Jane in Spain

24 April 2025

Today was our day to explore the island of Gran Canaria. The ferry port was just a stone’s throw from where we were staying — in fact, we had been watching the ferries coming and going from our balcony throughout the week. Despite its proximity, reaching the terminal by car proved surprisingly tricky.

The view from the ferry was striking—a dense wall of condos and high-rise buildings stretched along the waterfront, with rugged mountains rising behind them. From the harbor, we had a sweeping panoramic view of the city, framed by sea and sky.

The Armas ferry was comfortable, and I especially enjoyed sitting at the front, where there was an excellent view of the sea and the approaching coastline.

One of the reasons we chose to visit Gran Canaria was the World Rally Championship, which was being held on the island for the first time. As the premier international competition in rally racing, the WRC showcases high-performance, modified production cars racing across challenging routes on a variety of surfaces — including gravel, asphalt, snow, and ice.

The rally cars are heavily modified versions of street-legal models — like the Toyota GR Yaris, Hyundai i20 N, and Ford Puma — engineered for speed, agility, and durability. Kyle was especially interested, since he drives a Subaru WRX, (World Rally eXperimental) a car with its own rally heritage.

The WRX is one of the sport’s most iconic cars, especially during the 1990s and early 2000s. And while I may drive an aging Toyota Sienna minivan, I still found the world of rally racing surprisingly compelling.

We had hoped to catch part of the rally itself, but in terms of ferry schedules, it worked out better for us to be there on the pre-event day—known as “recce and shakedown day.” It turned out to be an interesting part of the World Rally Championship experience.

Far from a day of downtime, it’s packed with final preparations, technical inspections, and strategic planning. It’s also when fans can get up close to the cars in the service park, where each team sets up its base and fine-tunes their vehicles for the stages ahead.

After soaking in all the pre-race excitement, it was time for us to hit the road ourselves. And naturally, Kyle was eager to take the wheel. We headed out to the Caves of Valeron.

The drive from Las Palmas de Gran Canaria to the Caves of Valerón is a scenic journey that offers a glimpse into the island’s diverse landscapes.

The Caves are a remarkable testament to the island’s pre-Hispanic heritage. Located near the town of Santa María de Guía in the northern part of the island, this archaeological site features over 350 man-made cavities carved into the volcanic rock of a steep cliff face.

These interconnected caves are believed to have served as a communal granary for the indigenous Canarian people, known as the Guanches, dating back approximately 800 years.

The caves are accessible via a staircase that offers panoramic views of the surrounding valley.

The site includes a small reconstructed aboriginal house, providing insight into the living conditions of the Guanches. Interpretive panels along the path offer historical context.

The strategic placement of the caves—high on a cliff and hidden from the sea—provided protection against potential invaders and the elements. Each chamber was likely sealed with wooden or stone doors to safeguard stored goods such as grains and other food.

With the clock ticking and the ferry schedule looming, we had to wrap up our day a bit earlier than planned. We made our way back to Las Palmas for a late lunch before heading to the port to catch our ferry.

We ended our visit to Gran Canaria with a serene sunset ferry ride, the golden light casting a warm glow over the water as we sailed back to Tenerife.

23 April 2025

This morning, we all lounged around a little longer than usual, awakening to clear blue skies and warm sunlight streaming through the windows. Quinn and Emily made a delightful breakfast of ensalada de fritos con queso fresco — layers of creamy cheese drizzled with honey and topped with fresh, seasonal fruit — accompanied by flaky croissants from a nearby bakery.

Today was open with nothing on the agenda. Theresa and I hopped aboard the tram, winding our way up to San Cristóbal de La Laguna for a leisurely day of sightseeing, sunshine and shopping.

Kyle went wandering. Theresa and I crossed paths with him later in the afternoon at a grocery store. He was shopping for dinner ingredients.

The energetic Quinn and Emily rented bicycles and set their sights on conquering the nearby hills.

Barely larger than a phone booth, our building’s elevator made squeezing in two people and two bikes quite the feat.

The hills surrounding San Cristóbal de La Laguna form the lower slopes of Tenerife’s rugged Anaga highlands. Rising from the city’s roughly 500m elevation up to peaks of 800–1,000m these roads thread through deep ravines, laurel forests and dramatic volcanic outcrops.

All told, the San Cristóbal hills make for a rewarding ride — beautiful scenery, historical towns, and enough challenge to satisfy seasoned cyclists.

The Mighty Quinn attacked those hills with such ferocity that he actually snapped something on his rental bike. The ascent tested every ounce of his strength — and the descent was no easier on his battered bike frame.

A seasoned rider, Quinn has completed countless century rides (100 miles), conquered the DAMn (Day Across Minnesota) 240-mile challenge, and pedaled the Minneapolis–Duluth route (170 miles) on more than one occasion.

If you’re a fellow cycling enthusiast looking for your next big test … or you just enjoy biking, Quinn welcomes you to join him on the “Bike to Duluth” ride on June 28th — a free event. This grass-roots self supported bike ride covers about 170 miles from Minneapolis proper to the lift-bridge in Duluth. For more information, to register or donate door prizes or items for swag bags, contact Quinn at biketoduluth.com

As dusk settled, Kyle whipped up a hearty home-cooked feast: tender Spanish pork chops bathed in a traditional sauce, smoky Padrón peppers, crisp-edged croquetas, and a vibrant ensalada mixta. It was the perfect way to close out the day.

Stay tuned — next, we’re off to the island of Gran Canaria, which will be hosting the 2025 FIA World Rally Championship!

22 April 2025

La Gomera is one of the smaller islands in the Canaries. It has rugged volcanic mountains, lush greenery, and deep ravines. The island has a mystical feel — it’s much quieter and less touristy than Tenerife or Gran Canaria. It is also where Christopher Columbus stopped in 1492 to stock up before sailing to America.

The day started with an hour long drive to the southern Tenerife port of Los Cristianos. From there, we took the Armas ferry to San Sebastián, the capital of La Gomera. We needed transportation on La Gomera so we ferried the car too.

As you step off the ferry, your eyes are immediately drawn to the dramatic hillside, where the buildings of San Sebastián cling to the steep slopes, stacked one above the other in a cascade of color.

Torre del Conde is a medieval stone tower located in the middle of a quiet park in San Sebastián, surrounded by palm trees. It was built around 1450 by one of the Spanish conquerors who took control of the Canary Islands.

The tower was originally built for defense, but it also symbolized Spanish authority over the local indigenous Guanche people during the early colonization. It’s not huge — around 50 feet high — but it’s very solid, with thick whitewashed stone walls and a simple, almost fortress-like design.

The Monument to the Sacred Heart of Jesus, also known as the Cristo de San Sebastián stands prominently on a hillside offering a commanding view over the town and its harbor.

Quinn, Emily, and Kyle took a more adventurous route today, tackling steep trails and exploring rugged terrain that ranged from moss-draped forests to dry, arid stretches.

Savoring a cold beer, we soaked in the more tranquil side of LaGomera, surrounded by the island’s rugged coastline, with its black-sand beaches, towering cliffs, and stunning views of the Atlantic. After more than three weeks on the move, a quiet afternoon at the beach was the perfect reset.

The ferry schedule cut our day a bit shorter than we would have liked, with boarding starting around 4:30.

A funny thing happened on our way back to Santa Cruz. We had planned to stop for dinner in the seaside village of Candelaria, but while driving on the freeway, we spotted a large fire just off the road. Thick black smoke billowed into the sky, and Quinn guessed they might be burning wooden pallets. Strangely, there didn’t seem to be anyone near the flames. As the scene faded in our rearview mirror, it was hard to make sense of what we’d just witnessed.

We kept going, and after exiting, we got a bit turned around and accidentally drove the wrong way down a one-way street. Strangely enough, that wrong turn led us straight to the seafood market we’d been trying to find.

As it turned out, we landed at a seaside treasure — an unforgettable seafood restaurant with sweeping views of the Atlantic.

The restaurant also functions as a seafood market, offering locally sourced catches prepared with authentic Canarian flair — standout dishes include grilled cuttlefish, Galician-style octopus, and crispy fried moray eel.

There were also a few tasty side dishes and warm, crusty bread. Before long, everyone was happily full on all the deliciousness. Our dining experience was enhanced by the restaurant’s informal setting — plastic chairs and simple tables — which contributed to its charm. It was a relaxed, no-frills atmosphere with stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean.

After dinner, we strolled along the Atlantic … Kyle had dropped us at the door but had to park several blocks away. The stroll afterward was every bit as satisfying as dinner.

Now about that little pallet fire … as we were leaving Candeleria, we noticed it was odd that southbound traffic was stopped and backed-up as far as we could see and there was no traffic going north which is where we were headed.

Apparently, the fire was quite serious, breaking out at a pallet warehouse and quickly escalating. The blaze was intense enough to shut down the freeway in both directions, and firefighters battled the flames throughout the night. We were incredibly lucky to have passed by just as the fire was beginning — before any emergency crews had arrived. Timing was everything; had we left the port just 20 or 30 minutes later, we could have been stuck in a massive traffic jam for hours.

We made it back to our apartment around 10:00 pm, ready to unwind and looking forward to an open, unplanned day tomorrow. There was so much from the day to absorb and reflect on.

So what does an “unplanned” day look like for this group? Stay tuned.

Our first stop was the Mercado de Nuestra Señora de África which offers a rich and authentic glimpse into the heart of Tenerife which is affectionately known as La Recova.

La Recova comes from the old Spanish word “recova,” which originally referred to a marketplace where poultry and farm products were sold.

When the market was officially opened in 1944, it was dedicated to Our Lady of Africa (Nuestra Señora de África), who is the patroness of Ceuta, a Spanish enclave on the African continent. Naming it after her symbolized a cultural and spiritual connection between the Canary Islands and Africa.

So, the “African Market” name is partly religious, partly geographic and very much tied to Santa Cruz’s history as a crossroads of cultures.

The boat sculpture in front of La Recova is a striking bronze artwork titled Tribute to the Chicharrero. This life-sized piece depicts two fishermen dragging a traditional fishing boat, symbolizing the hard work and resilience of the local people, affectionately known as chicharreros .

The sculpture serves as a powerful reminder of Santa Cruz’s maritime heritage and the vital role of fishing in the city’s history.

The market offers a colorful variety of seasonal fruits and vegetables from local farms, along with an abundant selection of fresh fish, seafood, and meats. You’ll also find artisanal cheeses, freshly baked breads and pastries, and traditional Canarian specialties, including mojo sauces, local wines and spices.

Small bars and eateries offering local dishes like papas arrugadas and fresh seafood preparations.

The tile portraits are a beautiful tribute to Spain’s rich regional diversity. Each ceramic panel portrays couples dressed in traditional costumes from different parts of the country, celebrating the vibrant traditions, customs and cultural heritage that define Spain’s national identity.

The Aguadora de Santa Cruz bronze sculpture (below left) portrays a barefoot woman carrying a water jug on her head, honoring the women who once transported water from wells to homes before the advent of modern plumbing.

Next stop is the historic town of San Cristóbal de La Laguna. There is a modern and efficient light rail system that connects Santa Cruz with San Cristóbal de La Laguna. This tram service offers a convenient and scenic way to travel between these two historic cities. It’s about a 40 minute ride and costs less than two dollars.

La Laguna has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999 and it stands as the only city in the Canary Islands to hold this distinction. Founded in the late 15th century, La Laguna was the first city established in the archipelago and served as the capital of Tenerife until 1723. Its well-preserved colonial architecture and unique urban layout offer a glimpse into the past and make it a must-visit destination.

The Cathedral of San Cristóbal de La Laguna is a significant religious and architectural landmark located in the heart of La Laguna. We opted for the audio tour and found it to be both informative and engaging.

The tour provided a comprehensive understanding of the cathedral’s artistic and spiritual significance.

The cathedral features several alcoves, each housing grand, intricately designed altars dedicated to various patron saints. These altars are adorned with detailed sculptures and paintings, each telling the unique stories and significance of the saints they honor.

La Laguna offers a great shopping experience, with a diverse selection of scarves, purses, shoes and local crafts that Theresa and I found to be especially captivating.

The final adventure of the day was chasing the sunset, which meant heading to the island’s west side, winding through steep peaks and valleys. The drive was nerve-wracking — narrow roads, sheer cliffs and endless twists and turns.

At the Paca House, we savored a variety of local specialties and beloved dishes. Everyone left completely satisfied.

As for the sunset… we settled at a beach in Parque Rural de Anaga. The clouds and wind weren’t on our side. We did catch a glimpse of it, though. The drive back in the dark felt less daunting since we couldn’t see the steep cliffs we’d been navigating.

It was a day packed with successful sightseeing. Tomorrow, we’re catching the ferry to the island of La Gomera.

Just off the coast of Africa but proudly Spanish, the Canary Islands are seven slices of sunshine, volcanoes, and beachy bliss — all with their own personality. Technically, the Canary Islands belong to Spain but they are closer to Morocco. Also, the name Canary actually comes from the Latin, meaning “Islands of the Dogs” not birds.

Kyle, Theresa, and I set off from Santiago, our early morning flight lifting off through the rain … not quite on schedule but close enough. The journey was smooth and uneventful. We landed at Tenerife South Airport, ready for a new adventure. Picking up our rental car was easy, and I was pleasantly surprised by how well-maintained and modern the roads were. It was about a 40-minute drive to Santa Cruz, and it took a little time to adjust to the local streets and traffic signs.

A bit of finagling later, we found our rhythm. Thankfully, our apartment came with a garage parking space — a real blessing. After a bit of a scavenger hunt to track down all the necessary keys, doors, elevators, and garage openers, we finally settled in. All was good.

We didn’t have much time to soak in our new surroundings — Quinn and Emily’s flight had just arrived, and we were soon back on the road, heading to the airport to pick them up.

Needless to say, everyone was pretty wiped out from a long day of travel. On the way back from the airport, we made a quick stop at a mercado, and Kyle whipped up an amazing meal while we all settled in and relaxed, soaking up the comfort of our apartment. Despite our exhaustion, the excitement of being there made it hard to finally call it a night.

In Spain, Easter is celebrated in a more relaxed and low-key way. The focus is on family gatherings, attending church services, and enjoying the outdoors. The atmosphere is festive yet peaceful, with many people heading to the beach or exploring the countryside. Similarly, our day was quiet and leisurely as we spent time walking around and getting to know Santa Cruz.

We strolled past the harbor and along the shoreline, where cruise ships were docked and ferry boats came and went. Santa Cruz is full of interesting public art.

I was intrigued by the El Muro sculpture — mostly because I had absolutely no idea what I was looking at. Apparently, the sculptor, Juan Bordes, is famous for his expressive depictions of the human form. It’s supposed to evoke a sense of balance and physical tension. Personally, I’m still not entirely sure what was going on, but hey — it looked impressive.

Charcos de Valleseco is a newly developed coastal area designed to provide residents and visitors with a modern seaside experience. The project transformed a previously underutilized stretch of coastline into a recreational space featuring natural-style pools, floating platforms, sunbathing areas, and accessible facilities.

This is a city where nature and urban life bloom side by side. From lush botanical gardens to vibrant public parks, the city showcases a rich tapestry of flowers that reflect its subtropical climate and cultural heritage.

It was a quiet Easter, yet very pleasant. We had a wonderful dinner at a nearby restaurant and enjoyed a leisurely walk back to our apartment, soaking in the calm evening.

Santiago’s Grand Camino Finale

The ending point of our Camino Portugués is the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, Spain. This magnificent cathedral is the traditional final destination for all routes of the Camino de Santiago, as it is believed to be the burial site of Saint James the Greater, one of Jesus’s apostles.

Santiago is a beautiful, historic city full of charming narrow streets, excellent Galician food and other pilgrims celebrating the end of their journey.

Our Camino journey may end here in Santiago, but the memories will stay with us forever. We’re lingering on a few more days to experience the beauty and tradition of Holy Week, with its unforgettable Spanish processions.

Holy Week in Spain is one of the country’s most storied and visually striking religious-cultural traditions.

First, we’re celebrating at one of our favorite Santiago spots—Bar Latita. The tapas here are irresistible, and the atmosphere is just right for toasting the end of our journey.

Next, we make our way to the Cathedral—joining the quiet line into the crypt to see the resting place of St. James, then climbing the stairs behind the altar to pay our respects to San Tiago (St. James) himself.

Since the processions don’t begin until evening, we have the afternoon free to wander around Santiago. Theresa and I have visited several times before, so we each have our own favorite spots to return to. There’s a chance of rain, though—and if it comes, the procession may be canceled.

As night falls, you’ll often hear guitar music and heartfelt singing echoing off the stone walls of the plaza. It’s the Argentine troubadours, beloved, informal musicians performing around the grand square in front of the Cathedral. These musicians are typically traveling performers from Argentina (and occasionally other Latin American countries), often pilgrims themselves, who bring a unique spirit to the Camino’s endpoint.

Many of these musicians walk the Camino themselves and perform as a way to connect, reflect, and give back. Their presence is a reminder that the Camino is as much about community and shared experience as it is about the path itself.

It’s the perfect soundtrack for a Santiago evening—nostalgic, soulful, and filled with the spirit of the journey

It had been a long day, with rain coming and going. Theresa and Helen had already returned to the hotel, while Kyle and I lingered near the Cathedral, listening to the troubadours as we slowly made our way back. We assumed the procession had been canceled due to the weather— but then, to our surprise, we caught a glimpse of one of the floats emerging through the misty evening.

We hurried up the steps to the Cathedral as the procession approached the great doors. In a moment of quiet drama, everything seemed to pause. Then, slowly, the massive door creaked open, and the procession entered. We stood in awe, moved by the solemnity and the haunting beauty of the scene.

The conical hoods and robes you see are called capirotes (pointed hoods) and are worn by Nazarenos (penitents) as a sign of humble anonymity and spiritual “lifting” toward heaven. Though they resemble KKK garb at first glance, they have an entirely different origin and meaning: their attire is about centuries-old acts of penance and faith — nothing to do with the Klan.

The entire procession enters the Cathedral, the penitents skillfully guiding the heavy float through tight corners with remarkable precision. Once inside, they form solemn lines, joined by observers and the faithful who quietly follow behind. A ritual of prayer begins, punctuated by moments of profound silence. It’s now close to midnight, and we’ve reunited with Theresa and Helen, who came after hearing the commotion outside.

Just as dramatically as it had arrived, the procession made its way out of the Cathedral, continuing on to its next destination. The experience was powerful — and for first time viewers, almost overwhelming in its intensity. We followed for a while, caught up in the moment. A long day was gently unfolding into a long, unforgettable night.

The End of the World— Finnistere

Many pilgrims stay a few extra days to rest, reflect, or explore nearby areas like Finisterre or Muxía — places traditionally considered “the end of the world.”

It rained most of the next day. We took a two-hour bus ride to Finisterre (or Fisterra in Galician) which is often called “the end of the world” because in ancient times, it was thought to be the westernmost point of Europe — the farthest reach of the known world before the discovery of the Americas.

The dramatic cliffs, roaring ocean, and open horizon offer a powerful space for closure, solitude, and the sense of a journey fully completed.

While Helen and Kyle set off on a long hike, Theresa and I chose a more relaxed route — returning to the lighthouse hotel for a drink, a ritual of ours. On many of our past Caminos, we’ve watched the sun set over the sea from this very spot. But this time, the rain had its own agenda, and we were beginning to feel its weight.

Before boarding the bus back to Santiago, we had one last ritual to honor — a seafood feast at one of our favorite Finisterre restaurants, a celebration of the sea and the journey behind us.

After a long, rainy day and several hours on the bus, we returned to Santiago — where the rain was still falling. We assumed the 11:00 pm procession would be called off. Theresa and Helen turned in for the night, but Kyle and I decided to venture out and see a bit of Santiago’s late-night scene.

We ended up at a nearby pub called O’Flanagan’s — too tempting to pass up. Over drinks, we chatted and unwound, and by midnight we were ready to call it a night. But just as we were about to leave, the pounding of drums echoed through the street — the procession was passing right outside. We quickly paid the bill and rushed outside.

Once again, it was a haunting, midnight scene, the figures moving solemnly through darkness and light rain. We watched in silence as the procession passed, then, unable to resist, hurried ahead to catch a second glimpse as it made its way through the city.

A crowd of followers, umbrellas in hand — ours included — trailed behind the procession as it wound its way through narrow streets, between ancient stone buildings and around shadowy corners.

Everything came to a halt in front of an eerie old church, its facade draped in moss and speckled with barnacle-like flaws. Even the birds circling overhead added to the uncanny atmosphere. The drama was thick in the air, and we waited, intrigued, to see what would unfold next.

There were ritual gestures, murmured prayers, and then the floats and penitents slowly moved into the shadowy old church. We followed along with the rest of the crowd, but just as the last of the procession disappeared inside and we reached the doorway, a solemn group of four penitents stepped forward and blocked the entrance. That seemed to be our cue — it was time to head back through the quiet streets and make our way to the hotel.

Good Friday: Our Last Day in Santiago

Once again, we woke to the sound of rain. We allowed ourselves a slow start, sleeping in a bit and easing into the day. It was Good Friday, and the streets were noticeably more crowded than usual. We had to wait a while for our first cup of café Americano and a bite to eat.

After regrouping, Kyle and Helen set off on one of their fast-paced explorations, while Theresa and I opted for a more relaxed wander.

The day slipped by quickly, and we hoped to close out our time in Santiago with a dinner at a pulpería and, if the weather allowed, one last procession.

Theresa couldn’t keep her eyes open and called it a night. Helen, Kyle, and I headed back to our favorite Irish pub, where we were treated to some lively traditional music. Galicia, with its Celtic roots, has a natural affinity for all things Irish.

We weren’t sure if tonight’s procession would happen, given the weather, but we were thoroughly enjoying ourselves listening to the Irish music at O’Flanagan’s.

Then, like a bolt of lightning out of the blue, the sound of drums cracked through the night. We sprang into action and rushed into the streets — where we were met by a powerful wave of sound. A thunderous group of drummers was marching past, pounding their rhythms with fierce intensity. We watched in awe.

The thunder of the drums was so intense it could’ve woken the dead — and it did. Even Theresa, fast asleep on the third floor with earplugs in, was roused by the pounding rhythms. Like a scene from the resurrection, she emerged and made her way down to street level (in her PJs) to witness the procession which was inches away from her.

Once again, we found ourselves following the procession through the winding streets and toward another church. The experience was deeply moving — powerful, atmospheric, and unforgettable.

After soaking in the procession, we drifted to a nearby bar for a nightcap and to bid Helen farewell. Her train to Madrid was departing in the early hours, and by Sunday, she would be heading back to the United States. Meanwhile, Kyle, Theresa, and I were preparing for our next adventure — boarding a flight to Tenerife.

This ends our three-week Camino adventure but stay tuned … we’re heading to the Canary Islands where we will be joined by two more visitors.

Buen Camino!

Padrón peppers (pementos de Padrón) are a beloved Galician tapa with a fun twist—most are mild, but now and then, you’ll get one with a surprise kick of heat. They were brought to Galicia from the Americas by Franciscan monks in the 16th century. Today, they’re grown locally and hold Protected Designation of Origin status.

In the heart of Padrón stands the Monumento á Pementeira—a bronze sculpture honoring the local women who have cultivated and sold the region’s famed peppers for generations.

It serves as a focal point during the annual Festa do Pemento de Herbón. During this festival, a procession of decorated tractors travels from Herbón to Padrón, culminating in a floral offering at the statue.

This event celebrates the pepper’s heritage and the local women who recognized the potential of this crop, leading to the establishment of a thriving pepper industry that continues to this day.

I was so excited to be in Padrón and finally try Padrón peppers at the source—the very place they come from. Sadly, we were told they weren’t available. Whether it was the off-season or they’d already sold out, the legendary peppers were nowhere to be found. A true culinary cliffhanger!

The Sunday Market in Padrón, is a vibrant and historic event that takes place every Sunday morning in the town center. It’s recognized as one of the largest and most popular markets in Galicia, attracting thousands of visitors each week.

A highlight of the market is the “pulpo á feira” (Galician-style octopus), prepared on-site and served alongside barbecued meats, local wines, and vermouth.

Beyond the Sunday market, we plunged into Holy Week’s open‑air fair—an explosion of color and energy that features bumper cars, a Ferris wheel and other children’s rides as well as ice cream, cotton candy and other food stalls.

To sweeten the journey, Theresa and I were joined by my son Kyle—fresh off a train from Lisbon via Porto —and her daughter Helen—who touched down in Madrid—for the next leg.

Nestled at the Pontevedra end of the old Santiago Bridge is a little Chapel of la Virgen del Carmen—a humble granite‑and‑stucco shrine that has watched over the river for centuries.

Legend has it that during a fierce flood, a local fisherman, fearing he’d drown when his boat couldn’t make shore, prayed to Our Lady of Mount Carmel. Miraculously, he washed up on the riverbank exactly where he’d vowed to build a chapel—and so this tiny sanctuary was born. Another tale says a driftwood boat carrying only the Virgin’s image floated by itself to the same spot, inspiring a grateful villager to raise this shrine in her honor .

Though simple in design — the chapel occupies a key point on the Camino Portugués. Medieval pilgrims paid a token toll documented on a nearby stone, and to this day many pause here to light a candle or leave a flower before continuing on toward Santiago .

Theresa and I hit the cobblestones, intent on uncovering every hidden gem. Many treasures were found!

Our next stop is Casa do Cruceiro, a charming rural guesthouse nestled in Raíces less than six miles from Santiago. The rustic charm and serene vibe made for a memorable stay in Raíces.

Dinner was awesome … creamy cheeses, plump prawns, my beloved Padrón peppers, golden potatoes, and a mouthwatering flank steak — total culinary nirvana.

Fueled by a hearty meal and a solid night’s sleep, we were primed for our entrance into Santiago. Stay tuned!

We started the day in Vigo, making our way through several quaint villages enroute to Santiago.

VIGO: We were looking for a breakfast spot and stumbled into what can only be described as an animal farm-themed fever dream call La Cuca. I’m not sure why any restaurateur would sacrifice so much seating to larger-than-life farm animals, but the sheer commitment to the theme was both baffling and hilarious. The over-the-top decor felt more like a whimsical art installation than a brunch café — an unforgettable and thoroughly amusing detour from the usual breakfast routine.

One of the city’s most iconic and surreal pieces of public art is the El Sireno. It’s located in the heart of the city at Puerta del Sol, one of Vigo’s central plazas.

It’s a striking modernist figure of a humanoid form with the upper body of a man and the lower body of a fish or bird, suspended in midair between two tall pillars.

The sculpture is often interpreted as a symbol of Vigo’s identity — tied deeply to the sea, fishing, transformation and modernity. The hybrid figure represents the connection between human life and the ocean, a key part of Vigo’s history and economy.

The Vigo Vertical initiative has integrated outdoor escalators, elevators, and moving walkways to enhance urban mobility and accessibility.

The Gran Via area boasts eight outdoor moving walkways, installed between 2020-2022, facilitating pedestrian movement along this major thoroughfare. These walkways are sheltered by colorful, translucent canopies and are complemented by greenery and seating area, enhancing both functionality and aesthetic appeal.

REDONDELE, known as the “Village of Viaducts,” features two prominent 19th century railway bridges that are emblematic of its landscape.

Viaducto de Madrid is the older of the two structures and features a combination of wrought iron latticework and traditional stone masonry pillars — a cutting-edge design for its time. It was inaugurated in 1876 and the Madrid in 1884.

In the heart of Redondela lies historic Os Edison Cemetery, a serene and architecturally significant site nestled within a residential area. Established in 1833 on the grounds of former hospital for the poor and pilgrims, the cemetery was developed by the Redondela City Council to serve the local community.

Os Eidos is renowned for its elegant stone mausoleums, intricate ironwork, and orderly rows of niches, reflecting 19th-century funerary art and Galician cultural heritage. Its tranquil ambiance and historical significance have earned it recognition.

PONTEVEDRA is a historic city and capital of the province of the same name. It’s known for its beautifully preserved old town, pedestrian-friendly streets, and vibrant cultural life.

The Ponte do Burgo is a historic stone arch pedestrian bridge located near the city’s fish market. It connects the historic center with the O Burgo neighborhood. It’s a pedestrian bridge and a significant landmark in Pontevedra.

The Fish Market (Mercado de Abastos) is a vibrant and historic market that has been a cornerstone of the city’s culinary and cultural life since 1948. Situated near the historic center and overlooking the Lérez River, the market is housed in a traditional Galician granite building featuring arches and arcades.

The period leading up to Palm Sunday is marked by the traditional sale of intricately woven palm fronds near the fish market. Artisans craft these palms into various shapes, such as crosses and other decorative forms, reflecting a blend of religious symbolism and local craftsmanship.

These woven palms are an integral part of the Palm Sunday celebrations, where they are carried in processions and blessed during church services.

The fish market area becomes especially lively during this time, with vendors displaying their handcrafted palms alongside the usual array of fresh seafood and produce. This convergence of daily commerce and festive preparation offers visitors a unique glimpse into the local customs and communal spirit of Pontevedra during the Easter season.

A funny thing happened on the way to Caldas de Reis — our bus broke down. Without much Spanish, we had to play detective to figure out what was going on.

Some passengers called taxis or friends, while most of us just hung tight, waiting for the rescue bus. Eventually, it rolled in, and just like that, things were back on track.

CALDAS DE REIS renowned for its thermal springs, historical significance, and role as a key stop on the Portuguese Way of the Camino de Santiago. Many travelers take advantage of the town’s thermal waters to rest and rejuvenate before continuing their pilgrimage.

The town’s name translates to “Hot Waters of the Kings,” reflecting its long-standing reputation for therapeutic hot springs. Mineral-rich waters emerge at temperatures between 107°C and 118°C. These waters are high in elements like sulphur, lithium, and fluoride, believed to offer various health benefits.

The Roman Bridge is a historic stone bridge that spans the Bermaña River in the heart of this Galician town. Believed to have Roman origins, the bridge has undergone various reconstructions over the centuries, preserving its ancient character.

Next stop: Padrón — home of one of my favorite tapas, the irresistible Padrón peppers. To top it off, two visitors from home are joining us on the journey. Stay tuned!

Tucked along Galicia’s dramatic Atlantic coast, Oia, Baiona and Vigo each offer their own rhythm and charm.

OIA: Today, we’re heading to the coastal town of Oia. The rugged coastline offers stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean with waves crashing against the cliffs.

Our path wound past a variety of farm animals, peacefully grazing under the warm sun. Their tranquil pastures stretched toward the sea, overlooking a stunning coastline that made the walk feel serene and restorative.

Everywhere we turn, the landscape offers quiet icons of this place: wild calla lilies blooming freely along the paths, and the lone fisherman silhouetted against the sea. Both feel as natural and enduring as the sunshine and the rolling hillsides themselves.

Martina from the Czech Republic joined us to watch the sunset — a shared awe as the sky melted into gold and flame.

BAIONA: This beautiful coastal town is known for its charming old town, maritime history and stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean.

When we arrived in Baiona, reaching our hostel proved tricky — the Vig Bay Half Marathon was in full swing, and the finish line happened to be right outside our hostel. Streets were buzzing with energy, cordoned off and crowded with cheering spectators.

We found a table at a sidewalk cafe and settled in to watch as weary but determined runners crossed the finish line. The race began in Vigo and winds its way along the coast, ending here in Baiona.

Baiona holds a unique place in history as the first European port to receive news of the discovery of the New World. In 1493, the Pinta — one of Columbus’s ships — returned to Baiona with that groundbreaking news. A replica of the Pinta is in the harbor, and is part of the Museo da Carabela Pinta. Unfortunately, it was closed on Mondays which happened to be the day we visited.

The town is dominated by the Fortaleza de Monterrey, a 12th-century fortress that now houses a luxurious Parador hotel. You can walk the stone ramparts for stunning panoramic views of the sea and Cíes Islands. Even if you’re not staying there, the grounds are open to visitors and make for a great coastal stroll.

Perched atop Mount Sansón, is a tall stone statue of the Virgin Mary. It is one of Baiona’s most iconic landmarks. The statue features white marble hands and face. Visitors can ascend a spiral staircase inside the monument to reach a boat held in the Virgin’s right hand, which serves as a unique viewpoint offering panoramic vistas of Baiona and the Atlantic Ocean.

VIGO has long been defined by the sea. It’s home to one of Europe’s busiest fishing ports, and its shipyards and seafood industry shape much of the city’s identity. There are harborside markets, fresh-caught seafood and a salty breeze almost everywhere you go.

Vigo strikes a compelling balance between past and present. Its modern side boasts bustling shopping districts and vibrant cultural centers, while just steps away, the old town unfolds in a maze of narrow lanes, weathered stone buildings, and quiet, hidden squares. The dynamic contrast between its roots as a humble fishing village and its pulse as a thriving urban hub is what gives the city its distinct and lively character.

We stumbled upon a group of bagpipe players and drummers rehearsing in the street — a lively, unexpected soundtrack to our walk. What made it especially striking was how diverse the group was; multi-generational and evenly split between men and women, all united by the shared rhythm of their music.

With the sun dipping low, we wrapped up the day with a drink and a tapa — just the right kind of ending. Stay tuned — something tells me Vigo still has more surprises in store.

This was our final day in Portugal before crossing the Minho River into Spain. The morning began under a blanket of clouds and rain, setting a moody farewell tone. Before leaving, we had one last craving to satisfy—a plate of fresh prawns, a delicious send-off from the Portuguese coast. Caminha, our departure point, offered the perfect setting for this parting meal.

As the sky darkened and the rain began to fall, we made our way to the ferry terminal. There was a sudden sense of urgency—we were told to hurry or risk missing the boat.

To our surprise, it wasn’t a ferry at all, but more of a rugged water taxi. We clambered aboard, stepping up onto a couple of crates to get inside the boat where the captain promptly handed us life jackets. My confidence started to waver. The small boat, barely big enough for six passengers, pushed off into the river under gray skies, rain pattering down and the wind picking up. It was a short, uneasy crossing.

Once we reached the opposite shore, the captain helped each of us off the boat and onto the dock, one careful step at a time.

Now what? We’d made it across the river, but our arrival in Spain was anything but grand. We were met not by charm or bustle, but by a ghostly, crumbling village—quiet, weathered, and seemingly forgotten.

Not much to see here — just endless steep hills! We officially started walking the Camino trail. The weather greeted us with damp, humid air and a steady drizzle. About three miles to go until our next stop.

Stay tuned for another adventure as we work our way toward Santiago.

We kicked off our Camino along Portugal’s coast, just north of Porto. It took miles of pavement, warehouses, and city sprawl before we finally broke free — trading concrete for coastline.

We designed this Camino to be as leisurely as the cool trade winds blowing off the Atlantic. With too many miles and too little time, we embraced a hybrid strategy: walking when we wanted to, cabbing when we needed to.

Once we hit the real Atlantic, it was magic: long stretches of sand, crashing waves, sea spray in the air, and the occasional hopeful fisherman casting into the surf.

We passed through a string of fishing villages — each with gifts of its own flavor, from quiet charm to faded bustle — on our slow, salty way toward Spain.

Provo de Varzim was our first overnight stop. This charming coastal city is about 15 miles north of Porto. It has a rich blend of history, beach culture, and local tradition. Fishing is central to its identity and for centuries it was one of Portugals most important fishing ports.

Esposende: It’s not flashy — just cozy cafés, local bakeries and friendly faces. It is nestled between the Atlantic Ocean and the Cávado River. It’s a paradise for nature lovers with its wild beaches, dunes and estuaries filled with birdlife.

Viano do Castillo was our next stop. This picturesque coastal city is located at the mouth of the Lima River. Known for its rich maritime history, stunning architecture, and beautiful beaches, it offers a blend of cultural heritage and natural beauty.

Viana do Castelo greeted us with a dramatic skyline — a cathedral perched high above the city like a sentinel. What we didn’t expect was a lodging mystery worthy of a scavenger hunt.

Unbeknownst to us, Booking.com had rerouted our stay due to a water issue at the original spot. Text messages started trickling in, sending us off to decode directions and hunt down a lockbox in an underground garage. Tired and confused but determined, we recruited a friendly waiter to help crack the case.

Our journey ended five stories up — no elevator — with a surprisingly lovely little apartment, complete with room to breathe and a private terrace under the open sky. The property manager was confused too. His information from Bookings.com was as minimal as ours and he assumed we had mistakenly double-booked … as if we’d choose to hike up and down five flights of stairs with backpacks. It all worked out and the bottom line … misadventure turned into an upgrade.

Today’s challenge: reach the hilltop church without climbing the hill. It turned into yet another treasure hunt — this time for the elusive funicular, cleverly camouflaged in the hillside brush.

Our digital map, ever the trickster, insisted we head to the top station instead of the bottom. Frustration brewed. But then, crossing a bridge, we spotted the tracks below — proof it actually existed.

A few wrong turns later, we finally cracked the code. Mission funicular: accomplished.

A funicular is a cable car for hills. It’s a rail-based system designed to carry passengers up and down steep slopes using two counter balanced cars connected by a cable — one goes up while the other comes down.

When we finally reached the church — mistakenly expecting a cathedral — we were surprised by how small the interior felt. Back home, our cathedral has a similar grand exterior and seats around 3,000. Ironically, the towering Santuário de Santa Luzia, with all its architectural drama, seemed like it might struggle to seat even a few hundred. A case of monumental on the outside, modest on the inside.

There was nothing modest about the decor, however. The interior is adorned with intricate frescoes and sculptures, highlighting the craftsmanship of the era. Its most striking features are the massive rose windows, considered the largest on the Iberian Peninsula.

On the exterior of the Santuário, we discover an elevator that cost a euro — not sure where it led, we hopped in. It led us to the interior dome of the structure. We found a narrow stone passage. Theresa started up the narrow stone stairwell with her backpack on but quickly realized this was not her kind of adventure. She bailed, wisely.

This blind passage was managed by a red-green traffic light — because yes, it was that tight. Brave but not reckless, I waited for the green and followed two fellow adventurers into the gopher-hole-sized entry, ready to take on the mystery climb that lay ahead.

The blind passage opened to a small but cavernous landing with yet another spiral staircase — this time a metal staircase twisting higher still. At the top, we emerged like gophers from a hole — right into the dome, rewarded with frighteningly high, jaw-dropping, panoramic view of the world below.

Behind the Sanctuário is a serene little park with a notable statue of Saint Lucy, the patron saint of sight. The statue stands as a tribute to her significance and offers visitors a place for reflection.

Adjacent to the Sanctuário are the ruins of the Citânia de Santa Luzia, an ancient pre-Roman hillfort settlement dating back to the Iron Age, offering additional historical intrigue to the site.

One more fascinating discovery was made from our global view on top of Monte de Santa Luzia — we could see the WindFloat Atlantic project — a pioneering floating offshore wind farm situated approximately 12 miles off the coast.

WindFloat Atlantic is the world’s first semi-submersible floating offshore wind farm, utilizing cutting-edge technology that allows wind turbines to be installed in deep waters previously inaccessible for such projects. Per WindFloat Atlantic, it supplies electricity to approximately 25,000 Portuguese households annually and helps avoid the emission of 33,000 tons of CO2 each year.

Vila Praia de Âncora is a small coastal town with a beautiful, laid-back beach. It’s where the Âncora River meets the Atlantic Ocean, creating a picturesque setting that blends golden sands, dunes and rugged coastline with a peaceful, small-town vibe.

Our journey through Portugal is winding down, but there’s still one last adventure ahead before we enter Spain. Stay tuned for a memorable “ferry crossing” over the Rio Minho — a scene not unlike Washington crossing the Delaware, but with a Portuguese twist.

Ciao ciao from beautiful Âncora!

Welcome to Porto! Today, we explored the stunning Douro Valley, renowned wine region about 70 miles inland from Porto. Our experience with Oporto Sensations exceeded expectations, thanks to our fantastic guide, Bruno. Traveling in a small group of six, we rode in a comfortable van — far better suited for the valley’s narrow, winding roads than a large coach bus. This allowed us to navigate the hills with ease and fully appreciate the breathtaking scenery.

The Douro Valley, in northern Portugal, is one of the world’s oldest and most beautiful wine regions. Carved by the Douro River, the valley is famous for its terraced vineyards, which produce Port wine as well as excellent red, white and green table wines.

The UNESCO World Heritage site is known for its dramatic landscapes — steep hills covered in vines, charming wine estates, and winding roads with stunning river views. The region has a deep winemaking tradition that dates back over 2,000 years, with small family-run wineries coexisting alongside major producers.

Bruno is incredibly knowledgeable about winemaking, the region, and Portugal. As a lifelong resident of Porto, he speaks with genuine passion and deep insight about this area, making every experience truly enriching.

The boats that traditionally transported barrels of wine along the Douro River are called rabelos. While touring on a rabelos, Bruno served a green wine. Despite its name, it is not green in color but refers to its freshness and youth, as it is meant to be consumed soon after production.

With the construction of dams and railways in the 20th century, rabelos were no longer needed for wine transport. Today, they have been repurposed for tourism, offering scenic river cruises in Porto and the Douro Valley.

We departed from the picturesque town of Pinhão, enjoying a serene journey through the heart of the Douro Valley. The one-hour cruise provides views of terraced vineyards, historic quintas (wine estates), and the lush hillsides that define this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Croft is one of the oldest and most prestigious Port wine houses, with a history dating back to 1588. It’s especially known for its Vintage Ports, Tawnies and its innovation in producing rosé Port. We toured the Croft estate called the Quinta da Roêda.

Quinta da Roêda is considered the jewel of Croft’s vineyard holdings. The estate features classic terraced vineyards overlooking the Douro River and is a prime location for growing the grapes that go into Croft’s finest Ports. On our vineyard tour, we learned about traditional winemaking methods (including grape treading in stone lagares), and we enjoyed tastings in a lovely setting with panoramic views.

After touring Croft, we enjoyed a leisurely meal at a charming hilltop restaurant nestled high above the valley. We had perfectly prepared sea bream, accompanied by stunning, panoramic views that took our breath away. Over lunch, we sampled both red and white wines, finishing with a rich brandy cake for dessert — a sweet ending to a truly memorable experience.

Next stop was at Quinta do Val Moreira, a scenic estate in the Douro Valley, near the confluence of the Douro and Tedo Rivers. This estate is part of the Cima Corgo subregion, which is known for producing some of the Douro’s finest wines.

Quinta do Val Moreira itself is modern yet rooted in tradition, with sweeping views of the Douro’s terraced vineyards. It’s open for visits and tastings, and is a lesser-known gem for travelers looking to explore beyond the bigger Port houses.

Tawny Port is a style of Port wine that’s aged in small oak barrels, allowing gradual oxidation and evaporation over time. This process gives the wine its signature amber-tawny color, silky texture, and complex flavors.

Among the many tips shared by our guide Bruno was a recommendation to try a Porto specialty called the Francesinha which means “little Frenchie”. It is a decadent sandwich made with layers of cured meats — typically ham, smoked sausage, steak or roast beef — all stacked between slices of bread.

The whole thing is smothered in melted cheese and drenched in a rich, spicy tomato-and-beer sauce. It’s often topped with a fried egg and served with a generous side of French fries, perfect for soaking up the extra sauce.

And that wraps up our day in Porto … wine-soaked, well-fed and wonderfully scenic. Tomorrow we lace up our boots and begin the Coastal Portuguese Camino. Bom camino and good night!

Lisbon wakes up slowly —- soft light, quiet streets, the calm before the storm. Then, like clockwork, the delivery trucks roll in, filling the pedestrian-only lanes with the hum of engines and the clatter of crates. By 8:00 am sharp, the police sweep through, shutting it all down to traffic with impressive efficiency. Order restored.

Before heading out, we made a stop at the Earthquake Museum — an award-winning deep dive into the city’s seismic past. A shake-up worth experiencing.

Visitors embark through ten immersive rooms, each designed to transport them back to 1755. The experience includes walking through the streets of Lisbon as they appeared before the earthquake, witnessing the disaster’s unfolding and understanding its significant influence on the city’s architecture, culture and society.

Entering Room 6, we find ourselves seated in the front pew of a church. The earthquake took place on November 1, which in the Catholic world is All Saints Day and many people were at Mass. The life-size video image portrays a mass being said complete with the smell of incense filling the air. Small tremors begin, then suddenly, the earthquake erupts — pews shake, the church crumbles, and fire spreads. A guide rushes in, urging visitors to escape, heightening the realism.

The next room depicts the aftermath on Lisbon’s streets, showing the devastation. However, the experience highlights that many who fled to the open area of the shoreline perished in the resulting tsunami.

The faithful gathered in the church, seeking divine favor, only to be met with unimaginable devastation — their city in ruins, countless lives lost. In the wake of the disaster, faith was shaken, questions arose, and a new era of reason and inquiry began — marking the dawn of Enlightenment.

The museum ends with a stark message: another earthquake will happen, so be prepared. Ironically, as we immersed ourselves in this simulated disaster, a real earthquake was unfolding in Myanmar and Bangkok, with updates trickling in through the news, blurring the line between history and present reality.

Well it’s time for us to escape Lisbon and head north to Porto. A swift Uber to Santa Apolónia, a seamless hop onto the train, and a few hours of rolling past Portugal’s scenic countryside brought us to Campanhã Station, ready for the next adventure.

Join us tomorrow as we trade city streets for vineyard-covered hills in the breathtaking Douro Valley — Portugal’s famed wine region, where terraced landscapes meet the winding Douro River and Port flows as smoothly as the scenery.

Lisbon Lounge was starting to feel like home! Our cozy private room, bathed in blue, featured a watchful pachyderm. With Solomon the elephant standing guard like a celestial sentinel, sleep came easy.

We must be adjusting to the time change — slept hard and woke up ready to explore the Shrine of Fátima. I grew up hearing about apparition shrines, unbelievable tales, miracles and the pilgrims who traveled to visit these sites. Being the curious person I am, I had to see what it was all about. But first, it was time for breakfast.

It takes about an hour on the Flix bus to reach Fátima from Lisbon. A very comfortable ride through the countryside on a blue sky sunny day.

The bus terminal at Fátima had several small gift shops with an array of shiny gemstone rosaries and Mary statues — some were even glow-in-the dark phosphorescent green. Lots of trinkets and souvenirs. It was a short walk from the bus terminal to the shrine.

This renowned pilgrimage site typically welcomes millions of visitors annually. However, today the expansive esplanade, capable of accommodating up to 100,000 people, felt remarkably empty. Spanning about 150,000 square meters — equivalent to about 21 football fields — the vastness was particularly striking in the absence of crowds.

The story of Our Lady of Fátima is one of the most famous Marian apparitions in Catholic history. To make a long story short, it took place in 2017 between May and October. The Virgin Mary is said to have appeared to three shepherd children while they were tending sheep. She asked them to return on the 13th day of the month for six months. Over that time period, she shared several messages with the children. The grand finale took place on October 13 when a massive crowd of 70,000 people gathered to witness a promised miracle. After heavy rain, the sun appeared as a spinning disk, changing colors and seeming to zigzag toward the earth before returning to normal. Many witnesses, including journalists and skeptics, reported the event which is now called the Miracle of the Sun.

Half way across the expansive esplanade, we came across an outdoor chapel where Mass was in progress. The air was thick with the scent of melting wax, leading us to a sizable glass walled room brimming with beeswax candles of all lengths and sizes.

The candle burning station holds profound spiritual significance for pilgrims, symbolizing their prayers, sacrifices, and expressions of gratitude. Candles are lit often representing specific intentions or thanksgiving, and placed into the large burning pit as a tangible act of devotion.

On the outskirts of the Shrine, there were countless hotels, restaurants and shops selling the same rosaries, statues and also wax body parts — hands, feet, kidneys, gallbladders, intestines and a whole lot more.

Apparently, the wax body parts are known as promessas de cera or “wax promises” which devotees burn as offerings related to specific healings or blessings.

After hours of walking and observing the Shrine at Fátima, we were ready to switch back to exploring Lisbon. Our dinner plans took us to the Bica district, one of Lisbon’s most picturesque and historically rich neighborhoods.

In addition to owning the Lisbon Lounge, our friend Paul Bell owns a Peruvian restaurant called, Choclo Ceviche which is situated along one of the city’s most iconic and steep streets. The Ascensor da Bica, is a charming funicular railway that transports passengers up and down the steep incline. It’s a delightful experience for visitors.

We departed the restaurant content and satisfied, having enjoyed both our meal and the passing trams that added to the evening’s charm. The iconic tram stopped running at 9:00 pm so it was time to hike the hill.

At the top of the hill, we caught an Uber and headed back to the Lisbon Lounge. As we concluded our evening, we encountered a solemn religious procession moving through the streets — a local observance of the Stations of the Cross, a traditional Catholic devotion during Lent. Participants moved reverently, pausing for prayers and hymns at various stations depicting events from Christ’s Passion.

Experiencing such a procession firsthand offered a profound insight into the city’s rich spiritual traditions. With Holy Week approaching, one can anticipate even more elaborate and deeply moving ceremonies throughout Lisbon and beyond in the Hispanic countries.

We were soaring with enthusiasm as our Delta flight cruised over Bloomington and onto Chicago for our connection to Amsterdam. Uneventful flights. When we landed in Amsterdam, it was 2:00 am back in Minneapolis, but here, the sun was already shining. That’s when I had to disconnect from Central Standard Time and let jet lag sort things out.

Lisbon’s Humberto Delgado Airport was buzzing with activity. The Uber pick-up is an underground garage of chaos. People, luggage, noise and horn-honking cars everywhere. It took a long time to get out of the airport.

Lisbon is a city paved with fancy tiles and history. If a city could be effortlessly cool without trying, Lisbon would be it.

After three flights of airplane food it was time to give our taste buds a proper welcome to Portugal and the family owned Dois Arcos did not disappoint.

We had barely settled into our seats when plates of cheese, bread and cod coquettes magically appeared — like Portugal’s way of saying, “Relax, you’re among friends and you won’t be leaving hungry.”

We wandered the streets of Lisbon and stumbled into an open-air market with merchants offering traditional street fare, beverages plus local goods.

In the center of the square, Praça da Figueira, is an equestrian statue representing King John I. It is part of the Lisbon Baxia, the area of the city reurbanized after the 1755 Lisbon earthquake.

Portugal isn’t just the world’s biggest cork producer — it’s basically the cork capital of the universe. From wine stoppers to handbags, shoes and even umbrellas, the Portuguese have turned tree bark into an art form. And since cork trees can live for over 200 years, they’ve got sustainability mastered, proving that being eco-friendly can also be effortlessly stylish.

We wandered back to our accommodations at the Lisbon Lounge. This place is very special — the owner, Paul Bell, is the son of my lifelong friend Diane. The Lisbon Lounge Hostel is perfectly placed — close to shops, restaurants, and just about everything else you didn’t know you needed, making it the ideal launchpad for exploring.

Sophia made us an awesome concoction called Amêndoa Amarga which combines bitter almond liqueur and a mix of the juice of a freshly squeezed lemon, a lime and two ice cubes. It had the heavenly smell of almonds and a very pleasant sweet, strong almond flavor.

And with that, it’s time to wrap up this marathon of a travel day. Join us tomorrow as we uncover the mysteries of the Shrine of Fátima. Until then, boa noite and sweet dreams from Portugal!

I will be catching a plane today along with my ‘sole’ sister and longtime friend Theresa. Join us as we walk, talk, eat, think & drink our way up the coast of Portugal and into Spain.

We have become seasoned (and seasonal) walkers since our first adventure in 2017. Living in Minnesota makes it a challenge to get your steps in during the winter months. Our Camino accomplishments are summarized below and documented throughout this blog.

2021 Camino Frances Maseta: About 100 miles from Burgos to Leon. In 2017 we skipped the Maseta segment of Camino Frances to have a timely arrival in Santiago. We often pondered what we missed and just had to find out. Afterward, we flew to the island of Majorca for a few days before heading home.

2019 Camino Inglés: 60 miles walked from A Coruna to Santiago. In addition, we spent a couple weeks as volunteer hosts at an Albuergue in Ribadiso.

2018 Camino Finisterre: 130 miles walked from Santiago to Finisterre to Muxia and back to Santiago.

2017 Francais: 550 miles walked from St. Jean Pied ‘d Port, France through the Pyrenees to Spain and on to Santiago.

The European Camino Network