol and convoy escort during WWII. The K-Class Blimps were 252-ft long, 80-ft high and filled with helium. With a range of 2000 miles and the ability to stay aloft for 3 days, they were well-suited for coast patrol and convoy escort. Naval Station Tillamook was decommissioned in 1948 and Hangar B has been home to the Tillamook Air Museum.

Today, the museum houses a growing collection of aircraft and exhibits including over 30 restored warbirds and a large collection of rare historical wartime and aviation artifacts.

Our favorite aircraft (which featured David’s last name … Erickson) is the Aero Spacelines Mini Guppy.

Moving up the coast, time for a stop at the Tillamook Cheese factory. Designed by iconic Seattle-based architect duo, Olson-Kundig, The Creamery is made to look like a modern barn.

The Tillamook headquarters is built on the land of the indigenous Tillamook and other Oregon tribes. The Tillamook cooperative is made up of a group of farmer-owners. Many have been farming in Tillamook county for multiple generations.

We filled our pockets with wrapped cheese samples, skipped the ice cream and headed out for seafood.

Up the coast … next stop Cannon Beach and the Haystack rock. According to the tourism info, it is one of Oregon’s most recognizable landmarks, home to colorful tide pools and diverse bird life.

From a distance, it did look like a haystack. It was low tide so we were able to walk right up to it.

So what is this thing? It’s not a rock! It’s covered with mussels and barnacles.

It’s the remnants of a volcanic flow that came down the Columbia gorge from a super-volcano in Yellowstone about 17 million years ago.

According to the Haystack Rock Awareness Program volunteer, the lava flowed along the old Columbia River drainage system to the ocean and intruded into the soft marine sediments. Eventually with sea level changes and erosion, these bizarre formations can be seen all along the Oregon coast.

ABOVE the Barnacle line is protected as part of the Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge, providing habitat and viewing of a wide range of seabirds. BELOW the Barnacle line is protected by Oregon’s Marine Gardens. Its protected status requires that no animal or material be removed from within 300 yards of Haystack Rock. Climbing above the barnacle line is strictly prohibited to avoid disturbing marine life and nesting birds.

There are mussels, shells, barnacles and sea creatures everywhere! The volunteer said these living organisms are waiting for the tide to come back and take them out to sea.

Beautiful green sea anemones were found in shallow tidal pools. We also saw a variety of crabs of all sizes.

And if you look up above the haystack, there are birds everywhere. The volunteer said there are 37 different species of birds living in the haystack. Early spring to mid-summer offers the most accessible viewing of Tufted Puffins in the Northwest. A wide variety of other birds make this a good bird-watch location year-round.

Now I know what makes Cannon Beach so amazing. It’s like a living aquarium full of creatures to be discovered. With the tide, the inhabitants change and so does the Haystack Rock which is the result of a 17 million year old lava flow.

Tomorrow we’re heading back to Portland to pick up a few travelers and take a glance at Portland.

Typically on cruise ships, passengers are asked to have their packed bags in the hallway by 10:00 pm the night before. The crew picks up the bags and organizes them for disembarkment in the morning.

In the morning, everyone needs to be out of their stateroom by 9:00 am. Rather than have 5,000 guests trying to get off the ship at the same time, passengers are asked to go to their muster station where they wait until their group is called. It’s an orderly way of processing bags and passengers.

When preparing for the cruise, passengers are asked to schedule their outgoing flight for departure after 2:00 pm which allows plenty of time to get off the ship and make their way to the airport.

I was quite surprised to see that this ship was encouraging people to take their own bags off the ship and provided an early time slot for doing so. I’m not excited about schlepping my bags anywhere especially down the gangway. However, I hadn’t abided by the ship’s request and had booked my departure flight for 1:00 pm. Being a little nervous about getting to the airport in a timely manner, I was eager to leave early even if it meant lugging my luggage. Theresa’s flight wasn’t until 5:00 pm but she was eager to get moving, so we decided we would take the early departure invitation and haul our own bags.

Sally and the Golden Girls opted for the standard departure and pre-purchased passes for the shuttle bus to the airport. They had a late afternoon flight also.

I wonder if this new ‘take your bags and get off the ship’ option was the result of covid and less contact or a way to help the crew with the monumental task of clearing the ship before the monumental task of preparing for the next sailing’s passengers which would begin arriving around noon.

No coffee room-service this morning. Even though it was dark when we arrived in Seattle, our early morning awakening was rewarded with a beautiful sunrise over Seattle.

Theresa and I started our departure journey around 7:15 am. It was a short walk down the gangway and through the terminal. Out the door where a dozen taxi’s were waiting. We found one quickly, loaded our bags and jumped in. The familiarity of Seattle streets from our visit last week made for a happy ride down memory lane with a sunny day bonus.

To our surprise, we were at the airport in 30 minutes … around 8:00 am. We split the cab fare which came to $30 each — about the same price as the shuttle bus to the airport.

I went to check my bag while Theresa went to see if she could get on an earlier flight even though she had a non-refundable ticket. I never saw her again at the airport — she was able to get on a 9:30 flight. We said our goodbyes by phone.

Our Seattle-Alaska adventure had reached its final destination. Theresa was on her way home and back to reality. Where was I headed? On to the next adventure. Stay tuned. I’ll give you a hint — it’s not Spain.

Sunday morning at sea … the further south we went, the better the weather. Our challenge of the day was to see if it would be possible to find today’s Packer game somewhere on the ship.

YES! We found the Packers vs Buccaneers game at one of the ship’s bars. It was very odd because there weren’t any Buccaneer fans and I think Theresa, Sally and I were the only Packer fans. I guess everyone else in the bar just like watching football.

The jewelry store was packed shoulder-to-shoulder … there was a drawing for those who purchased anything during the week.

Earlier in the week we pulled Sue into the jewelry store at the last minute to enter a drawing where you had to identify three stones … and she won — Sally had provided all the correct answers for all of us. That’s teamwork.

Our ship pulled into Victoria. There was an empty cruise ship next to us. The guests were probably out seeing Victoria. The ship’s big outdoor screen was broadcasting the Packer game which Terry was watching from our balcony.

Going ashore in Victoria … we had an early dinner and said goodbye to our wait staff who took good care of us all week.

Oh Canada! It was so much work to correctly complete the online ArriveCAN app requirements for this short four-hour visit. The purpose was to minimize contact at customs as a Covid precaution. When we arrived, there was one custom officer who waved us through with no stopping. On previous visits, we waited in lines for them to check and stamp passports.

On our short visit to Victoria, we opted to see the night lights of Victoria. We enjoyed a tour narrated by a good-humored bus driver.

The last sunset … a pleasant way to end an Alaskan adventure. Tomorrow is an early departure.

Today we start the journey back to Seattle with a brief stop in Victoria tomorrow night. Plenty of activities on board during the ‘At Sea’ days. It’s not raining today but there are gale force winds rocking the boat. The closed pools were sloshing and outdoor activities were cancelled. We took a visit to the top deck. Notice Theresa and I are the only ones on the top deck??

Back inside … most days the shopping floor features many bargains … winter wear, jackets, caps, watches, bags, perfume, jewelry and more. There’s usually a feeding frenzy of shoppers gathering round the counters especially early in the day.

Cruise ship food is amazing and I think on just about any cruise ship, you’ll find something appealing plus more. We loved having escargot for an appetizer on the dinner menu. Lots of steak, prime rib, seafood, and interesting things to try.

Typically, Theresa and I would order coffee and something light from room service to be delivered early like around 7:00 am. We’d follow up a few hours later with breakfast or sometimes later for lunch.

When it came to breakfast or lunch, we opted for the restaurant over the buffet … we like being waited on which doesn’t happen too often. Even though it’s the same restaurant, the menu changes daily.

Today, I found something on the lunch menu that I had always been curious about but never really felt compelled to try until today … chicken & waffles. I’ve seen this down south at Waffle House establishments and never understood the logic of wrecking good chicken with waffles and syrup. Apparently my kids have had it somewhere and like it. Curiosity won out today.

Doing a little research, I found out that Chicken & Waffles is not a new thing at all. Chicken and waffles came to Los Angeles by 1931, when they were served at The Maryland, a restaurant that marketed the dish as a Southern specialty. But my research shows that Chicken & Waffles are not found in any of the ‘big name’ southern cook books. So is it really a southern thing?

In New York, the dish was served in the African-American community in Harlem as early as the 1930s in such locations as Tillie’s Chicken Shack, Richard Wells’ jazz nightclub, and particularly the Wells Supper Club. In 1935 Bunny Berigan composed a jazz instrumental titled “Chicken and Waffles”.

Since the 1970s, chicken and waffles have gained popularity in Los Angeles due to the fame of former Harlem resident Herb Hudson’s restaurant Roscoe’s House of Chicken and Waffles which has become known as a favorite of some Hollywood celebrities, referenced in several movies which spun off several more locations into a small chain.

My review of the cruise ship Chicken & Waffles … the chicken was so good I almost dumped the waffles but I knew this would be one of the few times (only time) I would try this delicacy. I’m not a fan of waffles or pancakes but will eat them if forced by some over zealous relative who loves making them. The combination of chicken and waffles with gravy was ok. I still can’t imagine eating this combination with syrup. Even if its a gravy thing it’s not something I would seek out or order instead of a good omelet or egg option. Chicken & Waffles just doesn’t make sense to me. (Historical information from 50Kitchen.com; TastingTable.com; Wikipedia.org)

Onward! Theresa and I went to the “Napkin Folding” session. It was fun and creative. Crazy to see how many people showed up to fold napkins.

Theresa and I also attended the “Zen Coloring” along with a few dozen other people. This was a very relaxing quiet time.

Now it’s time for Bingo! I can’t remember the last time I played bingo but it wasn’t for $1000. This awesome glass room was filled with eager bingo players plus a crazy long line of people wanting to buy cards.

Juneau is a mountain town and a coastal community surrounded by extremely rugged terrain making it one of the most scenic capital cities in the United States. It’s so rugged, it’s virtually an island with all goods and visitors coming and going by plane or boat even though it is part of mainland Alaska.

The view of Juneau was stunning with the balcony door shut. Open the door and say hello to winter weather. It was cold and damp. Dark clouds and a good breeze were sure to be followed with rain.

The weather was worse than we hoped. All excursions and outdoor activities were cancelled due to the weather. We may have missed the typhoon but this felt like payback.

There was the usual activity at the gangway but this time passengers were turning around and retreating until the weather improved … it’s a short window today, the ship was departing at 3:00 pm.

It was a short walk to the main streets of Juneau and like everyone else, we ducked into the first retail option we could find. It was a very warm and welcoming woolen goods store.

No matter where we walked, we were overshadowed and overwhelmed by the mountains. They were hard to see with the sinking clouds and fog that was setting in as it started to rain harder.

Back on the ship and hungry, we opted for the first thing we saw … pizza. Not far from the gangway is a little pizza shop. This tiny pizza factory serves 1500 pizzas per day. Watching, it was a constant flow of pizza prep with oven doors opening and closing every few minutes and a constant flow of hungry people.

No time for napping this afternoon. Going to line dancing with Sally, the dancing queen. Being a few weeks away from 87, she has boundless energy and knows most of the dances. Me … I’m not much of a dancer and could never keep up with this crowd which moved like they were at an advanced aerobics class.

Back at sea, the weather had calmed down and looks nice. Step through that balcony door and it’s a different story.

Our ship was scheduled to go to Skagway but had a last minute change substituting Icy Strait Point because of high winds in Skagway. Along with Icy Strait Point, a shuttle to the village of Hoonah was available.

Icy Strait Point is a purpose-built cruise ship port that offers activities and excursions. The port is under the authority of the Alaska Huna Totem Corporation and its Alaska native shareholders. All profits directly go to support the people and town of Hoonah.

Hoonah is located on the northwest shore of Chichagof Island across Icy Strait from the entrance to Glacier Bay. Hoonah is the principal village for the Huna Tlingit tribe that has occupied the area for centuries.

At one time, Hoonah was also home to the Alaskan Bush Family, a reality show on the Discovery channel about the Brown family attempting to survive in the wilderness, detached from modern society.

Not wanting to detach from modern society, Theresa, Sally and I went to the Vitality Spa for massages and followed it with breakfast in the dining room before disembarking to Ice Strait Point.

The port features authentic replications of the culture and history of the Huna people and includes the completely restored salmon cannery that burned down in 1944. All proceeds from tourism in this town go back to the Huna Tlingit and the Huna Totem Corporation.

On the way to the Cannery Museum, we passed a small narrow cemetery bordered by a white picket fence and tall trees. There was no plaque or signage acknowledging the cemetery.

All of the graves had coins either scattered on the grave or stacked on the headstone. According to the Department of Military Affairs, a coin left on a headstone lets the deceased soldier’s family know that somebody stopped by to pay their respect; a penny means you visited; a nickel means you and the deceased veteran trained at boot camp together; a dime means you and the deceased veteran served together in some capacity; a quarter is very significant because it means that you were there when that veteran died. Perhaps this cemetery was for fishermen or those who died in nearby seas.

The Hoonah Canning Company opened in 1912. It now houses stores, but also has a small canning museum mixed among the wares.

Chinese immigrant workers provided most of the inexpensive labor during the early days. Men were typically recruited to work on the fishing vessels. Women were recruited to work in the canneries because they had smaller versatile hands.

This free museum educates visitors about the different types of salmon, the canning process and a variety of fishing vessels. With all the cutting and cleaning devices, it must have been a dangerous place to work

On to Hoonah which is Alaska’s largest Tlingit village. To get there from Icy Strait Point, you can either take a shuttle or walk. It lies about 1.5 miles down the road from Icy Strait Point and has a population of approximately 750 people. Oddly enough, there are eight churches of various denominations.

There are two small grocery stores and everything is flown or barged into town. Prices are high and variety of product is limited … a loaf of bread costs $10-13, a gallon of milk is $9 and a head of lettuce is $6.

The town of Hoonah will give you an excellent chance to talk to Tlingit natives and learn about their culture. We chatted with a bark weaver at one of the small stores. He told us about the hats he makes.

Dan said bark weaving is a tradition he learned from his mother. He uses strands of cedar and works to make them pliable enough to weave.

In the middle of Hoonah, we found a carving hut where two men were carving a totem pole. The man we spent the most time talking with told us the Tlingit community didn’t have a written language until very recently. He remembers coming home and showing his mother his written name. To the best of his knowledge his name is written as “Yandus”. All of their stories and history have been passed down orally and through art.

Yandus also told us about the expiring art of weaving Spruce root and cedar baskets which he learned from his mother. A few baskets he had made were passed down to his children as a reminder and keepsake of their heritage.

In the Tlingit society, there are two moieties, Eagle and Raven. If you are Tlingit, you are either Eagle or Raven. When you are born, you inherit the clan and crest of your mother. Your father is honored through song and dance.

The first people of the area, the Tlingits, made long canoes out of a single tree for fishing, hunting and transportation.

It was a long day of exploring Icy Strait Point and Hoonah. We saw seals and a whale in their natural habitat but no bear. Even though Chichagof Island has the highest population of bears per square mile of any place on Earth, the only bear we saw was in our cabin when we returned to the cruise ship.

Information taken from literature found at the Huna Indian Association Tribal House and from Glacier Bay National Park public newsletter.

First stop is Ketchikan. Located at the southernmost entrance to Alaska’s Inside Passage, the ship works its way through a network of waterways and some of the most beautiful wilderness in the world. Ketchikan is known for salmon, incredible scenery, totem poles and rain … it is the rain capital of Alaska and on average gets some form of precipitation on about 234 days per year.

Today we’re headed out on the “Deadliest Catch Crab Fishermen’s Tour”. The “Aleutian Ballad” is a fishing boat that was featured on the Discovery Channel’s “Deadliest Catch” season 2. According to its crew, the boat is the luckiest boat around having survived countless near-tragedies in the storm ravaged Bering Sea.

Before the boat’s luck ran out, the owner decided to retire the boat and retrofitted it for guests comfort and fun, with a “live” tank on deck to allow for closer viewing of the creatures brought on board. Their presentation included personal stories about the hazards and tragedies of this dangerous occupation as well as their love for the sea and fishing.

It’s a beautiful sunny day in Ketchikan … we had been hearing about a typhoon that was devastating Alaska. When asked about it, Andy, one of the crab fishing crew said that typhoon is on the other side of the Aleutian Island chain. The gulf of Alaska is protected by the Aleutian Islands. The weather so far on this trip has been incredible.

The crew was very genuine and dedicated to educating visitors about their fishing heritage and the local Metlakatla Indian Community located on Annette Island reservation. The surrounding waters where the tour takes place is part of the reservation. According to the Tour’s agreement with the Metlakatla tribe, all sea creatures brought aboard are returned to the water except for the rockfish which die quickly in 3-4 minutes. They are used for bait.

Back in Ketchikan, we still have a couple hours before the cruise ship departs. On previous trips, I’ve visited Totem Bight State Historical Park and Saxman Village to explore Totem Poles. Not enough time today to do either. The streets of Ketchikan are full of shops that sell Tanzanite jewelry, furs and other tourist souvenirs.

Our ship is in and we’re ready to roll. Weeks before embarkation, we were required to download the cruise line’s app and complete required check-in information online. Also required within 48 hours was a verified covid test and receipt of a QR code with the results. Another “joyful” experience was completing the ArriveCAN app for a short little five hour visit to Victoria during the cruise. ArriveCAN had to be completed within 72 hours of embarkation on the cruise ship. At the terminal, it took minutes for the crew members to check passports, covid vaccinations, covid results and ArriveCAN verification.

The new digital requirements are the result of Covid. The purpose is to eliminate or minimize as much human contact as possible. In the old days a few years ago, the check-in would be done at the cruise terminal, not online. One of the benefits of these changes is that it expedites the process and allows passengers to get through the line and on board quicker.

Today we’re meeting up with the rest of our group … Mary, Toni, Sally (my mother-in-law) and her twin sister Sue. You wouldn’t believe it, but the average age of this golden foursome is around 80. Most of them have graduated from Smart Phone 101 and had a little help downloading all the cruise requirements to their phones. They are a delightful group to travel with.

Back on the Hop-On Hop-Off bus. Today we’re hopping off at Seattle Center. The number one thing we wanted to see this weekend is the Chihuly museum. Like everything else, we had to buy tickets in advance and reserve a time slot.

Pike Place Market is a popular spot but today we don’t have time to roam its nine acres of fish tossing, deli food, artisan crafts and countless other things. In previous visits to Seattle, I have enjoyed its significant international presence. It’s easy to find French pastries, Russian piroshkis, Persian kebobs, Thai curries and much, much more.

Pike’s Place is the original farmer’s market and the center of locally sourced artisan and specialty foods. The first Starbucks can be found here. It is one of the country’s oldest and largest farmer’s markets which has welcomed over 10 million visitors since its start in 1907. It’s in the top 50 most visited tourist attractions in the world but not today for us — we are heading for the Chihuly museum.

Finally we have reached our destination for the day — Chihuly Garden and Glass. The centerpiece is the Glasshouse, a tall, glass and steel structure of light-filled space which holds an expansive long sculpture.

The world knows Dale Chihuly as a glass artist. Being from Tacoma, his reputation as Seattle’s most famous artist is one facet of his life. He began his career with weaving and incorporated glass shards into woven tapestries which led him to blow his first glass bubble in 1965.

Chihuly is credited with transforming the methods of creating glass art leading to the development of complex, multi-part glass sculptures and environmental art.

Macchia is Italian for spot … inspired to use all 300 colors in his hot shop studio, Chihuly explored unexpected color combinations with the Macchia series. Chihuly adds brightly colored spots for a speckled effect.

Opened in May 2012, Chihuly Garden and Glass is already a top tourist attraction, quickly outdoing its more established neighbors like the Space Needle as one of the most highly recommended things to do in Seattle. Our tour ended in the gift shop which offered small Chihuly pieces for $5-10K. We bought magnets instead.

Close to the Chihuly exhibit we discovered the start of the monorail. Having had glimpses of the monorail around town, we enthusiastically decided we just had to ride it.

Not knowing anything about the monorail beforehand, we discovered it is a two-minute ride with only one-stop. We felt like little kids who had just ridden the kiddie train at the zoo. We had a good laugh. Looking around, we did notice that there were a lot of kids riding the monorail.

Built for the 1962 Seattle World’s Fair, the monorail is the fastest way to travel between downtown and Seattle Center. It is the world’s first full-scale ALWEG monorail system. Alweg was a transportation company based in Germany known for pioneering straddle-beam monorails.

Speaking of MoPop, that is one stop we wish we could have done but we didn’t have enough time on this trip. The Museum of Pop Culture’s mission is to make creative expression a life-changing force by offering experiences that inspire and connect communities.

It was founded by Microsoft co-founder Paul Allen in 2000 as the Experience Music Project. It has the world’s largest collection of artifacts, hand-written lyrics, personal instruments, and original photographs celebrating the music and history of Seattle musician Jimi Hendrix and the band Nirvana.

Exhibits feature pop culture, from the art of fantasy, horror cinema, and video games to science fiction literature and costumes from screen and stage.

One of the reasons we didn’t have time for MoPop was because it was Sunday afternoon. Had to find a Packer bar.

Buckley’s Pub was a short 4-5 blocks downhill from the Space Needle. Coincidentally, we happen to see someone wearing a Packer shirt by the Space Needle. As usual when I see a Packer fan I do a little “Go Pack Go” shout. This was a couple from Florida who just happened to be looking for a place to watch the Packer’s game. We mentioned that we were going to Buckley’s Pub which was touted on google as being a fun Packer pub. Theresa and I started wandering toward Buckleys.

With Pudget Sound in the background, it was a scenic ten minute walk to Buckley’s through a pleasant neighborhood. We arrived in time to see the Seattle Seahawks lose 27-7 to the 49ers. Being an empathetic person I felt sorry for the disappointed Seattle fans at Buckley’s.

Coming from Minnesota, I see this kind of disappointment often with Viking fans, many of which are my friends. With that said, I must mention that the Vikings recently beat the Packers 23-7 at US Bank Stadium in Minneapolis. It’s all fun.

When we were seated on the Packer side of the bar, it was confusing to see someone wearing a Viking jersey sitting at the table next to us. Hoping we were at the right place, we discovered the Viking fan was from Hudson, Wisconsin (even more shameful). This misguided but very personable young man blamed it on his family of Viking fans. Nick had just moved to Seattle and reassured us that the Viking bar was elsewhere.

Shortly after the start of the game, we saw our acquaintances from the Space Needle walk through the door. We waved them over to our table. It was really fun having Packer fans to party with. Theresa and Abbie were less interested in football so there was some interesting crosstalk going on while the game proceeded. I’m good at multi-tasking so I tuned into the conversation when the game permitted.

Kindered spirits attract. Abbie is a very talented person who does graphic design, excels in pottery and is an entrepreneur. Her pottery has been promoted on Etsy but she is striving to create her own website and find other ways of marketing her creativity.

Confident that the Packers were going to win, we cut out of Buckleys during the 4th quarter of the game and headed back to Chinatown. Our Hostel receptionist Jessie had recommended a nearby restaurant called Fort St. George. We were eager to try it.

Fort St. George was a lovely place with quiet ambiance. The food was touted as Japanese comfort food and it hit the spot.

Packers beat the Bears 27-10. It was another great day in Seattle.

Seattle is called the Emerald City because it has a vast number of evergreen trees that remain green and beautiful all year long.

Hotel rooms in Seattle are very expensive. The moderately priced ones start around $200 per night. Since Theresa and I have experienced many albuergues in Spain, we were curious about American hostels and thought this might be a good time to test the waters. Green Tortoise is promoted as ‘Seattle’s Best Hostel’ and was close to Pike Place Market.

We opted for the HI Seattle Hostel in Chinatown because it seemed to be a quieter area and we could get a private room with bath for about $145/night. They also offered less expensive options like a room with a shared bath and also dormitory rooms with several bunk beds.

We were somewhat apprehensive about staying in Chinatown. When friends and family heard we were staying there, they warned us that it could be dangerous, ‘don’t stay out after dark’, etc. We found it to be anything but dangerous. It was a warm and friendly neighborhood. The housing buildings looked new and modern. Streets are wide, clean and well maintained. Restaurants, tea shops, a dumpling house, bakeries, chicken and Korean hot dogs could be found a footsteps from our door.

On the block past our hotel was Hing Hay Park which translates into Celebrate Happiness Public Park. Built in the 1970s it features principles of feng shui and is a popular spot for martial arts practitioners, quiet morning meditation, a meeting place for local families and the center of many festivals and celebrations.

When we checked-into the HI Seattle Hostel, I was delighted to find that it has an elevator. Hauling my almost 50-lb suitcase up a flight of stairs would be devastating. We were greeted by Jessie, a delightful receptionist who checked us in. She provided the necessary details about our stay and how everything worked. It was easy to tell that she loved this building and the neighborhood. She said she has been a local resident for about 14 years and had nothing but praise for the neighborhood.

The hostel featured a couple community rooms, a kitchen and a laundry room. Breakfast is included and offered between 7 and 9 am. Guests choose from coffee, fresh oranges, bananas, granola bars, instant oatmeal and cereal.

The HI Seattle Hostel is an older building and our room was basic, functional and immaculate. The bunk bed had a double bed on the bottom, a single on top. The memory foam mattress was comfortable.

Each bed had four electrical outlets a fan and a light. Very comfortable. A desk, a couple chairs and open closet shelving rounded out the room. Nothing fancy about the bathroom which had a tub and shower. Towels and soap included.

Our room’s window faced King Street. On Saturday morning we heard a lot of talking and activity across the street in a parking lot. There is a super big Asian market a block away and we thought maybe these people were going there to shop. However it appeared to be clusters of young adults, mostly men dispersed throughout the lot. They didn’t seem to be going anywhere and there was a lot of loud cars and vroom vroom action. Eventually I found a few friendly-looking faces and inquired about why they were there.

It was a car meet-up. They gather in this parking lot once a month on Saturday mornings to be social and show off cars and see what’s new. I was told they intentionally meet at this lot to support the shops and restaurants in the neighborhood.

The Hop-On Hop-Off bus is a great option if you have limited time for sight seeing. This one hits all of the essential Seattle must-see sights.

One lap around on the Hop-On Hop-Off took about an hour-and-a-half. Back in Chinatown, we needed a lunch break. We picked up Korean corn dogs, mango milk bubble tea for me and a strawberry smoothie for Theresa. We retreated to the Hostel kitchen-dining room.

After our lunch break, we walked over to the Uwajimaya market and Kinokuniya book store. This place is fairly new, super large and offers a massive variety of groceries, liquor, cookware, novelties in addition to a food court with many authentic and interesting choices.

At the Kinokuniya book store, I found the perfect gift for my squirrelly 10-year-old nephew Graham. It’s a Squirrel in Underpants car air freshener. I can’t wait to see whose car he hangs this in — mom Alisa’s car? Tony or Ellak’s, Grandma Susan would love to drive around with a Squirrel air freshener. Or perhaps he’ll hang it in his room.

We walked back to our King Street hostel block and decided it had been a long enough day and it was time for a beer. On the corner next to the Chinatown gate is Joe’s Bar & Grill. Not many customers when we entered but it soon filled.

Hunger set in and we wandered down the block. There were a dozen or so restaurants to choose from but somehow we narrowed it down to the Shanghai Garden. The quiet, calm and peaceful ambiance was appreciated as was the attentive service. Being adventurous, we tried two dishes that were new to us.

This happy surprise-filled day was so much fun but it wore us out. We were tucked into our bunk beds by 8:30 pm (10:30 pm Minnesota time). It was an unplanned but full day of adventure. Looking forward to whatever Seattle has to offer tomorrow.

We’re off on another adventure but this time it’s not in Spain. Theresa and I have just arrived in Seattle for a couple days and then we board a ship for Alaska.

If I were a superstitious person I would have concerns right now. Joining us on the cruise will be my mother-in-law Sally who said this will be her 13th Alaskan cruise. Her twin sister Sue and friends Toni and Mary will round out our party of six. Theresa and I will meet them at the cruise terminal Monday around noon.

Adding to the superstitious concern is a schedule change to our cruise route. A few weeks ago the cruise line informed us that one of the four engines on our ship needs repair and there are supply chain issues delaying the repair. A second engine is due for maintenance. The route was changed to accommodate the two downed engines by eliminating some of the mileage because the ship will have to travel slower. But we were assured it is safe and they threw in a little bribe of $100 credit for each cabin.

The 13th cruise and two missing engines — no big deal! However, a big typhoon is hitting the Alaskan coast today (Friday). The cruise line informed us of another schedule change because of anticipated high winds in Skagway. Today’s CBS news said the Alaskan coast is flooding, they’re having 18-ft swells and expecting 60 mph winds. My husband David encouraged me to pick up Dramamine before boarding.

Adding to the drama, Theresa’s co-worker informed her that six planets are aligned — anything can happen now. Some believe that human affairs and terrestrial events are affected by the position of the planets and other celestial bodies. I would like to believe that peace will guide the planets and love will stir the stars.

To summarize, we have Sally’s 13th cruise on a ship that’s missing two engines in the midst of a typhoon while six planets are aligned. That spells ADVENTURE!

You’re welcome to join Theresa and I as we explore Seattle. Follow our cruise ship escapades by staying tuned to Jane (Not) In Spain.

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We are definitely ready to go home. I wouldn’t call this trip a “vacation”, it was more of a journey. Our Air Europa flight from Barcelona arrived in Madrid early afternoon and we were settled in the hotel around 2:00 pm. It was a beautiful afternoon so we decided to take a final wander around Madrid.

We usually fly into Spain through Madrid. Puerta del Sol has become our home base when we travel to Spain. Over the years, we’ve covered a lot of turf in Madrid and it always brings a bit of joy to walk to our favorite places.

When you order a ‘gin tonika’ in Madrid and much of Spain, it’s always a show. They bring out the glasses with ice, the bottles of tonic and the bottle of gin. Then they ceremoniously pour the gin. They are usually very generous with the gin because the tonic is the expensive part of the drink.

Puerta del Sol in central Madrid is one of the best known and busiest squares.

Wednesday Morning! It was smooth sailing at the airport. It didn’t take long to check our backpacks and go through security. Now it was time to relax and enjoy all the memories.

Buen Camino and Happy Trails!

The CDC requires those traveling internationally to get a viral test no more than 3 days before traveling by air into the United States (US) and to show a negative result to the airline before boarding a flight.

Before leaving the US, we purchased verified antigen test kits from American Airlines. We purchased and split a 6-pack for $160. Each of us carried two kits so we would each have a back up.

Now it’s about 48 hours before our flight and we’re back at the hotel so it’s a good time to take care of this.

We already have the NAVICA app on our cell phones. We downloaded it before we left the US. We opened the NAVICA app. The NAVICA app started the process by having us scan the QR code on the packaging … the one located under the “Do Not Open” sleeve.

The next thing is to go to the emed.com site. This is where we connect with the technician who is going to monitor the test. The site has an option to “Start Testing”. Then it asks simple questions like ‘what state are you from?’ Then it asks you to connect to the NAVICA site.

The app will tell you how many minutes it will take for the technician to connect with you. The technician will guide you through the process and tell you exactly what to do.

Then the tech walks you through the process of setting up the test. In the presence of the tech, you swab your nose and insert the swab into the test slot.

Next, there is a 15 minute wait while the test specimen is developed. You don’t have to sit there, you can move around but the test specimen has to stay in the presence of the technician. After the 15 minutes, the technician tells you the results and will email a QR code with the results.

The next step is to open the American Airlines VeriFLY app. Log in and indicate that you are taking a trip to the US. It will tell you everything that is required including the QR code with covid test results. Scan the QR code or send it from your NAVICA app.

After you have completed all the requirements for American Airlines VeriFLY, they will label your digital flight portfolio as a “Confident Traveler”.

When you go to the airport, all you have to do is show them your “Confident Traveler” document on your cell phone and you’re on your way.

When it rains, it pours. And today was a pouring rainy day. Tomorrow we head to Madrid and the following day we fly home. However, we were notified that Renfe was anticipating a strike and we were advised to cancel our train tickets to Madrid and find another way there.

The choices we had we to take the Alsa bus which is an eight hour ride or find a flight. The thought of being on a bus for eight hours the day before being on airplanes for 12 hours was not appealing. We found a flight on Air Europa for about $50. We booked it without thinking twice.

We had Sagrada Família reservations for 9:30. Navigating the metro always take a little time at first to figure it out. We did find our way and all was good. We found our tour group and had a little wait … in the rain.

Gaudi took the helm of the construction work on Sagrada Família in 1883. He died in 1926. Even though the construction is not finished today, work continues facilitating his philosophy and plans.

There is so much to see at Sagrada Família and one visit probably isn’t enough. After three hours we decided to head back to our neighborhood. Time for a visit to the Mercado.

The market is a bustling place and has countless booths with many delectable options for breakfast, lunch or dinner.

Now it’s time to start preparing for our trip home.

Mallorca was a joy ride and I hope I get the opportunity to return some day. We barely scratched the surface of this fascinating island.

After Theresa and I completed the 2017 walk on the Camino Frances, David and I toured around Spain for a couple weeks. We spent some time in Barcelona so this isn’t my first visit. When I think of Barcelona, I think of Gaudi and his amazing work which can be found throughout Spain. Gaudi anything is high on my priority list.

Theresa and I are limited on our time in Barcelona. We have approximately a day and a half for touring. Sagrada Família is high on Theresa’s bucket list and it’s so amazing that I welcome the opportunity to see it again. Because it is so popular, we did reserve tickets in advance over a month ago from home.

After we landed in Barcelona and got settled in our Las Ramblas hotel, we headed for Park Guell which is a much treasured leisure area for the people of Barcelona. It was designed by Antoni Gaudi between 1900-1914 at the request of Eusebi Guell.

The original request was to create a housing development for families within an estate popularly known as Bare Mountain. The development had a series of restrictive requirements. Construction of the park was carried out during Gaudi’s naturalist stage when he perfected his personal style, inspired by the organic forms of nature.

Eusebi died in 1918 and his heirs offered the park to Barcelona City Council, which agreed to the purchase in 1922. It was not opened as a municipal park until 1926 and has since been the city’s most important and prominent park. casabatllo.es

A total stranger gave us these roses. It was an older woman who had been dining with her husband. She laid the roses on our table and said, ‘these are for you lovely ladies.’ What a nice way to end our first day in Barcelona.

The most spectacular views in Mallorca are found on the North coast in the mountains in the Serra de Tramuntana.

Windmills, dating from the 16th to the 19th centuries are still a significant feature of the landscape on Mallorca. The ones with the “arrow” feature are used for extracting water into a reservoir. Many are commonly seen in poor state of repair. Today their presence is so inherent to the island’s heritage that the Mallorcan government developed a project dedicated to their restoration and preservation. firstmallorca.com

The cultural landscape of the Serra de Tramuntana is an example of the Mediterranean agricultural landscape. The system of terraces and cobbled road network, common to many Mediterranean landscapes, is combined with an articulated network of devices for the management of water, revolving around farming units designated in the Middle Ages. Several villages, churches, sanctuaries, towers, lighthouses and small dry-stone structures punctuate the terraced landscape and contribute to its actual character. abc-mallorca.com

The Serra de Tramuntana mountains plummet dramatically into the Mediterranean. The tiny coastal village of Sa Calobra has two beaches trapped between spectacular cliffs.

It was still warm when we returned from the day of touring. I walked down to our beach and took a dip in the Mediterranean. The water wasn’t cold and it wasn’t warm. It was perfect. Soft sand could be felt under my feet and seen through clear blue water. Gliding through the gentle waves, I watched the sailboats off in the distance as the sun began to set. What a memorable moment and one of the highlights of my trip to Spain.

Our time in Mallorca is nearing an end. Now what? Tomorrow we fly to Barcelona on another Ryan Air bargain flight. Our ticket to fly from Mallorca to Barcelona was $12 in addition to the $19 for a seat and another $37 to check my backpack. With prices like this, I am a happy traveler.

The Oleander hotel was about three miles from the heart of Palma. It was very convenient to take the city bus. We caught it about a block from the hotel.

The 13th century Cathedral of Santa Maria of Palma is massive. It is a Gothic landmark that overlooks the Bay of Palma. It was built on the site of a pre-existing Arab mosque. An admission is charged and they encourage visitors to purchase tickets in advance. We paid at the door and there was no waiting.

The building was started in 1229 and finished in 1601. Fifty years after a restoration of the cathedral had started in 1901 Antoni Gaudí was invited to take over the restoration project. Some of his ideas were adopted. He moved the choir stalls from the middle nave to be closer to the altar. He also made a large canopy. Gaudí abandoned his work in 1914 after an argument with the contractor. The planned changes were cosmetic rather than structural.* The project was cancelled soon after … and it looks like it. There is so much to look at it can be overwhelming to the senses and hard to focus on the design elements. *abcmallorca.com

Relics are suppose to be an object or article of religious significance from the past. Many of these lavish holders contain bones from the Saints and its a way to honor the individual. I think I’d prefer a nice photo instead.

About those pearls … Mallorca has been producing man-made pearls since the end of the 19th century, and is still doing so today. Natural pearls are formed within the soft tissue of an oyster or mollusk, are very rare and can take anywhere between 5 and 20 years to form.

It was with this in mind that Eduard Heusch, a German innovator invented a process for creating man-made pearls. He obtained the first patent to create pearls and founded the company Societe des Perles de Indes E. Heusch & Co. Which is today known as Majorica and is located in Manacor. The patent belonging to Majorica lapsed in 1948 and since then a number of pearl manufacturing companies have popped up all with similar processing techniques. balearic-villas.com

We rambled down the narrow streets of the old town part of Palma. We were lost and continued to ramble looking for a place for lunch.

Túnel de Mallorca is a herb liqueur made from rosemary, chamomile, mint, fennel and marjoram. Crafted to display the aroma of the Mediterranean. It is popular and traditional across all of the Balearic Islands. Often served over ice, this is a perfect after-dinner drink.

Hierbas is also popular throughout Spain. Many families have a ‘family recipe’ for their hierbas that has been handed down through the generations.

We have one whole day left and a lot of Mallorca left to see. Our best option was to sign up for a tour. Tomorrow we do the mountains.

Mallorca has been on my bucket list since Theresa and I started going to Spain in 2017, I just never thought it was a possibility. Now, we are headed there.

I didn’t know much about Mallorca (aka Majorca) but did some speed reading research to catch up before going there. It’s one of Spain’s Balearic Islands in the Mediterranean so of course it’s know for its beaches. Apparently, it is one of the most popular destinations in the Mediterranean. It’s known for secluded coves, limestone mountains and Spanish architecture. We have three days to find out what Mallorca is all about.

We stayed at the Oleander hotel, Being a bargain hunter I wasn’t going to wreck a cheap flight with an expensive hotel. It took a few weeks of looking and our timing was good as we hit the start of off-season pricing. We got a room touted in this hotel as $180/night for about $67/night.

The odd thing about this hotel was that everything was German … much of the signage and tour brochures. Many of the guests were German and a couple of the front desk people spoke German to guests.

Our first day in Mallorca was full of excitement even though traveler fatigue was setting in. Tomorrow we plan to see the sites of Palma.

There are many Caminos in Spain. Traditionally, people have walked the Camino for religious purposes but not so much anymore. I’ve read a report that said 10% and another that said 25% of all walking the Camino do it for religious reasons. It is believed the Santiago Cathedral houses the tomb of St. James, and people walk this path to pay homage to him.

St. James was an apostle who went to this north-western part of Spain to preach and convert people to Christianity. All caminos end in the city of ‘Santiago’ or San Tiago … San is Saint and Tiago translates into James.

St. James was martyred in about 44 ce in Jerusalem. Legend has it that his bones ended up in the crypt of the Santiago Cathedral. The dead apostle’s mojo has attracted pilgrims ever since.

In the modern era, people have all sorts of reasons for walking the Camino de Santiago. Many do it for adventure or exercise, for clarity of mind, for a sense of achievement, to meet people from all over the world or to enjoy and learn about the Spanish culture. In addition to religious reasons these are among the reasons for walking a Camino today.

The more pilgrims walk ‘off the beaten path’ Camino routes the better it is for the local community. It helps to distribute tourism income throughout the country. It also encourages people who live in less touristy areas to become entrepreneurs; open an albergue, a hostel, a restaurant, a laundry, etc. As a result, it gives people an opportunity to earn money in the place they live instead of moving to a bigger city in search of a job.

You get to know places that you would never think of going to or you didn’t even know existed … like Villementero (aka Animal Farm) or Reliegos with the meteor site and bar Elvis. We would never have discovered Morcilla had we not visited The Meseta.

Many people we met have walked Caminos multiple times — we know of one person who has walked Camino Frances nine times.

The Camino Frances, which is about 500 miles long, is the most popular because it has a good infrastructure and the most albergues. The Meseta, which we just did, is part of Camino Frances and stretches from Burgos to Leon.

Our next destination is on Camino Ingles which is a shorter and easier Camino.

We had a two day stay in northern Spain in the town of ACoruna which is near the start of Camino Ingles. ACoruna is located on the North Atlantic Ocean and is known for the Roman lighthouse called the Tower of Hercules. There are many beautiful beaches and seafood is plentiful.

It was a fun day of sampling seafood, shopping, walking around the harbor & beaches and enjoying the cultural vibe of ACoruna. It was a short but sweet visit.

If you followed the ‘Jane in Spain’ blog in 2019, you will know this story. We were two days from finishing the Camino Ingles. We were staying overnight in the town of Ordes and we were just out for a stroll. The sidewalks were torn up with a construction project. Theresa was on the edge of a sidewalk taking a photo and the sidewalk crumbled under her feet. She fell, hitting her shins on the concrete and tearing ligaments in her ankle.

Several locals came to see what happened and brought compassion and remedies such as sugar water. The police came and assessed the situation. They called an ambulance. We recruited an English speaker who was on his way to play soccer to translate for us. The three of us rode in the ambulance to a hospital that was two blocks away. They bandaged Theresa and put her on crutches. She had to take a taxi the last two days while I walked alone.

Now, Theresa is going to finish the two days on the Ingles and receive her Ingles Compostela. We arrived in Ordes late Sunday afternoon. She would start walking on Monday.

The next day, Theresa started her trek while I attempted to catch up on blogging. The problem is that not everyplace has a good WiFi connection and that can be frustrating.

Tomorrow we fly to the island of Mallorca. Our Ryan airline tickets cost $17 … but then they charged us $19 for a seat and I paid $37 to check my backpack. Final cost was $73 for a one-way ticket. Not a bad price.

Our first stop at the end of The Meseta is the city of Leon which has a population of 134,000. Leon’s finest treasure is its Gothic cathedral. We spent a couple days enjoying the city and our new found freedom from rural life on The Meseta.

The Catedral de Leon features 130 stained glass windows together with three rose windows which is only surpassed by the 176 windows of Chartres cathedral in France. However, the windows of Chartres cover a much smaller surface area. The windows of Leon reflect both scenes of nature and aspects of the supernatural. *Information from Fundacion Jacobea.

The word Lion in Spanish is Leon; in Spanish it’s a nickname for a fierce or brave warrior. This Lion is escaping from a hole in the sidewalk is very creative.

We love Spanish Paradors … we just can’t afford them. They are luxury hotels usually located in a converted historic building such as a monastery or castle or in a modern building with a view of a historic or monumental city. Staying in a Parador is an immersion experience. Visitors learn about history or culture, they can be immersed in a city or immersed in nature depending on the location of the Parador. There are 97 Paradors in Spain and they are all run by the Spanish Government.

This is what I found to be one of the most interesting sites in Leon. The Monastery of San Marcos existed until 1837 when it was seized and abolished by Juan Àlvarez Mendizàbal (Prime Minister under Queen Isabel II). Monastic life of the friars of St. James came to an end after 700 years. The monastery faced several auctions and constantly changing inhabitants and uses. In 1936 it became a concentration camp where Franco imprisoned his political prisoners. It is believed that 20,000 Spaniards passed through the cells and approximately 7,000 died.

The monestary now facilitates the museum of Leon and is also a 5-star Parador. *mobi.parador.es

The San Marcos Parador was featured in the movie “The Way”. The Martin Sheen character treats his Camino friends to a night at this Parador.

Tomorrow we head north to ACoruna and then on to Camino Ingles.